Fd3BOOST

I looked through some of the FAQ's and a few other places and still didn't really answer my questions. Maybe you guys can give me some good advice.



Car is a 88 n/a. Engine died after the car was driven with no oil for about 30 miles. Lost compression on the rear rotor and my old man picked it up for $200. I yanked the engine out yesterday and I am cracking it open today if I can.

The front E-shaft bolt is on there tight. I hit it with a heavy impact gun and it will not come off. Is it likely that the oil starvation has something to do with this? Let me clear up the obvious also. It is lefty loosey on that right?



The plan at this point with this car is very simple. We are only going to rebuild the engine and paint the car. Nothing wild. I do not want to trip any error codes. I would however like to modify and simplfy what can be. This engine is six port which I am not really familiar with. I read that removing the 5th and 6th port sleeves will sacrifice low end torque. Is this really all that noticable. Is it better to just wire them open and can it be done with out adversly effecting the engines operation. Is it best just to leave them alone all together?



Manifolds, What are my options being that we are not going to be using a stand alone ECU? Which alternate lower can I use. Can the Cosmo or Fd mainfolds be used in cunjuction with the fc manifolds. If so what on the harness as to be redone?

I am aware of the connections like TPS etc but I really don't know which direction of manifolds I am heading in so I am not ceratain what to look into yet. I would like to do the Fd stuff since I am so familiar with it but I am not sure if it is even worth it. Are there any clearance issues with the oil filler neck or anything else? Thoughts?



I realize some of these questions might be redundant but please help a guy out.

I just need to get an idea of what I can and what I cannot do

Thanks fellas.

rfreeman27

Dave that front bolt can be a major *****...



did you hit it with a torch yet?



Another thing I do is a made a bar that slips onto the dowels of the flywheel and is about 4 feet long, then i get a breaker bar with a jack handle or somethnig on it and put it on the bolt. Get three people, one on either end of the motor putting torque on the bars and one person sitting on the actual motor itself to keep it from moving.



On my last motor i lifted demetrius 3 feet off the ground a few times but that made it break loose...

cymfc3s

re, that front bolt. What Mike and I did for my car, was use a super long chain wrench. We wraped the chain wrench around the pulley hub and then used a 1/2 breaker bar extended with a hydraulic jack bar for extra leverage. It popped right off after a bit of cursing...

cymfc3s

chain wrench

Fd3BOOST

Yea we tried the breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe yesterday with no luck. Thats fine though so long as this is not out of the ordinary. The motor in my 3rd gen was not like this nor was the 12a from that repu I had. I'll put my *** into it. Thanks for the advice. Now does anyone else got any advice about the manifolds?

teknics

Well ill go to your mainfolds question.



You have an s4 lower manifold, obviously...the cars an s4. From what ive ehard you cant swap an FD manifold onto an S4 lower...i could be wrong but i thought i heard that and since i have an s5 obviously i haventtested an s4.



Now if you can put an FD UIM on an s4 LIM (you cant use the FD LIM, obviously) You have to center the UIM to LIM using the center, long bolt. Then adjust the UIM's bolt holes accordingly, normally you need to stretch all 4 at least alittle bit.



THen obviously you need an FD TB, TPS as well as the FD Throttle Cable. You'll need either the stock TB Elbow piece or the Greddy unit.



You'll need to shorten the base of the oil filler neck, i shrunk mine way down then welded the flange back onto it, i have about 1/4" of clearance.



You should use the LIM's gasket to reshape the FD UIM's ports because the UIM's primaries are significantly smaller then the FC's LIM primary ports. HOWEVER you have to be careful while dremeling cause you will only be leaving yourself about 1/8" of gasket sealing area, this is VERY IMPORTANT.

As for harness modification....umm depends on if you wanna bypass idle control devices. You wont have an FC BACV, IAT, TPS, and i think one other thing. You can probably use the FD IAT, and can wire the FD TPS into the FC Harness...i know nothing about the BACV tho.



In all honesty 90% of the people that swap the FD UIM onto an FC LIM use a standalone and no idle controls or emission equipment...its just like 500times easier.



kevin.

BigTurbo74

i'm with Kevin on the fd mani convert. the s4 lim sits very low and even though i don't have the parts in front of me i highly doubt that it would work. if it did, like Kevin said it would be a bitch to keep the drivability issues at bay without the idle controls and what not. on to the aux. port actuation. is this car going to stay completely stock? any emissions equip? my personal opinion is the stock actuation system is garbage. my advice would be to recommend an electronic system that is rpm controlled instead of exhaust backpressure especially if a free flowing exhaust is in the plans. sounds like a fun project...

rowtareh

I read somewhere's that a SA22 cable is needed for the conversion. Could be wrong though.



Dave: Did you and yer pops crack the block open?

GreyGT-C

i've always strapped my engine down on the big metal table in my garage and used a floor jack handle on the breaker bar to pop that ****** off. I have no idea about anything on an FC engine though.... i'm in the middle of learning it now though.

Fd3BOOST

Thanks for the input guys. When I looked at the lower that is on thet car ( s4 i guess) i thought it looked awfully short for the fd uim so you just confirmed my suspisions. I suppose I could pick up the s5 lower. See the problem is this is my dads car and he really jsut wants to put it back together. So he will not pay for a stand alone. I saw a nice racing beat 6 port intake with a weber carb and the FPR all for sale for $550. That might be cool. My old man said he didn't want to drop $550 on that. Damn hippies.



On a side note he did mention that he finished off most of the body work yesterday.





Anyway thanks again Kevin and Big Turbo.