If I go then I'll be glad to go along wih you. I MAY try to sell my motor and computer to re-do my car better next year. Then I don't need to worry about any upkeep while I'm still looking for work.

 

13bace



I take it no one understood what I meant..let me reiterate.



The w/p housing has 2 sensors. If you have the w/p with only one, you can upgrade your w/ the two sensor to make it look OEM.



That is what I was getting at. I had discovered this while building my friends engine. What a discovery. My T2 did not come with this housing, nor did 4 others.

 

I know that they're interchangeable.

 

Let me take this opportunity to thank you 2 for your help, and for giving me ANOTHER decision to make, lol. Now I dont know if I should go with the other pump, so I can not only have the sender in there, but also so everything can look OEM. Wont the temperature reading seem a little high though picking it up before the radiator? Or is this where it picks it up now? What is the point of the 2 sensors anyhow? I see by the factory workshop manual that the sensor in the thermostat housing is for the "water thermo switch for A/T"?

 

The water thermoswitch turns on an auxiliary fan. JUst tap the thermostat housing and be done with it.

 

Ok, I pulled the cover off the car, and snooped around. IT seems as though the thermostat housing is rigged for a sender, but there isnt one in there. So I figured, great, Ill stick the thing in there, but the probe for the sender is tooooo long to go there, it will hit the thermostat. So Im going to remove the thermostat housing, and have my handy dandy welding friend extend the hole where the factory didnt put the 2nd sender in by about 1", then Ill drill it out where the factory has it closed off, tap it for the 1/2 NPT, and Ill be all good to go

 

Is that hole big enough for a 1/2" NPT tap?

 

Actually, the sender has 1/2 npt, and 3/8, if you cant use the 3/8, you use the 1/2, I got them mixed up, but yes it will accept the 3/8 but not all the way down the boss, Im going to have him extend it so I can tap it up high for the 3/8 and still clear the probe that will stick in 1 1/2 inches past the threads.

 

That sounds like alot of work.

 

All he has to do is weld a small piece of tubing to the top of the housing extending what Mazda already put there, then Ill tap it, Ill probably tap it right at his shop, should be doing this tomoroww, so Ill let you know how it works out, its probably a 1/2 hour job total not including taking the housing off the car ( which should take all of 5-10 minutes ), it would take alot more time to take the water pump off.