Still Got Problems But They Are Getting Worse
#12
well when you start the car cold it is supposed to go to 3000rpms for 30seconds, and the fan also comes on. then it should ilde at 1500rpms and gradually as it warms up it will drop to the normal 750-800 idle.
go back to the palce that sold you the radio and show them what it does, they prolly taped the wires to close together or something
mike
go back to the palce that sold you the radio and show them what it does, they prolly taped the wires to close together or something
mike
#13
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Mar 17 2003, 09:52 AM
well when you start the car cold it is supposed to go to 3000rpms for 30seconds, and the fan also comes on. then it should ilde at 1500rpms and gradually as it warms up it will drop to the normal 750-800 idle.
go back to the palce that sold you the radio and show them what it does, they prolly taped the wires to close together or something
mike
go back to the palce that sold you the radio and show them what it does, they prolly taped the wires to close together or something
mike
#17
From my experience, the TB mod usually helps this issue.
What i discovered with my similar idiling/random stall problems today was the stupid little o-ring that seals the intake flex tube to the TB, i replaced it. The rubber ring was ****** flat as a pancake and not sealing. I used a ferrari rear seal housing o-ring and versachem'd it in. The car runs like a champ for the most part now.
What i discovered with my similar idiling/random stall problems today was the stupid little o-ring that seals the intake flex tube to the TB, i replaced it. The rubber ring was ****** flat as a pancake and not sealing. I used a ferrari rear seal housing o-ring and versachem'd it in. The car runs like a champ for the most part now.
#20
When I start my car cold, it revs to about 2500 RPM but does not stay. It immediately drops and then wants to quit. I rev it myself up to 3000 and hold it there for a few seconds, then it drops to about 1100 for a little bit then down to 750 as the engine warms up. The fan does come on.
I think I do have vacuum problems though. I have run all the diagnostic tests from the Haynes manual and nothing seems to be functioning as Haynes says it should. The ACV blows air all the time instead of just above 1500 RPM. The relief solenoid valve does not have a vacuum when the car is revved about 2000 RPM. If I apply a vacuum to the EGR solenoid valve, Haynes says the car should run rough or stall. I can't get this to hold a vacuum.
It has been a pain in the butt because I think this has a lot to do with why the car would not pass inspection.
I think I do have vacuum problems though. I have run all the diagnostic tests from the Haynes manual and nothing seems to be functioning as Haynes says it should. The ACV blows air all the time instead of just above 1500 RPM. The relief solenoid valve does not have a vacuum when the car is revved about 2000 RPM. If I apply a vacuum to the EGR solenoid valve, Haynes says the car should run rough or stall. I can't get this to hold a vacuum.
It has been a pain in the butt because I think this has a lot to do with why the car would not pass inspection.