TII purchase - advice appreciated - Page 2 - NoPistons -Mazda Rx7 & Rx8 Rotary Forum
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2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

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Old 08-08-2002, 05:48 PM   #11  
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Another good idea when going to look at it, try not set an actual time to go look at it if possible...a lot of times, the guy selling the car will go start it up and let it warm up, etc to elimante the risk of it having a bad start when you show up. If you do schedule a time, feel the hood/radiator cap/etc to see if its been running lately. All turbos I've seen have smoked a little on startup...so thats expected. Inspect the exhaust and make sure there isnt an excessive rusting problem. If its original...it will look beat up, lol...but ask the guy if he's had any problems with exhaust rusting quickly...that sometimes can mean a coolant leak in the motor...these are the only tips I could think of that werent mentioned already....
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Old 08-08-2002, 07:21 PM   #12  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clumzy' date='Aug 8 2002, 04:20 PM
About the paint ... I will be sure to inspect it very closely to ensure it's just the hood. If it is just the hood, do you think I should get it repainted immediately? I plan on using it as a daily driver so you think it'll quickly rust thru if I don't have it done right away?



About the compression test. It's odd because I've been in touch with Darryl, the pres of the RX7 club in Toronto Canada, and he recommended me to Dave Dietrich of Mazdee's Performance Auto in Pickering. But Dave told me that I didn't need to have a compression test done to determine if it's a good car. Would I have to goto a Mazda dealership to have it done? Why does a rotory need a compression test? Do any of you know a good place in Toronto?



Thanks for the responses, I will keep you updated and will post pics as soon as I see the car.
A TII hood wont rust, its aluminum. Re-paint it when you want, if thats the only problem, I wouldnt let it deter you. If the whole car is starting to peel down to the primer, then it can be a mess, when I worked on someone else from this boards car ( 13bACE ), his coupe had this peeling problem, there is no remedy for it except to take it all down to the primer, wherever there was paint, it wasnt stable enough to not remove. IF you were to not remove the paint and try to paint over the old paint, being as the ORIGINAL paint was not bonding properly, then your new paint would lift right along with the **** under it. It can be costly considering the door jambs and all were doing it. Check around the hatch area for this under the window, it gets it pretty bad there..
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Old 08-08-2002, 08:20 PM   #13  
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wow, I'm floored by the responses so far. As an aside I've been looking at several AE86's (Toyota Corolla GTS) and trying to solicit help from some of the guys on their boards. There was less response compared to the help you guys have already given me. Thanks again.



RobRx7 ... thanks for the very solid advice. I will be sure to check the hatch area for the tell-tale signs of poor paint bonding. I find the fact that the TII hoods being made of aluminum very interesting .. is that the only body panel of the car made of aluminum? Are the other areas suseptible to rust?



And does anyone know about this compression test machine? Same for piston and rotary engines?



Oh and Rotaryman88 ... the seller specifically mentioned that he replaced the exhaust Y pipe and mufflers with SS "Bozell"(?) exhaust system. He said that because he didn't drive it for very far distances, the original exhaust rusted out on him. No idea how old it is but I will be sure to ask him. Also a great tip about the warm start thing. I will keep that in mind. Thanks.
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Old 08-08-2002, 08:26 PM   #14  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='Aug 8 2002, 10:21 PM
A TII hood wont rust, its aluminum. Re-paint it when you want, if thats the only problem, I wouldnt let it deter you. If the whole car is starting to peel down to the primer, then it can be a mess, when I worked on someone else from this boards car ( 13bACE ), his coupe had this peeling problem, there is no remedy for it except to take it all down to the primer, wherever there was paint, it wasnt stable enough to not remove. IF you were to not remove the paint and try to paint over the old paint, being as the ORIGINAL paint was not bonding properly, then your new paint would lift right along with the **** under it. It can be costly considering the door jambs and all were doing it. Check around the hatch area for this under the window, it gets it pretty bad there..
After I throw in the new motor and turbo the paint may start peeling from air friction.
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Old 08-08-2002, 08:29 PM   #15  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clumzy' date='Aug 9 2002, 02:20 AM
wow, I'm floored by the responses so far. As an aside I've been looking at several AE86's (Toyota Corolla GTS) and trying to solicit help from some of the guys on their boards. There was less response compared to the help you guys have already given me. Thanks again.



RobRx7 ... thanks for the very solid advice. I will be sure to check the hatch area for the tell-tale signs of poor paint bonding. I find the fact that the TII hoods being made of aluminum very interesting .. is that the only body panel of the car made of aluminum? Are the other areas suseptible to rust?



And does anyone know about this compression test machine? Same for piston and rotary engines?



Oh and Rotaryman88 ... the seller specifically mentioned that he replaced the exhaust Y pipe and mufflers with SS "Bozell"(?) exhaust system. He said that because he didn't drive it for very far distances, the original exhaust rusted out on him. No idea how old it is but I will be sure to ask him. Also a great tip about the warm start thing. I will keep that in mind. Thanks.
probably "bosal" http://www.bosal.com

one of my coworkers has a bosal tip on his car... it's pretty ricey.
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