2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

Subframe connectors.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 02:34 PM
  #1  
fc3s4utnv's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 831
From: Greenwood AR
Default

If you dont have them you need them, it made such a difference. If anyone is local to Eastern Ok or western AR I can get you the hook up with them, Ill post some pics ASAP.
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 02:57 PM
  #2  
teknics's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 4,837
From: Wayne, NJ
Default

what kind of subframe connector? theres a couple kinds that come to mind.



kevin.
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 02:57 PM
  #3  
Baldy's Avatar
Super Moderator
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,425
From: Tallahassee, FL
Default

What is a subframe connector, and what does it do?
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 03:25 PM
  #4  
1988RedT2's Avatar
Super Moderator
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,535
From: VA
Default

Originally Posted by Baldy' post='814804' date='Apr 19 2006, 02:57 PM

What is a subframe connector, and what does it do?


This is lifted from the Competition Engineering website:



Since the chassis is the backbone of the car, the "action" of transferring power into it must not result in the "reaction" of twisting and flexing. Therefore, the chassis must be as rigid as possible. Frame Connectors are used to connect front and rear unibody subframes, effectively making them one piece. This eliminates unwanted flex in the chassis and prevents it from absorbing the power needed for acceleration.
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 03:58 PM
  #5  
One320B's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 959
Default

My MS Lower control arm stiffener just got into customs this week... but it essentially it does the same thing for the front end of the car.. Look to AutoEXE or Mazdaspeed for some nice braces if you want to beef up your chassis...its a must in drifting/road course racing the FC.. they are twitchy cars..but get them strong enough...and correcting mistakes in steering and acceleration is easier to predict!
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 04:23 PM
  #6  
fc3s4utnv's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 831
From: Greenwood AR
Default

I used 1x2 pretty heavy gauge steel. Cleaned all of the undercoat off of the frame rails, cut the steel to two 40 inch peices, used poll jacks to jack the car up in the center with the connector up their, (enough to where you could see the car bowed in the middle), then welded them while it was bowed. When we set the car back on the ground it was perfectly flat. My dash doesnt rattle anymore, doors shut better, and wheel hop was greatly reduced, I would recomend these to anyone.
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 05:22 PM
  #7  
j9fd3s's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 22,465
From: California
Default

along those lines i put a rear strut bar into my fc, and it made a big difference. car feels really tight and solid
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 08:25 PM
  #8  
One320B's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 959
Default

Your mom is really tight and solid!
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 10:03 PM
  #9  
donhayes's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 485
From: El Paso, TX
Default

show us a picture of these subframes.
Old Apr 20, 2006 | 07:48 AM
  #10  
Baldy's Avatar
Super Moderator
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,425
From: Tallahassee, FL
Default

I have a front lower arm bar, connects the control arms together. I used to have a front strut tower bar, but after installing new motor mounts, the cheap e-bay bar doesn't fit. Darn, I'm out $6. I may actually have to buy decent front and rear tower bars.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:21 PM.