Ok, so i took my car to the shop i used to work at, late night to change the oil/filter. And tighten up my downpipe bolts.(they were a little loose) So i finish up, make sure its all ok.. fill up the rad. with coolant and distilled water. Everything is fine, car warms up like usual, i start to head home, and everything is cool.. then i get on it, just before my exit, i hit .70 bar and i hear a pop.. car starts to slow down.. i try to give it some gas.. nothing.. so i let it turn off... coast into a gas station trying to wonder wtf happend. I changed the plugs hoping it was them again, but this time when i pulled them i noticed the two front plugs looked like they ran a little lean (one corner of each plug was slightly white) The car turns over, and cranks and everything, but just dont turn on. i have a fuel cutoff switch, an i thought maybe it was flooded, cut the fuel, cranked it, turn ed the fuel back on, an still nothing. What could this be? Im thinking its something fuel related, maybe a fuel pump or bad line or something?.. someone help.. i need this car running, since its the only thing i have to drive.. and i have to work on thursday!
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Do you have compression?
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yeah.. car turns over like it normally does just before actually turning on.. but it really sounds like its not getting fuel..
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test your fuel pump, replace your fuel filter, check for fuel leaks at the rail.
i dont know of any fuel part that would cause a loud pop when it fails other then the engine itself. kevin. |
Why do some people go around in denial of their engine blowing?
Lets see...You boost, you hear a pop, then you have no power. Look at the plugs and they show signs of running lean. Car cranks but wont start... Hmmm.... Bueller?...Bueller?... Id compression test it if I were you. Even if your fuel pump failed and its currently not getting fuel, it probably knocked all to hell when that last bit of gas trickled out of those injectors. |
id look for a popped off hose too. i blew off the bov hose (the big one) and the car she no run. and besides even with a blown motor it should still start
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im about to go do a compression test. Any tips on what to do on it? I know im supposed to check the two top plugs and disconnect the fuel pump.. anything else?
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Originally Posted by Benny' date='Jan 28 2004, 04:12 PM
im about to go do a compression test. Any tips on what to do on it? I know im supposed to check the two top plugs and disconnect the fuel pump.. anything else?
Yep, time for another FD you blew a motor in a turbo II .... and you think this is the answer? |
meh, thats the old avatar foo... just havent changed it. whats that got to do with my problem anyhow? Contructive replys only please.
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Originally Posted by Benny' date='Jan 28 2004, 04:56 PM
meh, thats the old avatar foo... just havent changed it. whats that got to do with my problem anyhow? Contructive replys only please.
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Check the intercooler hoses. Mine did the same thing when my IC hose-clamp needed to be replaced.
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did you hear a big gush of bov sound....or did it just pop
i know when my BOV pops off sometimes, stock hose on the alum pipe, itll make a super loud bov noise, but itll still run... a vacuum leak from the IC system shouldnt stall the car out....itll just have no IC pressure and no boost.... ive driven with my IC off before..but not boost i really think the engine sounds blown |
A vacuum leak (popped hose) from the IC will make the car stall. How do I know? First-hand experience.
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Originally Posted by UniqueTII' date='Jan 28 2004, 05:07 PM
A vacuum leak (popped hose) from the IC will make the car stall. How do I know? First-hand experience.
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Both the AFM and ECU are different for the S5. Maybe that has something to do with it?
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Originally Posted by UniqueTII' date='Jan 28 2004, 05:10 PM
Both the AFM and ECU are different for the S5. Maybe that has something to do with it?
well back to the topic at hand....compression results? |
1 Attachment(s)
i did the quicky test, both rotors have the big "whoosh" noise. Im trying to do this quick since it will be dark soon. I removed and reinstalled the intercooler, and all is fine.. EXCEPT this...
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1 Attachment(s)
another pic
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should be 3 "whooshes' on each rotor.
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Hello mr. vac leak
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Originally Posted by phinsup' date='Jan 28 2004, 04:55 PM
should be 3 "whooshes' on each rotor.
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yeah thatll do it
thats for the aws system...turn car on goes to 3k etc you gotta keep that unit electrically plugged in...but you can cap off the holes the hoses go to on the IC and UIM |
does anyone know what part it is, so i can start hunting it down to see if thats the problem?
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Originally Posted by Benny' date='Jan 28 2004, 05:59 PM
does anyone know what part it is, so i can start hunting it down to see if thats the problem?
you gotta keep that unit electrically plugged in...but you can cap off the holes the hoses go to on the IC and UIM |
its still plugged in electronically. But would that be the cause of my problem?
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yes
it's a vacuum leak hello? |
ok, i understand that. But whats the exact name of that part so that i can go buy another.
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Originally Posted by Benny' date='Jan 28 2004, 06:01 PM
its still plugged in electronically. But would that be the cause of my problem?
thats for the aws system...turn car on goes to 3k etc you gotta keep that unit electrically plugged in...but you can cap off the holes the hoses go to on the IC and UIM ******* cap off the nipples on the IC and UIM....keep it plugged into the harness |
Originally Posted by Benny' date='Jan 28 2004, 06:05 PM
ok, i understand that. But whats the exact name of that part so that i can go buy another.
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The nipple is what broke off, though.
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cap @ IC
cap @ manifold leave the solenoid all by itself there with nothing but the harness connected you won't have the 3K fast idle @ cold start like you started in gear. and if you cap it right you won't have a vacuum leak ******* your air metering up making your car run like ass. |
Originally Posted by pengaru' date='Jan 28 2004, 06:12 PM
cap @ IC
cap @ manifold leave the solenoid all by itself there with nothing but the harness connected you won't have the 3K fast idle @ cold start like you started in gear. and if you cap it right you won't have a vacuum leak ******* your air metering up making your car run like ass. you gotta keep that unit electrically plugged in...but you can cap off the holes the hoses go to on the IC and UIM ******* cap off the nipples on the IC and UIM....keep it plugged into the harness |
yeah, just mine didnt have such a belligerent tone to it https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/ohmy.png
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Maybe he's using the ignore feature.
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ignore me = lose help ... ok! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683827.gif
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umm why keep it plugged in mike?
mines completely bypassed no connection no nothing. cap the two places the hose runs to and throw out the aws solenoid, as i doubt its cheap to buy a new one. you dont really need it, you live in texas. kevin. |
Originally Posted by teknics' date='Jan 28 2004, 06:55 PM
umm why keep it plugged in mike?
mines completely bypassed no connection no nothing. cap the two places the hose runs to and throw out the aws solenoid, as i doubt its cheap to buy a new one. you dont really need it, you live in texas. kevin. i removed mine when i got my haltech so i didnt know if it was an error with stock ecu or not |
sorry freestyle. it didnt seem like you named the part.. just what it does. the nipple broke off, but i went and bought some plastic glue and its settling right now, i already capped both ends off, just waiting for it to dry, if it starts, then i know what to go buy. takin a lunch break for now
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If you plan on capping off all of the lines, you can just fill the nipple hole (ha, nipple hole) with silicone...probably.
Discuss. |
Originally Posted by Benny' date='Jan 28 2004, 06:57 PM
sorry freestyle. it didnt seem like you named the part.. just what it does. the nipple broke off, but i went and bought some plastic glue and its settling right now, i already capped both ends off, just waiting for it to dry, if it starts, then i know what to go buy. takin a lunch break for now
but like a buncha people said you dont need the piece just unbolt the drum cylinder looking piece frmo the UIM and take it off the electrical harness, disconnect the two hoses coming from UIM and IC ... and cap the remaining nipples then youll have no more annoying start ups and itll be normal again with no leaks |
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