i wasn't sure what subforum to put it, sorry i'm new, so i figured generation was my best choice.

how much power can a n/a fc transmission hold? no goal in mind set, i'd like to know what is realistic first,

i'm looking for a tII cause i've been told there's more potential, for cheaper, but i also really need a vehicle now, and i have a n/a offer available, either way it'll end up being a project.

it depends....



if you are doing drag launches or roadracing, maybe 200



if you're just driving on the street, and arent abusing it too much, maybe 300-350.



in other words, it doesnt like abuse. the guys at the track like the redline shockproof stuff, they say it'll last like twice as long

The rotary has poor torque all through the RPM range. Normally under 200 foot pounds. Gear boxes are rated by how much continous torque they can stand. So even a small box like the Mazda can stand quite a bit of torque, and quite a high RPM range at that torque. (High HP). This is not to suggest that screaming the engine and dropping the clutch cannot generate a torque number that will leave a Mazda transmission (Or any transmission) in several garbage bags. But with a normal amount of care they hold up just fine. In road racing the synthetic oil is a must for temperature control, and a transmission oil cooler should be installed. There are many press fits that will let go with high oil temps. The tailshaft bushing should be bolted into the tailshaft, as it will come loose and spin ruining the tailshaft housing and the oil seal. I can make a picture if anyone needs that.



Been there, Fried that!



This does not rate the life of the synchros (poor) or the ease of shifting. (Shift gate width, lever travel), Or synchro effectiveness) about average. It is not unusual to have one of the key springs with the 90 degree bend to break off that bent up piece, and leave you stuck in a single gear until the trans is pulled and rebuilt. There is an easy fix for that if anyone wants it.



Actually the Shock Proof by Redline is for spiral/bevel gear sets (hypoid differential gears) in non limited slip applications.



It will defeat the clutches in limited slip diffs. If used in a synchronized transmission, it will defeat the synchros and shifting will produce more damage to the slider splines and gear face splines. There is a specific lubricant for synchronized (stock) transmissions, and for limited slip differentials By Redline, but Shock Proof is not it.



Shockproof is good in Dog Ring transmissions and non limited slip diffs. Stock non limited slip and welded diffs.



Lynn E. Hanover

Holt ****? Is there an english translation to this?



I have a NA tranny, been abusing it regularly at the drag strip making a little over 200 ft-lbs, shifting is qetting tricky, so I would imagine its about to blow chunks everywhere. Na trannies will just not hold up to alot of abuse, if you can get a TII or afford a dog gear get it.

thanks guys this really helped,

especially considering i'm not thinking i'm not going to be shooting for the 300+ range,

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif

someone told me for a t2 tranny to fit a 2nd gen non turbo rx7, i have to cut the tail or something...could someone please explain since we are already talking about the t2 transmission?

it bolts right in. you need the turbo size clutch, flywheel, starter, and driveshaft though

yea i should definitly look into one because my tranny is starting to crunch when i shift fast...i hate it, not to mention its one that i took out of a gxl like a month ago. do u think if i put more transmission fluid itll go away?

i was reading on rx7club.com

that the na tranny will do fine with a turboed na, he just said that he went through 2 tranny's not because too much power, but because he didn't have enough gear oil.

so it sounds relative. try adding gear oil, if that doesn't fix it, you'll know that wasn't the issue.

if its low, it will help. if the fluid is at the correct level it wont do anything