2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

smoking on start up

Old 01-18-2007, 08:28 AM
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what's up everyone?! i am new to rotary motors and i am trying to figure out why my car starts rough and smokes very much on start up! of course after a few minutes the smoke goes away and then the car runs pretty good! i know i am dumping fuel into my oil, because the oil smells like fuel, but i am not sure why, besides possible blown out seals! could anyone give me some pointers please??? i am pretty good with mechanics and vehicles but not very good with these rotary motors! i am trying to learn as much as i can! thank you to anyone that replies!
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Old 01-18-2007, 11:19 AM
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same smoke color differentation applies...

also.. smoke on startup can be from condensation dissepation.. determine the color of the smoke to diagnose..
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Old 01-18-2007, 08:32 PM
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it's a light gray smoke! it's the same color smoke that you would get when you have blown rings on a conventional piston style motor!
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Old 01-18-2007, 11:44 PM
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How does it run when warmed up?



Do you have any issues starting it when warmed up?



If it runs good when warm and there are no hot start issues. Just drive it and enjoy it, who cares what it does when its cold? You need to warm it up properly anyway.
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Old 01-19-2007, 06:03 AM
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it runs pretty good when it is warmed up with the exception that at high rpms it cuts out! it starts rougher when it is warm then when it is cold! sometimes i can't even get it to start without letting it sit! it acts like it is flooding itself even though it is fuel injected! no matter when i start it, cold or warm i have to play with the gas pedal to get it to start! i have been reading alot about these motors and it points to the injector o-rings! if they are warn out or not seated properly then they could be leaking fuel into the combustion chamber and that would cause the problem that i am having, but i still don't know for sure, so i figure that i would get some more opinions! thank you!
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Old 01-19-2007, 09:37 AM
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You need to do a compression check then go from there. I suspect you have low compression. Hard starting when warm is a good indicator. (sometimes its a leaky injector too but your other symptoms indicate compression)



The gas in the oil typically happens when you get blow by.



You can use a standard compression testor just take the shrader valave out. You want to wathc for 3 solid bounces on the needle and note how much compression its making. Do it on a warmed up engine.



I am sure f you search compression check on here there is a step by step on how to do it.
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Old 01-28-2007, 09:00 PM
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i will do the compression check then! do you know what the compression is suppose to be at??? i think i am going to throw a new better, stronger motor in it, do you know if any shops on the west coast that is good??? i am looking to spend about 2k on a new motor! i know of one place down in pheonix (yawpower) they seem to know there stuff! let me know what you think, please! thank you!
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Old 01-28-2007, 11:18 PM
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pm 1Revvin7 hes some where in pheonix and there are tons of other people around there also that do rebuilds and porting. if i believe good compression is any where above 80psi per rotor face 3 faces per rotor and the rear usually has less compression but let someone else chime in here this is just off the top of my head
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Old 01-28-2007, 11:43 PM
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well thanks for the info! do i need to check the compression 3 times on each plug hole? leading and trailing? i am going to work on getting a compression tester first thing tomorrow and check this! i know i need to pull my plugs and look at them anyways! it's starting to run a little rough while driving it now also! i think i might be foulling out plugs because the car is cutting out at higher rpms! i know alot about conventional piston motors, but still learning about rotarys! eventually i will know just as much about these as i do piston motors..... with the help of all of you! lol! thank you!
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Old 01-29-2007, 12:48 AM
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dude its ok we all ahve to learn at one point i was in your boat too. now you just need to check the leading on both the front and rear rotor and when you take the little vaulve out of the tester and turn the engine you will see the the needle bounce three times indicating each face record those 3 #s for both the front and rear soo you should have 6 #s in total 3 for the fron and 3 for the rear and i would buy new plugs or just clean the one you have with a wire brush
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