stock 7 - 12mpg?
04-29-2006, 04:30 PM
#22
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 19
oh yeah, lxk99, are you talking about this one?
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....ype=291&ptset=A
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....ype=291&ptset=A
04-29-2006, 05:29 PM
#24
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 278
You can install an oxygen sensor by yourself, it's easier if u have an oxygen sensor wrench/socket with the cutout for the wire. CEL probably wouldn't happen, given that its an S4. My wire was probably melted through for months before I noticed it. And yes, that's the one. Mine is on my header, so it's actually under the car and there's no heatshield, and it took about 30 seconds to remove the old and install the new. Yours should still only take a few minutes, even what with crimping the new end on the wire (the stock connector won't work with a universal sensor, but its no big deal).
PS-yes that is where the sensor is located, in your pic.
PS-yes that is where the sensor is located, in your pic.
04-29-2006, 05:33 PM
#25
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 19
ah so i have to do some splicing/crimping then eh. does the o2 sensor really explain my 12mpg though?
and also, do speed bleeders really help that much? i still dont understand the concept of bleeding so i'm hoping speed bleeders might prevent me from pumping air into the lines.
and also, do speed bleeders really help that much? i still dont understand the concept of bleeding so i'm hoping speed bleeders might prevent me from pumping air into the lines.
04-29-2006, 05:37 PM
#26
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 278
the o2 sensor could be part of the problem, but the dragging brakes are definitely something to look at, as well.
speed bleeders are Ok if you don't have someone to help. It allows you to do the job alone with much less chance of getting air in the lines. The basic concept of bleeding is super easy.
IM me at kyrmsegalore if you'd like help with anythign
speed bleeders are Ok if you don't have someone to help. It allows you to do the job alone with much less chance of getting air in the lines. The basic concept of bleeding is super easy.
IM me at kyrmsegalore if you'd like help with anythign
04-30-2006, 08:29 AM
#28
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 19
ok here's another question
it says here "Measure the pedal height (distance from the center of the brake pedal's upper surface to the firewall, behind the insulation). It should be 7.48-7.68 in. (190-195mm) for 1979-85 models, or 8.07-8.27 in. (205-210mm) for 1986-89 models."
i measured it in my car and it's about 6 in. now can that be my problem?
it says here "Measure the pedal height (distance from the center of the brake pedal's upper surface to the firewall, behind the insulation). It should be 7.48-7.68 in. (190-195mm) for 1979-85 models, or 8.07-8.27 in. (205-210mm) for 1986-89 models."
i measured it in my car and it's about 6 in. now can that be my problem?
04-30-2006, 02:51 PM
#29
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 278
Originally Posted by furiousbob' post='816722' date='Apr 30 2006, 05:29 AM
ok here's another question
it says here "Measure the pedal height (distance from the center of the brake pedal's upper surface to the firewall, behind the insulation). It should be 7.48-7.68 in. (190-195mm) for 1979-85 models, or 8.07-8.27 in. (205-210mm) for 1986-89 models."
i measured it in my car and it's about 6 in. now can that be my problem?
That probably has something to do with the stuck caliper/collapsed line issue. Either of these would cause the pedal to not return fully.