well he convinced me to steer clear of the manny rack and to just take out the pump and everything and weld up the tubes on the housing and stuff





sooo im gonna be cutting away tomorrow at the ps lines after i take out the pump and what not, then since im not a good welder im gonna use jb weld to close the tubing that goes to the housing on the rack itself



now im using jb weld...what type you all think i should use? .... i was debating between regular JB WELD, WATER WELD, and MARINE WELD



what you think is the best for it





and also what you all think about the way im gonna be doing this as opposed to other ways of removing the PS



i hope this way works too , peng said it was perfect for his s4 but we dont know if the s5 is differnet or not



- mike

Dont JB wled the stuff shut. Thats messy. Just take out the banjo bolts from the rack and plug them up. I cant remember exact sizes but I think it was two (2) M14x1.25 and one (1) M16x1.5.



Just pump most of the fluid out of the rack by tuning the wheel lock to lock once, wrap some teflon tape around those bolts, and thread them on in there. Worked great for me. Jacob Cartmill and I also did it to his 91 NA

arent there 5 bolts on the steering gear? ... and 2 on the rack

its gonna wind up like this...if i use jb weld

yea pengaru told me ta do the same thing but i'm not taking my ps out anytime soon... how bout the midpipe LOL

peng likes to spread his opinions.........

yes yes...but i think its a good idea...its a 5 dollar fix compared to buying a manual rack

its cool you can ignore me

This is what I did, what Jacob Cartmill has done, what my friend with an ITR has done, and what many people reccomend to do with the rack.

looping the two fittings on the rack works well.



i welded shut the lines to plug them, frestyle is afraid of welding so he wanted to use jb weld. Best would be to plug with the right plugs, I spent $0.00 on my PS -> Manual conversion because I already had everyting needed to weld the lines shut and bend the one line around to loop the rack.



if you try getting all the fluid out of the rack and plug everything, you arent making things much easier, you will be compressing the air in the rack when you steer. Looping the two fittings you will simply be movnig fluid through the looped line, my car steers quite easy right now and I even have a tiny steering wheel.

adam...what size bolts are those?

Same exact way that I did mine. Works great.



-Marc

i like power steering..... its much easier to drift with it!

Two (2)M14x1.25, One (1)M16x1.5

rock......anyone know the sizes on the back of the steering gear ... that connect to the rack....im gonna loop it around like pegy said

If you going to rig it, I like adam's way. But peng does have a good point. I converted to a manual rack and its really easy to use https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

my **** is ghetto rigged for now. i clamped shut the tubes so it holds fluid and is really easy to steer. i think it were any easier it would be decreasing the feel of the road

His point looks good on paper, but doesnt exactly pan out in real life. Air is VERY easy to compress. Especially when you have your whole wheel as a torque arm and are using gears also.



I can turn my wheel with one hand EASY ( unless Im at a dead stop https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR ) and Im not a big guy. 6'1", 170lbs...

well, if someone has alot of time on their hands they can measure the difference.

arite so theres two lines from rack to the steering gear



what would be the point of ,



A - keeping those lines intact the way they are



B - disconnecting them from the gear, plugging the hole, and then looping one from rack back to the rack

Loop the lines and keep the fluid in there! If you do not keep the fluid in there it will eventually grind to a halt. The fluid acts a lubricant. Air sure can't do this. These racks need fluid in them to stay alive over many years. Looping the lines allows the flud to go from one side to the other with the greatest of ease so compression is no longer an issue. It's the best way to go about it.



Sticking with the P/S rack as opposed to the manual rack might make turning a bit hard, but the 2.7 turns lock to lock is nice.

Thats why you dont drain the rack completely when you plug it...

OK, Where the **** are you finding these bolts? I cannot find them anywhere locally. None of the "home centers" have them, and I have called all of the bolt & fastner suppliers, they dont stock them either. Help! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/angry.png

mebe cause theyre metric?

The closest I can find is a m14x2. Are you sure 1.25 is the proper thread pitch?

is automotive pitch, home depot won't carry that stuff https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png

Im so sorry. The sizes are actually two (2)M12x1.25 and one (1)M16x1.5.





Im sorry guys.



The M12 should be easy to find, but the M16 was pretty tough for me to source. I had to end up going to this store that sells nothing but nutls and bolts called American Fasnter Supply.





Im sorry.

youre SORRY!!!! for that sort of error you shall DIE!

That makes a HUGE difference.

That makes a HUGE difference. [/quote]

Sorry...

"you can stuff your sorrys in a sack, mister"

w..t..f..

its from seinfeld, quote from george costanza, he picked it up from a chick on one of his many dating adventures



guess you just have to see the episode...

quit ruining the information post!

For every piece of misinformation you relate to us....YOU SHALL DIE!



http://www.familyguyfiles.com/epics/fulls/FG-102_30.png



Victory is mine!

well i foudn the 16 no problem...12 is hard!! WTF REVERSED

You are going to miss the power steering !

I was able to locate both size bolts at a local bolt/fastener supplier.

freestyle, if you want to drift i strongly suggest not eliminating power steerting. I agree with pengaru's way of leaving the fluid in it. Eventually the rack will sieze with no flud in it. Power steering fluid is the only way a power rack gets lubrication.