2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

Sawsall To Cut Hole In Chassis?

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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 04:26 PM
  #11  
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i agree with rob, i've used hole saws that are a little more money on stuff a lot harder than sheetmetal
Old Jun 1, 2005 | 06:01 PM
  #12  
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I tried a Bosch hole saw. Problem is that the drill bit has nothing but air to stay on track. I just can't seem to hold the drill steady. It walks all over the metal, tearing it up. I did it the Banzai way. It worked good, but damn I went all the way up to the headlight bracket and down as far as I could go and with 2.5in piping and the angle I need it to go through it's an extremely tight fit.



I figured out a way to loosen it up. Good thing that these couplings are flexible.
Old Jun 1, 2005 | 06:07 PM
  #13  
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After you file off the rough edges you can use some door edge guard and some bionic sealant to protect against anything getting cut or scraped that otherwise wouldn't be.
Old Jun 1, 2005 | 07:39 PM
  #14  
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center punches cost 3 dollars
Old Jun 1, 2005 | 08:18 PM
  #15  
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center punch, then if your still ineasy, drill a pilot hole, a UNIBIT actually works GREAT for this ( F.U Banzai, lol )



you are keeping the drill bit in the hole saw and not just using it on its own right?



the angle can be a bitch to figure out and have it come out neat

the old saying measure twice and cut once
Old Jun 1, 2005 | 08:29 PM
  #16  
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[quote name='89 Rag' date='Jun 1 2005, 03:07 PM']After you file off the rough edges you can use some door edge guard and some bionic sealant to protect against anything getting cut or scraped that otherwise wouldn't be.

[snapback]719927[/snapback]

[/quote]



I used vacuum hose.





[quote name='Rob x-7' date='Jun 1 2005, 05:18 PM']center punch, then if your still ineasy, drill a pilot hole, a UNIBIT actually works GREAT for this ( F.U Banzai, lol )



you are keeping the drill bit in the hole saw and not just using it on its own right?



the angle can be a bitch to figure out and have it come out neat

the old saying measure twice and cut once

[snapback]719979[/snapback]

[/quote]



Yes. Drill bit and saw are together. The problem still is that there is not even a place to center punch, otherwise I would have done that. The center of the hole I need to cut overlaps an existing hole that some of the harness goes through. So I can't center punch anywhere, unless I am not understanding you.



I completed one side with Banzai's idea. Not real clean, but when I covered the edges with the silcone tubing it turned out nice.
Old Jun 2, 2005 | 12:58 AM
  #17  
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[quote name='SidewaysFC' date='Jun 1 2005, 05:29 PM']Yes. Drill bit and saw are together. The problem still is that there is not even a place to center punch, otherwise I would have done that. The center of the hole I need to cut overlaps an existing hole that some of the harness goes through. So I can't center punch anywhere, unless I am not understanding you.

[snapback]719988[/snapback]

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I know what you're saying.

As an example: you want to make a 2" hole into a 3" hole. Can't use a 1/4" drill bit in your 3" holesaw to center in a 2" hole.



What I do is take a piece of scrap sheet metal and cut just smaller than the diameter of my hole saw, and then mark the center with a punch. I then screw that piece of scrap metal onto my old hole with 10 to 12 self-tapping screws. Then, I use my hole-saw.



As an example: I have a 2" hole, and want to cut a 3" hole.

I cut a piece of sheet metal into a 2.75" circle with my tin snips, then matrk the center. I then screw this 2.75 piece of sheet metal onto my 2" hole, use the 3" hole saw, and wind up with a perfect 3" hole.



Works great, gives a nice, neat hole, fairly quick.
Old Jun 2, 2005 | 05:47 AM
  #18  
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[quote name='scathcart' date='Jun 2 2005, 01:58 AM']I know what you're saying.

As an example: you want to make a 2" hole into a 3" hole. Can't use a 1/4" drill bit in your 3" holesaw to center in a 2" hole.



What I do is take a piece of scrap sheet metal and cut just smaller than the diameter of my hole saw, and then mark the center with a punch. I then screw that piece of scrap metal onto my old hole with 10 to 12 self-tapping screws. Then, I use my hole-saw.



As an example: I have a 2" hole, and want to cut a 3" hole.

I cut a piece of sheet metal into a 2.75" circle with my tin snips, then matrk the center. I then screw this 2.75 piece of sheet metal onto my 2" hole, use the 3" hole saw, and wind up with a perfect 3" hole.



Works great, gives a nice, neat hole, fairly quick.

[snapback]720115[/snapback]

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thats the idea, I would substitute a piece of 1/4 or 1/2 plywood instead of a scrap of sheetmetal, then you wont have to centerpunch it at all and it will be easier on the drill bit and the hole saw
Old Jun 2, 2005 | 06:38 AM
  #19  
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I thought about that as well, but didn't have anything substantial to use. I'm very limited on resources onviously



I think everything is turning out ok though. 2 more days till the dyno day, and I have both holes cut and the passenger side piping layout ready to be welded ...hopefully today. Modifying the TB adapter, driver's side piping layout, and new uim/lim gasket remains. Then i'll run through w/e problems occur. Could be a lot of things since I have a lot disconnected.
Old Jun 2, 2005 | 08:52 AM
  #20  
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i used tin snips on mine, it could look better, but it works.



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