Dave can't you cap the silver line?





https://www.nopistons.com/forums/upl...1054234364.jpg

No yyou should keep that.

the guy who did my rebuild and non-seq. set up did it some old school way... so now I'm trying to fix it. I gave him the full set of block off plates but am still noticing a actulator or two still connected, so I am just capping them off for now. I have everything pretty much done the way you guys have it but he took the lines for the primary OMP and secondary OMP (which I T'ed together) and ran them to something below and just left of the primary intake tube. Also, he has the primary intake tube completely capped off?? I know I just run the OMP's to the primary intake tube but do I just cap off whatever he was using?? What was he using?? What goes on the second nipple of the primary intake tube?? Please save me!!

Don't know what he was using.



The second nipple goes to the metal line that runs on top of the motor and connects to the oil filler. Look at the silver line in the pic Scrub posted...



Dave, you have a rainbow of vac line under your hood https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png



the only actuator you need is the WG. That is just below and left of the pri inlet. are you sure you followed his OMP lines correctly...maybe that was the WG SV line???



Good Luck,



Dub

he's got everything T'ed together... the FPR, both OMP's, and a hose to the LIM are all connected together. Then he T'ed a hose from under the fuel rail with a hose connected on the nipple facing down like its suppose to but then has a third hose running down underneath and to the left of the primary intake tube were its T'ed again running two more hoses to whatever is down there (WG??). And, like I said, the primary intake tube is capped off... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

Sorry about my first post... the OMP lines do NOT run down below the intake tube. I clarified in my second post, hopefully. Where is the line for the WG suppose to go?? I am still not sure if I'm losing efficiency of the turbos spooling w/ everything sharing a vacuum line. As you can tell this is one of my very few pathetic attempts on working on my car. You guys make it look so easy... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png

bro it is easy.



follow the diagram.



make sure, if you dont have a boost controller, that you keep the turbo hooked up to the wastegate control solenoid or ur turbos wont operate

I can't follow this...



how many solenoids do you have still?



You can ditch the FPR SV and run a line from the FPR straight to the LIM nipple facing the firewall.



The OMP lines...T them and run to the pri inlet, as for the other pri inlet nipple read my other post.



IF you don't have a boost controller...you use the WG S.V. looking at the UIM it's one of the two mounted to the front...the one on the right, label I in the diagram below.



You'll get through this... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

I have a Profec B SPEC II sitting here which I will throw on today... so all I have to do is follow the pics and I can bypass whatever else he hooked up. You would never guess that I've had this car for over 5 years, how sad this is the first time I'm actually understanding whats going on under the hood https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif .

any hints on installing the boost controller (before I rip out these extra vacuum lines and do it correctly)??

and you'd never guess I've had mine for a few months... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif

what vacuum lines do I tap "T" into when installing the boost controller??

Sorry dude, I have not been back to this thread till now.

I wasa busy getting married and taking honeymoons and vacation https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png



Ok installing the Profec B is pretty simple.

Find a spot on the passenger side of the engine bay to mount the black solinoid box.

Then you take the "in" nipple on the box and run it to the pipe on the turbo as shown here. Run it where I have the blue line. (really it doesnt matter which though)

Then run the "out" line to the wastegate actuator shown here and cap off the other side of the actuator as show.



Also take note that you will need to remove the 4" black vacum hose with the "pill" in it. That pill will now be replaced with your profec B actuator. SAVE THE ORIGINAL LINE WITH THE PILL!! you never know when you might want to put it back on.



Hope that was not to late to be of some help.

-Dave

Also I wanted to say thanks for making me go look at my car. I found my problem with over boosting. I was all set and tunned for 15 psi when I left for rotorfest then on the way back I was way over boosting.

While gettng the pics for you I see that my wastegate actuator nipple cap has dry rotted and broken. Looks like I should do some vacum line and a bolt this time. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png



Thanks for helping me find my problem:)



See it?

Just a quick one here, why go to twin non sequential why not just fit a single? i always thought the best idea of twin turbo's was the sequential setup to loose the low down lag? Just asking cause my current car doesnt come on line till 4500 although with a nice kick, This is why im swapping to rotary power, acceleration is everything and lag is annoying.

Single is expensive and twin non-seq is a good holding point until the change, in my opinion. As far as switching from seq to non-seq, most of the vacuum hoses can be yanked. That is my reason for wanting to make the switch! After that I hope it holds me over until I can make the switch to a single.

The best reason for going non sequential is to get more a predictable, consistant boost pattern without spending big bucks. Ideally we would all love a single turbo. But if you have a **** ton of bolt ons and are getting crazy boost spikes at transition 4500k rpm and you want to get the boost to just sit at say 14 psi. You can get a cheap manual boost controller, go non sequentail and viola! You have predictable boost. Non sequential engine bay clean up is a **** load better than stock but still not as good as a single.

It's really a nice transition from stock turbos to single. I would suggest that anyone owning a modded Fd drive the stock sequentials for a year then do non sequenatial for a while. When the 99 twins I bought two years ago crap out I'll doa single also, but until then Im having fun with what I have.

okay backing the bus up......the silver line on the turbo inlet pipe....should be capped? It goes to the bottom of the oil filler neck. My car burns an excessive amount of oil....and im starting to think this is why....but I don't want to remove it if im not supposed to. When I blip the throttle smoke comes out the exhaust sometimes....blueish smoke that is.

That's blow-by. you should run it to an oil catch can

does anyone have a picture of where that silver line connects to the oil filler neck?? I just noticed that my silver line is not connected to the turbo inlet pipe or the filler neck... its just suspended there, doing nothing. Now there is oil all over by the oil filler neck and under the oil filter. The guy who did my rebuild really slacked... this is starting to get annoying.



TIA, Brett

I've heard theres a quick way of trying NS by removing some lines. Anyone know how to? Just desperate to try it before I embark on the big project?





Thanks

The poor mans non sequential.



Step 1.

Remove the turbo control actuator and plug the lines.

Step 2.

Wire the flapper door open (towards the front of the car)

Step3.

"T" the blow off and charge relief valve lines together, plug the remaining line that runs from the charge relief valve to the lower intake manifold

Step4.

Remove the two lines to the charge control valve and plug the remaining lines.

(one from the y pipe to the charge control valve & one from the LIM to the charge control valve)

Step5.

Remove the Pressure tank & plug the lines to the precontrol solinoid.

You should have a total of seven (hehe) lines plugged

Two off the LIM, one off the "Y" pipe, two off the hardpipe and two from the TCA (turbo control actuator)



-Dave https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

I have a Pettit Stage 3 ECU. Im already running the simplified Non Seq.

But before I put on the Block Off Plates.. can someone tell me if Ill have to do all those Resistors for the disconnected solenoids?

thanks





Oh and FD3Boost, nice site. Waiting for those How Tos to come alive tho!

Yea you definitely need the resistors.

Thanks and I know I know my how to-s have been waiting to get finished for a long ass time. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

I finaly finished the Jerry-rigged non sequential how to.

If anyone is interested it's all ready for you..



http://www.fd3boost.com/Non_sequential_HT_Page.php

Ok is there anything wrong with doing the Jerry-rigged version instead of the full non-seq???

Can you list the pro's and con's for me plz.

Thanks!

well the jerry rigged way is reversable, and you do not need to buy resisitors or block off plates.



The full version allows you to completely remove all of crap from the engine bay though which you cannot do with the jerry rigged version. But the full version is not reversable. As you will cut out the flapper door and not just wire it back. If you've never tried it go with the jerry rigged version. If you like it then finish off the job and go with the fulll version.

Martin threw this link my way.





http://www.mantissaracing.com/Mantissa%20R...tion_switch.htm



Seems like a pretty neat set up.

It is using a toggle to switch back and forth between sequential and non..



I didn't read through it to pick it apart;)

Of coarse this is pointless if you are looking to clean up the engine bay some.

this mod will have the switch that cant be moved, it can only stay by the ecu.... however, there is a way to use a relay so you can position the switch remotely. (trying to find out how to do that.

OK, is the mustard colored line just blocked off? (went to the pressure chamber before) (off the Y pipe that just dead ends)

Thanks!



http://onedrive.utc.edu/oneNet/NetSt...imagefinal.jpg

Yes cap that off.

Thanks! Sorry the pic didn't work.

wondering what the hell to do with the charcoal canister line thats left over.. on my old one i just decided to cut the line all the way back at the fuel tank.. works the same.. just vents to atmosphere..



anyone else got any other ideas?

I would keep it. Less fumey smells.

I plug it with some vac hose and a bolt.

No need for resistors if I'm running a Power FC correct?

Just unplug 'em and leave the plug hanging?

Thanks!

Not sure but if your car gets all crazy on you like dyin battery etc.. then get the resistors .

Sorry guys but i got rid of my website so the nice how to with pix is no more.



Sorry...