is the temp around there changing drastically llately like it is here in IL?



if so it could be change of climate ******* up your world, fuel injected 80's cars can be a pain in the elctrical ass.

well when you start the car cold it is supposed to go to 3000rpms for 30seconds, and the fan also comes on. then it should ilde at 1500rpms and gradually as it warms up it will drop to the normal 750-800 idle.



go back to the palce that sold you the radio and show them what it does, they prolly taped the wires to close together or something



mike

um all i know it that since i bought the car it didnt go to 3000 rpm it goes to like 1500 or 2000 but the climate has been changing alot round here pengaru. it was 19 degrees like 3 days ago and today its like 63 degrees

i tryed to explain the idle thing to you last night but you wouldnt listen.

oh **** i forgot that was your screename lol

when the idle revvs up high, just kick it down, sometimes the idle at that point might jump a bit when the car is cold, maybe stall, just tap the gas and even it out, dont sweat it.

From my experience, the TB mod usually helps this issue.



What i discovered with my similar idiling/random stall problems today was the stupid little o-ring that seals the intake flex tube to the TB, i replaced it. The rubber ring was ****** flat as a pancake and not sealing. I used a ferrari rear seal housing o-ring and versachem'd it in. The car runs like a champ for the most part now. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif

The car is supposed to go to 3000 RPM then come down to 1500 or so then eventually come down to 750.



What if your car is no longer doing this? What needs to be done to get it to do this again?

It could be the idle a vacuum leak and im sure maybe a few other things that could need to be fixed.

What excactly is yours doing gazellis?

When I start my car cold, it revs to about 2500 RPM but does not stay. It immediately drops and then wants to quit. I rev it myself up to 3000 and hold it there for a few seconds, then it drops to about 1100 for a little bit then down to 750 as the engine warms up. The fan does come on.



I think I do have vacuum problems though. I have run all the diagnostic tests from the Haynes manual and nothing seems to be functioning as Haynes says it should. The ACV blows air all the time instead of just above 1500 RPM. The relief solenoid valve does not have a vacuum when the car is revved about 2000 RPM. If I apply a vacuum to the EGR solenoid valve, Haynes says the car should run rough or stall. I can't get this to hold a vacuum.



It has been a pain in the butt because I think this has a lot to do with why the car would not pass inspection.