25 Row Mocal Oil Cooler Installed!
08-25-2003, 07:38 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 629
With my car going through a bit of unscheduled downtime, I took the time to install a 25 row Mocal oil cooler (235 series) and run it in series with the stock driver's side oil cooler. The Mocal is positioned in such a way that the entire front duct in my FEED II front end is filled, even utilizing the small duct below the main oil cooler duct. There's about 1/8" gap between the front of the oil cooler and the main cooler duct which eliminates the need for an additional duct connecting the fascia's opening to the front of the oil cooler. Essentially not a single row is wasted. So if you have a FEED front end, get the 25 row. It's a perfect fit.
Eventually I'll upgrade the driver's side as well. I am using a Mocal thermostat along with the stock thermostat imbedded in the OEM oil cooler.
Here's a list of parts, all of which I purchased from www.batinc.net.
Mocal 235 series 25 row oil cooler, 10AN ports
Mocal thermostat, 10AN in/out
10ft. of 10AN braided line
(2) 18mmx1.5 to 10AN adapters (these go in the front cover AND the oil pedestal)
(2)22mmx1.5 to 10AN adapters (Only need one if you're using the stock line back to the oil filter pedestal) which fit into the stock oil cooler at the thermostat. If you upgrade the line back to the filter pedestal, you'll use one on each port (you'll also need about 5ft. more braided line)
(5) 10AN straight fittings (three for the Mocal Thermostat, one for the stock oil cooler)
(3) 90 degree 10AN fittings, 2 for the Mocal cooler, one for the Mocal thermostat
(1) 60 degree 10AN for the oil filter pedestal
(1) XRP brand TIGHT 90 degree 10AN female to male, pn#920510 (from front cover adapter)
(1)10AN female to male adapter (for above fitting, allows for more clearance in front cover region)
One option, and given a choice, I would order an 18mm banjo to 10AN fitting for the front cover. They do make them but it takes a while as they come from Asia. Think two weeks and you can reuse the stock banjo bolt. Offers stock clearance which is otherwise tight due to the stock oil cooler line and a/c compressor.
The brackets were hand-made out of 1/8" extruded aluminum and stainless bolts. Rubber isolators in key locations, every nut has loctite red on it. All four corners of the cooler are supported by brackets and it's EXTREMELY ridged. Ideally forged steel would be better as aluminum can crack over time due to vibration (hence the rubber isolators).
Just for schematics, the oil flows out of the front cover, into the driver's side oil cooler and back into the engine via the oil filter pedestal. It's ideal to run another thermostat as you can blow a Mocal or Setrab with cold oil pumping through it. Additionally, you're lengthening warm-up which is not a good idea with a rotary.
Here's a pic:
Eventually I'll upgrade the driver's side as well. I am using a Mocal thermostat along with the stock thermostat imbedded in the OEM oil cooler.
Here's a list of parts, all of which I purchased from www.batinc.net.
Mocal 235 series 25 row oil cooler, 10AN ports
Mocal thermostat, 10AN in/out
10ft. of 10AN braided line
(2) 18mmx1.5 to 10AN adapters (these go in the front cover AND the oil pedestal)
(2)22mmx1.5 to 10AN adapters (Only need one if you're using the stock line back to the oil filter pedestal) which fit into the stock oil cooler at the thermostat. If you upgrade the line back to the filter pedestal, you'll use one on each port (you'll also need about 5ft. more braided line)
(5) 10AN straight fittings (three for the Mocal Thermostat, one for the stock oil cooler)
(3) 90 degree 10AN fittings, 2 for the Mocal cooler, one for the Mocal thermostat
(1) 60 degree 10AN for the oil filter pedestal
(1) XRP brand TIGHT 90 degree 10AN female to male, pn#920510 (from front cover adapter)
(1)10AN female to male adapter (for above fitting, allows for more clearance in front cover region)
One option, and given a choice, I would order an 18mm banjo to 10AN fitting for the front cover. They do make them but it takes a while as they come from Asia. Think two weeks and you can reuse the stock banjo bolt. Offers stock clearance which is otherwise tight due to the stock oil cooler line and a/c compressor.
The brackets were hand-made out of 1/8" extruded aluminum and stainless bolts. Rubber isolators in key locations, every nut has loctite red on it. All four corners of the cooler are supported by brackets and it's EXTREMELY ridged. Ideally forged steel would be better as aluminum can crack over time due to vibration (hence the rubber isolators).
Just for schematics, the oil flows out of the front cover, into the driver's side oil cooler and back into the engine via the oil filter pedestal. It's ideal to run another thermostat as you can blow a Mocal or Setrab with cold oil pumping through it. Additionally, you're lengthening warm-up which is not a good idea with a rotary.
Here's a pic:
08-25-2003, 07:40 PM
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 629
Compare to the stock cooler....if you're running a single turbo, oil fed only, w/a touring/PEP/Base, it'd be a REALLY good idea to upgrade with the addition of another oil cooler on the passenger's side. Not sure what the cost was off hand for everything, somewhere just north of $500 but money well spent.
08-25-2003, 07:47 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Michel, what model do you have, r1,base, touring?
What I'm getting at is did you already have existing plumbing for the 2nd oil cooler or did you have to plumb all the new stuff in?
If so what did you have to do and was it a pita or what?>
Looks like a killer setup BTW,
Thanks for the post.
What I'm getting at is did you already have existing plumbing for the 2nd oil cooler or did you have to plumb all the new stuff in?
If so what did you have to do and was it a pita or what?>
Looks like a killer setup BTW,
Thanks for the post.
08-25-2003, 07:57 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 629
I have a 95 PEP model, think touring w/o the Bose :-) That means none of the additional lines are there. Once I had all the materials and had a few hours to sit down and mount everything, it took me about 5 hours including bracket fab time. I had a big cutoff wheel mounted on a table saw which made cutting the aluminum and braided hose no work at all. Took me about 1.5 hours to make all the hoses and attach the fittings.
It really wasn't too much of a PITA. I dunno, for me it was sort of fun. I'd make one bracket, get it positioned just right, mount the front end (well, just hold it up there EXACTLY in position) and see where things needed to be moved. Once I had the top two brackets done, the rest was a breeze. I really wish I had an aluminum machine shop to play around in as I could really whittle up some neat brackets. I do have to thank Compact Car Performance for allowing me use of their lift/garage space to get the work done. Would have taken longer without the lift when examining fitment. I did most of the work on the ground however. Most of the new fittings/braided hose is simple to put together. It'll be a cold day in hell if it leaks. Pretty solid stuff (XRP, Earl's Aeroquip) For the ultimate setup, use the Aeroquip Starlite hose and black anodized fittings. MUCH more expensive but half the weight. I still have to do the final positioning of the thermostat and use clamps on all the hoses to keep them isolated and from rubbing through stuff. I need the engine in for the final fitment however and that seems to be about a week off.
It really wasn't too much of a PITA. I dunno, for me it was sort of fun. I'd make one bracket, get it positioned just right, mount the front end (well, just hold it up there EXACTLY in position) and see where things needed to be moved. Once I had the top two brackets done, the rest was a breeze. I really wish I had an aluminum machine shop to play around in as I could really whittle up some neat brackets. I do have to thank Compact Car Performance for allowing me use of their lift/garage space to get the work done. Would have taken longer without the lift when examining fitment. I did most of the work on the ground however. Most of the new fittings/braided hose is simple to put together. It'll be a cold day in hell if it leaks. Pretty solid stuff (XRP, Earl's Aeroquip) For the ultimate setup, use the Aeroquip Starlite hose and black anodized fittings. MUCH more expensive but half the weight. I still have to do the final positioning of the thermostat and use clamps on all the hoses to keep them isolated and from rubbing through stuff. I need the engine in for the final fitment however and that seems to be about a week off.
08-25-2003, 08:07 PM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 629
Ok there are two banjo bolts...one in the front cover, one in the oil filter pedestal. For the oil filter pedestal, you use the 18mmx1.5 to 10AN adapter (male/male) plug and then fit a 60 degree bend 10AN fitting (female to female).
For the front cover, you use the other male/male 18mmx1.5 to 10AN adapter and then fit that TIGHT bend XRP 90 degree 10AN fitting (female to male). That replaces the banjo bolt there.
So from the front cover, the line runs to the Mocal thermostat. If the oil temp is up to spec, it'll pass through the thermostat and into the left port of the mocal oil cooler. Oil exits out the right side of the cooler and back into the Mocal thermostat, out the thermostat and to the stock oil cooler, entering on the furthest right port (if you're looking at it from the front that is, fittings are on the back side), out the other side of the oil cooler and into the stock line leading back to the filter pedestal. Now, you can choose to replace that line with a braided assembly. I didn't have a second 22mm adapter so I just skipped it for the time being.
For the front cover, you use the other male/male 18mmx1.5 to 10AN adapter and then fit that TIGHT bend XRP 90 degree 10AN fitting (female to male). That replaces the banjo bolt there.
So from the front cover, the line runs to the Mocal thermostat. If the oil temp is up to spec, it'll pass through the thermostat and into the left port of the mocal oil cooler. Oil exits out the right side of the cooler and back into the Mocal thermostat, out the thermostat and to the stock oil cooler, entering on the furthest right port (if you're looking at it from the front that is, fittings are on the back side), out the other side of the oil cooler and into the stock line leading back to the filter pedestal. Now, you can choose to replace that line with a braided assembly. I didn't have a second 22mm adapter so I just skipped it for the time being.
08-25-2003, 08:12 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Okinawa, Japan
Posts: 4,928
I just put my setrab 25 row in as well. Ran it to the american d/s oil cooler and got rid of my dual oil coolers all together. I also put a fan on the back of the 25 row that turns on when the radiator fans turn on. Oil temps are 10 degrees BELOW my water temp(normally 10 degrees above water temp).
If you want to add one to the existing single oil cooler, you'll need to replace one of the oil cooler lines with an 18mm/-10an adapter(for the engine) and an adapter that bolts to the stock oil cooler. You'll also need 2m or more of -10 and 2 -1 AN end fittings.
If you want to add one to the existing single oil cooler, you'll need to replace one of the oil cooler lines with an 18mm/-10an adapter(for the engine) and an adapter that bolts to the stock oil cooler. You'll also need 2m or more of -10 and 2 -1 AN end fittings.
