working on my 5 lug swap... and...
#1
after removing the little hub cap, cotter pin, and the nut cover... i came to something curious... the nut that holds the hub on was finger tight
i was quite surprised cause if i remember right... your supposed to use something to keep the hub from spinning... and i didnt need to...
shouldnt that nut be at least a little tighter?
i was quite surprised cause if i remember right... your supposed to use something to keep the hub from spinning... and i didnt need to...
shouldnt that nut be at least a little tighter?
#2
Someone told me to put the wrench on the nut, and jump on the handle. So that's what I did. And broke my ratchet. But that sucker was tight! There's also an indentation in the axle shaft, you're supposed to hammer the thin part of the axle nut into the indentation, so it can't back off.
#3
Originally Posted by Baldy' post='832171' date='Aug 9 2006, 04:14 PM
Someone told me to put the wrench on the nut, and jump on the handle. So that's what I did. And broke my ratchet. But that sucker was tight! There's also an indentation in the axle shaft, you're supposed to hammer the thin part of the axle nut into the indentation, so it can't back off.
strange... wonder why mine came off so easliy....
also.. during the swap... do i need the dust shield also?
and another thing... should i plug the break line so the break fluid doesnt all leak out? what can i use to plug it?
#5
im just full of questions
tomorrow im gonna head to napa and pick up some stuff:
- vented rotors
- oem break pads
- spindle nut
- caliper rebuild kit
- high temp grease
- bearings (do i really need new bearings?)
- rubber break line
am i missing anything?
i want to make sure i do this right...
tomorrow im gonna head to napa and pick up some stuff:
- vented rotors
- oem break pads
- spindle nut
- caliper rebuild kit
- high temp grease
- bearings (do i really need new bearings?)
- rubber break line
am i missing anything?
i want to make sure i do this right...
#6
if you find that the price is right... i have these available.
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...howtopic=63390
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...howtopic=63390
#7
Originally Posted by silver86' post='832169' date='Aug 9 2006, 08:12 PM
after removing the little hub cap, cotter pin, and the nut cover... i came to something curious... the nut that holds the hub on was finger tight
i was quite surprised cause if i remember right... your supposed to use something to keep the hub from spinning... and i didnt need to...
shouldnt that nut be at least a little tighter?
Thats normal for the front hub. It uses tapered wheel bearings, and you only want to have enough pressure to eliminate play. If you overtighten it, it loads the bearing making the wheel hard to turn. The cotter key is there to keep the nut from backing off.
On the rears, the axle nut should be tight, and the edge of the nut pressed into the groove on the axle shaft. To remove, use a punch of similar to knock the edge of the nut back in place and Id recommend an impact gun.
#8
Originally Posted by BigTurbo74' post='832204' date='Aug 9 2006, 07:04 PM
if you find that the price is right... i have these available.
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...howtopic=63390
only need the rebuild kit..... i already have the 4 pot calipers... thats partly why im doing the swap....
and... i dont have an air compresser... ill have to use muscle to get the rear nuts off...
but everythings going as planned... took me an hour and a half to dissemble the passenger hub and brake... and about 20 mins to do the driver side...
tomorrow - buy the parts, and start dissembling the single pot 4 lug hubs on the other car
#9
Originally Posted by silver86' post='832209' date='Aug 9 2006, 11:15 PM
and... i dont have an air compresser... ill have to use muscle to get the rear nuts off...
a breaker bar with a little *** behind it should pop right off.