What The Crap!?
12-21-2003, 02:13 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville KY 40299
Posts: 344
Originally Posted by djgiantrobot' date='Dec 20 2003, 08:54 PM
possibly the gear that engages the starter to the flywheel is stripped
12-21-2003, 08:29 PM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Caldwell, Idaho
Posts: 228
Turns out the starter was hot, and got stuck. A nice wrap from a screwdriver got it back running.... Here's my problem AGAIN... It'll idle for about 30 mins with the temp gauge about 3/4 of the way up...then it'll just shoot up almost to the top of the normal bracket... Here's the catch, the faster I go, or the higher the RPMs are, the cooler it gets... Last night when I let it idle, it was overheating...When I held the RPMs at about 4000 rpms, it slowly went back down to the middle of the normal bracket. After idling again, it slowly crept up... Then back down @ 4000 RPMs.......Wasn't aware you could cool an engine by revving the crap out of it...I'm really confused. I was told it might be my exhaust, because it's old and it's a little rusty. After my friend got his exhaust fixed, his seven quit overheating. I'm getting really pissed off cause I need my car, and I can't figure out what the hell's going on with my car. If any of you could help in any way possible, I'd be very appreciative......
12-21-2003, 08:47 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Central KY
Posts: 292
Originally Posted by rotary_revolution_0' date='Dec 21 2003, 06:29 PM
Turns out the starter was hot, and got stuck. A nice wrap from a screwdriver got it back running.... Here's my problem AGAIN... It'll idle for about 30 mins with the temp gauge about 3/4 of the way up...then it'll just shoot up almost to the top of the normal bracket... Here's the catch, the faster I go, or the higher the RPMs are, the cooler it gets... Last night when I let it idle, it was overheating...When I held the RPMs at about 4000 rpms, it slowly went back down to the middle of the normal bracket. After idling again, it slowly crept up... Then back down @ 4000 RPMs.......Wasn't aware you could cool an engine by revving the crap out of it...I'm really confused. I was told it might be my exhaust, because it's old and it's a little rusty. After my friend got his exhaust fixed, his seven quit overheating. I'm getting really pissed off cause I need my car, and I can't figure out what the hell's going on with my car. If any of you could help in any way possible, I'd be very appreciative......
I don't know if you have changed your thermostat yet but it sounds like it failed in the closed position (or in between opened and closed) or there is an obstruction or debris somewhere. What is happening when you rev your engine? = water pump is turning faster thus moving the water/coolant through out the engine and the cooling system faster and with greater force. There fore you might be clearing this obstruction or partially closed thermostat by sheer force at higher RPM. Good luck man it sux to be 7-less.
You should really consider flushing your radiator before installing a new MAZDA thermostat just so you can get a clear slate and take one more variable out of the equation.
12-22-2003, 08:00 PM
#18
Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 67
From what I have been reading on other threads, the second generation alternators aren't really cut out to push enough amps to keep a electric fan happy, if you got a s4 the alternator is putting out something like 60Amps where the S5's is not much more. I am thinking that whats going on is that not enough juice is being supplied to the e-fan at low rpm's to have any effect, only when you really get the alternator crankin' is it helping you. But that is just a guess. I had/having the same problems as you are with the over heating biz. For me I found that my fan clutch died so I replaced it and also bought a koyo alu. radiator which keeps the temps down at 1/5 the temp gauge, but the car still aggressively climbs to the 1/5 mark in a matter of minutes, where as before my whole pickle, it barely every moved off the temp gauge.
But now I am thinking that the problem is else where in the equation, I have a itchy feeling that I am running lean, and thats causing my car to get hot. I bought a autometer a/f shitometer for ***** and giggles to see if my car was ruin stoichometric or what not, and found it's buring the gauge to the lean side of the meter at Idle. So now I got to find out if I am low on fuel pressure, or maybe something like a bad O2 meter futsing with the mixture.
So you might want to check to see if everything savvy else where in the engine bay, because the culprit might not just be a problem in your coolant system.
But now I am thinking that the problem is else where in the equation, I have a itchy feeling that I am running lean, and thats causing my car to get hot. I bought a autometer a/f shitometer for ***** and giggles to see if my car was ruin stoichometric or what not, and found it's buring the gauge to the lean side of the meter at Idle. So now I got to find out if I am low on fuel pressure, or maybe something like a bad O2 meter futsing with the mixture.
So you might want to check to see if everything savvy else where in the engine bay, because the culprit might not just be a problem in your coolant system.
12-22-2003, 10:55 PM
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Caldwell, Idaho
Posts: 228
I completely understand what you're saying, and I guess I'm gonna take the s5 alt. I have and throw it on my s4 engine... That should have enough amps to power everything. I put the Efan on because my fan clutch died, and I don't wanna spend any more money on the stupid things if I already had an E-fan. Here's my other question:
I currently have the E-fan to turn on with the second turn on key (right before you turn to start). I think that's having a negative impact on the draw, making my engine really hard to start. You have to sit there and crank it forever even with my fuel cut-off switch on (no fuel). It takes forever to kick, and I've tried a million and a half things...
Do any of you know where I could connect the E-fan so it would only turn on when the thermostat told it to? I have no idea, I have the Hanes manual, but I figured my current setup would work... Now I'm willing to try anything. If any of you have any wiring diagrams or anything, please email me at kornmanxxx@yahoo.com. Thank you all so much for your help. Hope to hear from you guys soon,
Sincerely,
Joel Hager
a.k.a
rotary_revolution_0
I currently have the E-fan to turn on with the second turn on key (right before you turn to start). I think that's having a negative impact on the draw, making my engine really hard to start. You have to sit there and crank it forever even with my fuel cut-off switch on (no fuel). It takes forever to kick, and I've tried a million and a half things...
Do any of you know where I could connect the E-fan so it would only turn on when the thermostat told it to? I have no idea, I have the Hanes manual, but I figured my current setup would work... Now I'm willing to try anything. If any of you have any wiring diagrams or anything, please email me at kornmanxxx@yahoo.com. Thank you all so much for your help. Hope to hear from you guys soon,
Sincerely,
Joel Hager
a.k.a
rotary_revolution_0