I'm look to do a full tune up on my 87 N/A. Is there a general do's and don't? Are there any specific brands that are recommended?



Money isnt an issue, but I'm not rich!



Thanks!

 

pretty straight forward, stay away from FRAM stuff, as theres no filter in there (cut one open)



ngk wires, plugs, mazda oil filter....



if you've got $$$ get a nice synthetic gear oil for the diff.

 

Ditto on the NGK's, plugs depends on what you are running, PureONE or Mobil1 oil filter, new pcv valve, whatever dino oil you prefer, some synthetic in the diff and tranny, and new collant if it's been awhile, beyond that, it's your call... That was the majority of my tuneup

 

Great! Over the weekend I did a full flush and changed upper and lower hoses. I had my tranny and diff fluid changed as well. I ordered all new belts. And later on today when I get home I'm going to order some plugs and wires from racingbeat. Anyone ever ordered from there before? I'm wondering how fast I would be receiving items ordered.



My plans are to get it running smooth before I start adding hp.

 

Yes, racingbeat is generally awesome. I can't remember what the shipping times are, but I've never had a problem with them, and I've never read of anyone else having a problem with them.



My shopping list for "safe" vendors are, in no order:

Mazda dealership

racingbeat.com

mazdatrix.com



If you replace your thermostat, be sure to get a Mazda t-stat. Any other brand can result in problems on a stock system.

 

Ok this day 4 after I had a flush done. I changed the upper and lower hoses and used a MAZDA T-Stat as Baldy has recommended in numerous threads (I try to search often).



Today, after a shitty day at work I run out to start my car about 10 before it's time for me to head home because it was a bit cold today. And of-coarse, when hop in to take off the needle showed about 3/4 to H. I begin wondering if maybe my mechanic did a crappy job... So I decide to drive her home anyway. I only live less than a mile from work so I figured I'd make it. I crank up the heat and there's NO HEAT!



I pull off and about a block into the drive home I feel the heat kick in, HARD! Then the needle began to fall rapidly as I continued.



I thought that maybe this was a weird thing and it corrected it self.



I come to a stop at a red light and i watch needle slowly begin to rise and I notice the heat get cooler. I'm thinking WTF? But as I drove off the needle began to drop and the heat kicked in AGAIN. At this point I hoping I don't come to another light, so I begin avoiding them. The temp falls all the way back down to normal and I'm relieved.



Finally, I get home. After I park I decide to just let it idle a little and see what happens. And sure enough the needle starts rising again. I turn it off and pop the hood and to my surprise, The reservoir if full of coolant! Now I'm thinking some bad news is coming at me fast!



Just give it to me straight... Is it BLOWN?



Is there a sure fire way that I can absolutely, without a doubt be sure?

 

It sounds to me like there might be some air trapped in the system. I presume the car ran fine BEFORE you had this work done?

 

Yes it did as far as I know. I only wanted to begin replacing all the old and worn rubber before I begin dropping money and HP into her.

 

If there's air in it, here's how to get it out.



On the top of the radiator, on the passenger side, there is an air bleed screw. It's a plastic plug with a phillips screwdriver slot, pointing towards the passenger fender.



Wait for the car to cool down, unscrew this plug. Remove radiator cap, have the plug ready in one hand, and fill until your coolant starts coming out of the air bleed hole. Immediately put the plug back in, and continue filling until it's full at the radiator cap (which may be by the t-stat, not necessarily on top of the radiator).



Any time I've had air in my system, this worked every time, on the first try.

 

Alright Baldy you got me on this one. I've searched and searched for this Plastic Bleed Screw. I see nothing! A pic of two would help. The radiator looks original.