Abs Removal, Linelock Install Instructions
06-12-2003, 05:52 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: NJ
Posts: 4,981
This is the complete “how-to” on removing your ABS system, and installing a brake balancer and line loc kit. ABS is a valuable safty feature in any car. Do this mod at your own risk. I am not responsible for any mishaps you may have!!!.
The parts list:
Wilwood brake balancer (jegs part#950-260-2220)
Line lock solenoid (jegs part#555-63000)
Line lock install kit (jegs part#555-63005)(includes standard lines, fittings and “t”)
51” metric brake line (1)
8” metric brake line(2 or 3)
12” metric brake line(2 or 3))
(1) 10mm brake line unions
14” metric brake line
Tools required:
10mm line wrench
3/8 line wrench
14mm wrench
socket set with extensions
tube bender
tube cutter
double flare took kit(IMPORTANT BUY FROM SEARS OR BETTER QUALITY,SNAP ON, ETC.)
Removal of the ABS:
Remove all brake lines from the ABS system, then there are 4 12mm nuts holding the ABS unit to the car, after that unplug the 2 plugs and remove the ABS unit from the car. Next remove all the brake lines from the master cylinder , and along the firewall. When you are finished you will have one line coming out of each front wheel well, and one line to the left and below the brake booster for the rear.
How this will all come together:
The RX-7 uses 10mm metric lines, while the line lock, and balancer valve use standard 3/16 thread fittings. You will need to make some custom lines with one metric, and one standard fitting on each line.
USE ALL PICTURES AS A REFERANCE ON WHERE TO MOUNT COMPONENTS AND HOW TO BEND LINES!
Front Brakes:
Take a 12” metric line, and any of the standard lines .cut the end off of each. Slip the standard fitting onto the metric line and flare. Screw the metric end into the master cylinder and the standard end into the IN PORT of the line lock using the right angle adaptor supplied with the kit. Next take a standard line, one end to the line lock out(again using a 90 degree adaptor) the other to the brake “T”. cut the fitting off the line sticking out of the left front wheel, put on a standard fitting, flare and attach to the brake “T”. Add the 10mm union to the line on the right wheel well. Attach the 51” metric line, run it across the firewall, cut, add a standard fitting, flare, and attach to the “T”. THAT’S IT FRONT IS DONE!!
Rear Brakes:
Cut the end off the 14” metric line and add a standard fitting, and flare. The metric end goes to the master cylinder, the standard end to the brake balancer (IN) port. Next take a 12” metric line cut, add standard fitting, and flare. Standard fitting goes to the balancer out, metric fitting goes to the connector near the brake booster for the rear brakes. DONE!!!
Bleed in the following sequence, RR,LR,RF,LF
CHECK FOR LEAKS!!
A few notes on this project.
As much as I tried it’s hard to say exactly how many of what length lines you will need, be safe, buy extra and just return what you do not use.
If you are not comfortable using a flaring tool have someone else do it. Making brake lines is a serious task, a leaking brake system can lead to accident or death!
Once again, I am not responsable if you kill your silly ***!!!
Jay
The parts list:
Wilwood brake balancer (jegs part#950-260-2220)
Line lock solenoid (jegs part#555-63000)
Line lock install kit (jegs part#555-63005)(includes standard lines, fittings and “t”)
51” metric brake line (1)
8” metric brake line(2 or 3)
12” metric brake line(2 or 3))
(1) 10mm brake line unions
14” metric brake line
Tools required:
10mm line wrench
3/8 line wrench
14mm wrench
socket set with extensions
tube bender
tube cutter
double flare took kit(IMPORTANT BUY FROM SEARS OR BETTER QUALITY,SNAP ON, ETC.)
Removal of the ABS:
Remove all brake lines from the ABS system, then there are 4 12mm nuts holding the ABS unit to the car, after that unplug the 2 plugs and remove the ABS unit from the car. Next remove all the brake lines from the master cylinder , and along the firewall. When you are finished you will have one line coming out of each front wheel well, and one line to the left and below the brake booster for the rear.
How this will all come together:
The RX-7 uses 10mm metric lines, while the line lock, and balancer valve use standard 3/16 thread fittings. You will need to make some custom lines with one metric, and one standard fitting on each line.
USE ALL PICTURES AS A REFERANCE ON WHERE TO MOUNT COMPONENTS AND HOW TO BEND LINES!
Front Brakes:
Take a 12” metric line, and any of the standard lines .cut the end off of each. Slip the standard fitting onto the metric line and flare. Screw the metric end into the master cylinder and the standard end into the IN PORT of the line lock using the right angle adaptor supplied with the kit. Next take a standard line, one end to the line lock out(again using a 90 degree adaptor) the other to the brake “T”. cut the fitting off the line sticking out of the left front wheel, put on a standard fitting, flare and attach to the brake “T”. Add the 10mm union to the line on the right wheel well. Attach the 51” metric line, run it across the firewall, cut, add a standard fitting, flare, and attach to the “T”. THAT’S IT FRONT IS DONE!!
Rear Brakes:
Cut the end off the 14” metric line and add a standard fitting, and flare. The metric end goes to the master cylinder, the standard end to the brake balancer (IN) port. Next take a 12” metric line cut, add standard fitting, and flare. Standard fitting goes to the balancer out, metric fitting goes to the connector near the brake booster for the rear brakes. DONE!!!
Bleed in the following sequence, RR,LR,RF,LF
CHECK FOR LEAKS!!
A few notes on this project.
As much as I tried it’s hard to say exactly how many of what length lines you will need, be safe, buy extra and just return what you do not use.
If you are not comfortable using a flaring tool have someone else do it. Making brake lines is a serious task, a leaking brake system can lead to accident or death!
Once again, I am not responsable if you kill your silly ***!!!
Jay
06-14-2003, 05:57 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Thanks for the write up on that Jay,
How have the brakes felt thus far Jon?
Is it difficult getting the brakes "balanced"?
Well if there are no other gains from removing the ABS, then just the open shot you now have to the wire harness is a definite plus. I am thinking of all the other parts I could mount there instead.
I think you guys have persueded me into making this one of my next modifications.
How have the brakes felt thus far Jon?
Is it difficult getting the brakes "balanced"?
Well if there are no other gains from removing the ABS, then just the open shot you now have to the wire harness is a definite plus. I am thinking of all the other parts I could mount there instead.
I think you guys have persueded me into making this one of my next modifications.
11-11-2003, 07:35 PM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: NJ
Posts: 4,981
Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Nov 10 2003, 08:33 PM
What did you guys use as a lever for the line lock?
How does it hook up in the cabin?
Also get some pics back up please. I am about to do this one.
How does it hook up in the cabin?
Also get some pics back up please. I am about to do this one.
I'll re-up the pictures