I know that at least one of you has found a way to eliminate this line. It comes down from the tb and goes to the back of the block. it is an absolute pain in the *** to install this line and i have to reattach my fuel return line, it blew (ran fine for 500 miles) and it must be done asap, or else the car will be towed. SO i need to either order that coolant line today or find some way to elimnate it. Also, will my LIM intake gasket need to be replace because of all teh fuel that puddled up? I am extremely lucky the car did not light on fire or run completely out of gas. So can you guys help me out?





i'll let you know if the line melted or if it just somehow worked it's way off. i removed the vac rack and jsut used fuel line rather than the stock solid lines. i was concerned about heat transfer.... anyways i digress. how do i elimnate that line?

 

if its gonna be towned just plug both ends and move the car. don'tcha wanna meet the guy who designed that hose



the permenant solution is to put the 89+ thermowax hosing on it, the hose is a lot easier to get to



mike

 

I just tapped and capped it...

 

can i tap it with the engine there, or do you need to do this at the same time as a rebuild. what size tap and bolt did you use. thanks

 

Another option is to also bypass the BAC at the same time. The hose that runs from the water pump to the BAC will reach from the water pump to the block. So, remove the BAC-TB line, the TB-block line, and move the waterpump-BAC line so it is now a waterpump-block line. This will affect idle when cold.

 

nope, i do not want to remove my bac.

 

You don't have to remove the BAC, just the water line going to it. Basically you take the BAC and TB out of the water loop.

 

i was wondering this too because my pulsation damper went out and my UIM had excess gas on it....

 

I'd replace the gasket(s)... no point in risking vac leaks.

 

a rubber cap and hose clamp has worked fine for me so far. Yeah, it's redneck, but if/when I do a rebuild, I'll tap and cap.