weird ass idle problems?
12-11-2007, 05:02 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by Leetheslacker' post='889865' date='Dec 11 2007, 05:12 PM
i cant get to that screw and i highly doubt having the idle adjusted high would make it bounce like it does....
it also stumbles a lot in high rpms when im going WOT.
it all doesnt make sense and i have no idea which part of this fucked up 80's ECU idle control bullshit system im overlooking.
it also stumbles a lot in high rpms when im going WOT.
it all doesnt make sense and i have no idea which part of this fucked up 80's ECU idle control bullshit system im overlooking.
The high idle is enough to get the engine out of the "idle zone" on the map, so no matter how well everything else is working, you wont be able to hold a good idle at 1500 rpm. It has to be below 1k rpm to adjust the tps to where it will idle right. And setting the idle will affect the tps reading, so you need to lower the idle, set the tps, and then adjust the idle again if necessary, and the tps agsin if necessary. Its a pain in the ***, but its the only way Ive found to be really effective at getting a good idle.
As for the other, it could be a lot of things. I would check the fuel system first though. Fuel filter, injectors, etc.
12-11-2007, 05:33 PM
#32
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lee, you need to adjust that screw.
the idle will bounce when its at 1500rpms because you dont have a good setting on the tps because its not in the idle zone.
you dont have to listen, but if you dont listen youre not allowed to complain.
kevin.
the idle will bounce when its at 1500rpms because you dont have a good setting on the tps because its not in the idle zone.
you dont have to listen, but if you dont listen youre not allowed to complain.
kevin.
12-12-2007, 02:05 PM
#33
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yeah yeah i knew that was whiney and someone was gonna say something.
today bombing home from my gf's house, it seemed like if the clutch was down enough to trip that switch the stumbling went away, but that could also be my imagination as its intermittent.
im tracking down a header/presilencer so i can tear everything off this motor and start fresh with no emissions and new gaskets, just to make sure.
ill see if i cant pull the uim off and adjust that screw some, slap it back together, and see if it helps at all. although that seems like a lot of work for a hit or miss idle screw adjustment.
another question, uim gasket. its paper. and its all there. ive taking the uim off and back on a few times. think its holding up? would rtv be okay to add in the mix to make sure? or do i need a new gasket?
today bombing home from my gf's house, it seemed like if the clutch was down enough to trip that switch the stumbling went away, but that could also be my imagination as its intermittent.
im tracking down a header/presilencer so i can tear everything off this motor and start fresh with no emissions and new gaskets, just to make sure.
ill see if i cant pull the uim off and adjust that screw some, slap it back together, and see if it helps at all. although that seems like a lot of work for a hit or miss idle screw adjustment.
another question, uim gasket. its paper. and its all there. ive taking the uim off and back on a few times. think its holding up? would rtv be okay to add in the mix to make sure? or do i need a new gasket?
12-12-2007, 03:14 PM
#34
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Dont mean to rain on your parade but my 86 before it died did the same thing to me the engine was really shaky till one day it went POOF ! ! ! busted up side seal. do a compression check to be on the safe side you did say it was never the same after you boosted it maybe the boost took its toll
12-12-2007, 04:46 PM
#35
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the boosted motor died. this is a new one.
i tore off the uim.
the throttle thing is nowhere close to even hitting the other adjustment screw teknics. its like a cm away from it.
upon further inspection, the primary throttle plate is not closed all the way when the throttle closed. and i cant push it closed anymore then it already is.
something in this mess of tb springs and plates is fucked i supposed.
so the tps thinks its closed but its really open slightly. might explain it.
i tore off the uim.
the throttle thing is nowhere close to even hitting the other adjustment screw teknics. its like a cm away from it.
upon further inspection, the primary throttle plate is not closed all the way when the throttle closed. and i cant push it closed anymore then it already is.
something in this mess of tb springs and plates is fucked i supposed.
so the tps thinks its closed but its really open slightly. might explain it.
12-12-2007, 04:51 PM
#36
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before you pull the uim off to adjust that screw try a whole bunch of screwdrivers, i swear i was able to do it with it attached to the car, try a real long one or something.
damn i wish i lived near you lol i have a few ideas but its something i need to be able to look at in person before it would make sense.
kevin.
damn i wish i lived near you lol i have a few ideas but its something i need to be able to look at in person before it would make sense.
kevin.
12-12-2007, 07:04 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by teknics' post='889969' date='Dec 12 2007, 05:51 PM
before you pull the uim off to adjust that screw try a whole bunch of screwdrivers, i swear i was able to do it with it attached to the car, try a real long one or something.
damn i wish i lived near you lol i have a few ideas but its something i need to be able to look at in person before it would make sense.
kevin.
damn i wish i lived near you lol i have a few ideas but its something i need to be able to look at in person before it would make sense.
kevin.
read the post above yours.
uim is off and the lever thats supposed to land on that screw stops way short of hitting it.
that and the primary throttle plate is open some with the throttle completely closed.
12-12-2007, 09:51 PM
#38
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bac lines were pretty much dry.
so i figure the thermopellet **** never expanded.
so i took the screw out of that arm letting the throttle close all the way.
idles kinda shaky but pretty smooth at about 1k with the clutch in, and with it out, it dies.
but just like every time i take an injector out of a rail, i tore an o-ring so i got a bitchin fuel leak. and im all outta spares.
so im getting closer/
so i figure the thermopellet **** never expanded.
so i took the screw out of that arm letting the throttle close all the way.
idles kinda shaky but pretty smooth at about 1k with the clutch in, and with it out, it dies.
but just like every time i take an injector out of a rail, i tore an o-ring so i got a bitchin fuel leak. and im all outta spares.
so im getting closer/
12-12-2007, 11:23 PM
#39
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ghetto oring worked.
idles at about 7-800 with the clutch out in neutral.
with the clutch pushed in it drops a few hunded rpms but barely still stays running.
the clutch switch magically stopped affecting the idle.
and it cuts out reaaaaaal bad trying to go past 3k rpms.
it did this in the old car it was in. and if you unplugged the tps it would quit cutting out. and then randomly start cutting out again until i plugged the tps back in.
did this a few times and generally pissed me off. i think swapping tps's fixed it maybe? but when i put the uim back on i put on the cleanest looking tps i had.
maybe i'll swap back to the old one.
its too late to run it long enough to get the tps set and timing checked so i guess tomorrow hopefully setting the tps will get rid of the nasty cutout.
idles at about 7-800 with the clutch out in neutral.
with the clutch pushed in it drops a few hunded rpms but barely still stays running.
the clutch switch magically stopped affecting the idle.
and it cuts out reaaaaaal bad trying to go past 3k rpms.
it did this in the old car it was in. and if you unplugged the tps it would quit cutting out. and then randomly start cutting out again until i plugged the tps back in.
did this a few times and generally pissed me off. i think swapping tps's fixed it maybe? but when i put the uim back on i put on the cleanest looking tps i had.
maybe i'll swap back to the old one.
its too late to run it long enough to get the tps set and timing checked so i guess tomorrow hopefully setting the tps will get rid of the nasty cutout.
12-13-2007, 01:53 PM
#40
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quadruple post yay
tps was set to 0v at idle. set it to 1v like it should be and it did the trick.
car idles great. amazing im so happy.
runs better too 99% of the time.
but if im going WOT, between 5 and 6k it cuts out reaaaal nasty. if i get past it it pulls like a bat out of hell.
doesnt seem to do it as much part throttle though.
any ideas?
tps was set to 0v at idle. set it to 1v like it should be and it did the trick.
car idles great. amazing im so happy.
runs better too 99% of the time.
but if im going WOT, between 5 and 6k it cuts out reaaaal nasty. if i get past it it pulls like a bat out of hell.
doesnt seem to do it as much part throttle though.
any ideas?