I just brought home my 91 na, last night. Previous owner said it has a new engine, but he couldn't get it to start, after the install. I personally, don't fully believe him.



After about 10 minutes of coaxing, with a brand-new battery in place, I've discovered that the engine only runs, if I keep the tach above 3K. Anything below that, and she sputters and dies. Engine seems to be very strong, from the sound of things... especially at the redline.

No coolant in the oil... no oil in the coolant... exhaust gasses smell fine for a car that's been sitting for three or four months. Lots of smoke, at first... but it's getting better, the more I run it.



I'm guessing it's an electrical problem... either the MAF, or the TPS. Either one is an easy fix, but I don't want to fix something that might not be broke. Perhaps even a bad ground. What do you guys think?



Does anyone else on NoPistons live near Ft. Sill, OK? There's beer in the fridge, and my wife is an excellent cook.

For now... it's SuperBowl Sunday, and my Bears are gonna win this one... so, not much with the 7 is getting done, today. Happy Game Day, all... hope to hear back, soon.



-J

basic **** will be search for vacume leaks adjust the tps, and set the timing after doing all the above then read through this thread for other thing that cause no idle http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=617450

id start with the timing and vacuum leaks.



you wont be able to exactly zero the timing, but you can get it close while cranking it, thats how jw's motor was lol.



kevin.

thanks for the quick replies.... I still need to know how many members are near my area. No sense in being part of an RX-7 club, if there's nobody to meet up with, and talk shop.



I'll try these little troubleshoots, and see what happens. I hope I don't need to take it in to a shop... most places know precisely dick about rotaries. I'm not trusting my new baby to a boinger-head.

thats the point of these forums technical support and im sure there is sombody around to help you out just look though your areas section good luck on your car and its really not hard to work on these yourself any info u need will be on here

youre in oklahoma? theres a bunch of guys from that area on these forums, look for info about the oklahoma state rotary BBQ...or something like that.



kevin.

ok..... I'm still calm, because I only paid 1000$ for a fairly clean 91....

But, why is my engine spraying a shitload of coolant, from just in front of the trans?

This started happening when I was trying to adjust the idle.



Coolant was topped off, oil level was fine...

Now, the temp guage won't work, and my oil pressure is over 110. Everything looked fine, a couple hours ago, and I haven't done anything stupid, like rev it too high, for too long.



If I'm fucked, it's no big deal... I can get a new shortblock for cheap. It'll be a pain in the ass... but it's not a huge issue, since I'm going JSpec, soon, anyway.

I think I need to have a talk with the guy who supposedly installed the new engine... cuz, I'm starting to really think that never happened, now.



70K miles on the clock... great Wankel's Ghost.... I don't get it.

is this an n/a? at 70k you should still have the original motor in there running stong if theres a reman the previous owner had to **** something up

Previous owner swears it's a new engine... he inherited the car from his older brother, or uncle... I forget which.

The NA's should be good until about 200K, if they aren't abused, right? I was worried about that, too, when he told me it had a new engine



I'm hoping it's just the heater hose.... no white smoke from the exhaust....

I'm confused... I've never had this happen to me, but I've heard of it, before.

you should be good there are 2 coolant hoses on the firwall the run to the heater core check them for leaks

I have a couple diagrams of exactly where those hoses are.

I've got big hands, and short, (sorta) thick arms.... this might be a bummer.

Turns out I'm a dumbass.... if I had inspected that heater hose, before starting the engine, I would have noticed that there was no hose clamp on it. The hose popped off, and showered my engine, windshield, and garage floor with Prestone.

Now, how do I get my oil pressure down? Oil level is topped-off.



Just as a clarification, however... an old buddy of mine who has only steered me wrong, a couple times, in my life, said that DexCool antifreeze will work fine, in a rotary. Before I go dumping this orange stuff in my radiator... is it safe?

dex cool does NOT MIX WITH ANY OTHER COOLANT.



and dex cool sucks dick.



stick with regular green 50/50 mix of water and ethylene glycol.



kevin.

Yeah, the red **** is ****. When mixed with the green stuff it turns into a sandy like gel, and closes off coolant passages, GM has a huge lawsuit against them right now, because of this bullshit.



NEVER USE IT IN ANY CAR!!

Good to know. Thanks.



Funny how it doesn't warn you about that, ANYWHERE on the ****** bottle.

Right now, the car is running on straight Prestone antifreeze, with no water. I think most of that crap got spewed out, during my little heater hose mishap... but, the weather is pretty consistently below 30, anyways.... so, I'll just keep the straight antifreeze going, for now.

yea prestone yellow is a good choice, it might already be mixed with water, check the bottle.



kevin.

I have to flush the radiator, first... I think it's for the best. Is there an easy way to do it? I've never done a rad flush, at home.



I took your advice, though.... yellow Prestone is going in, once I clean the system.



I'm prolly gonna check for vaccum leaks, this weekend. Got someone to give me a hand with that. I hope to God it's not the EGR valve. I've also got a new TPS and a new MAF on the way. A local guy is letting me try out the parts, to troubleshoot, before he tries to sell me anything. Good prices too... I think I'm gonna use this cat, a lot, in the near future.

i am having the same problem, my compression is fine,i have new AFM,it wont idle under 3k..please let me know what your problem is so i can check it on mine.cheers...

I have the peak brand extended life anti freeze in my car for over 10 years now.

rob i told you to get rid of your dexcool. its deadly. but youve been having good luck with it so maybe id just leave it alone.



meh.



kevin.

Absolutely.

Is your car an S4, or S5?

its a series four..i seem to keep thinking my tps is shot..my mechanic is a F*#*ing legand so he will hopefully have a look at it soon and find out what it is..ill keep you posted

The MAF is a piece of crap, on the S4.... that damnable flapper likes to stop working. My 88 GTU had that problem, before I blew the engine up.

you might not know but ill ask you anyway, do you know how to check if the TPS is faulty??does anyone know how to check this??

attach an ohm meter to it open the throttle plate slowly and the reading should change in order if it skips around then the tps is bad but i think theres other ways to check it look in the faq section there should be some good info in there or some one else can jump in and explain better

I just figured I'd replace the MAF, and if it still fails to run properly, I'll replace the TPS... if neither of those work, then I know it's a vaccum leak.

Seeing as how I have the resources to do this, before I pay for anything, I might as well do it.



What I really need to know how to do, is check for vaccum leaks. Because, other than visually inspecting every single individual hose, line, and passageway, for fraying, punctures, or tears, I'm not sure what to do.

take carb cleaner while the car is running and spray around if the idle jumps up where you sprayed thats the area of the leak but first i would replace all vacume hoses and intake manifold gaskets but if emissions dont concern you remove the rats nest and it will leave you with like 3 vac lines instead of the mess you probly have under the hood is makes life sooo much easier

its not dexcool, its peak extended life anti freeze, peak global to be exact

Well... if the car doesn't idle, in the first place, how am I going to do that?



Is there a write-up for removing the rat's nest, so I don't **** anything up?

I'm sure there's bypasses, and plugging that needs to be done. And, I wanted to block off the EGR, in the first place.

well the block off plate can be purchased at http://www.2751engineering.com/2751parts.html

i would recommend buying the kit and ill get you the write up in a sec

here is a god diagram i used ill see if i can find a good thread

http://www.rx7club.com/attachment.ph...hmentid=220344

I'm getting 404.... but, that's no big deal.



You've been nothing but helpful, from the first minute, dude. If we ever cross paths, I'll have to buy you a beer.

its no problem i have nothing better to do and if i was in your situation id want some help too so hears a main link for all the shyt you can get rid of. the rat nest removal is part of it just click on some of the words they're links https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...mp;hl=rats+nest

thank you i will try that..