2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

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Old 04-17-2002, 12:31 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 13BAce' date='April 16 2002,21:19
I'm not really running too rich, but the spark seems a little too weak.
I guess that's the case with all of them. Once, I was parked in the driveway, I tried to start but it was getting flooded. I was with some friends so we pushed it (in 5th gear, no gas), the engine turned about 3 slow turns and started. Why? you would say, because when we use the starter, a voltage drop of 1 volt only, is about 2000 volts on the plugs. So if it's just enough when running, we do have a problem when starting. By pushing the car, all the power goes to igniters. I've read somewhere that using a 1000 amp battery, solve the flooding tendancy of RX7's. It explains alot. So stronger igniters is the best solution since you'll probably get some extra HPs.
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Old 04-17-2002, 06:09 AM
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I have had a Sears Die-Hard Gold battery in my car for years, I have no flooding/starting problem, this winter I let the car sit almost 2 months withouth starting it, and it fired right up, and the alarm was left on the whole time as well. I used to run a Exide 1000, but the quality of them has gone down in my opinion since Exide was sold a few years back. Besides, the Sears battery has a 3 year replacement, and a 96 month warranty, I believe its somewhere around 900 amps.
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Old 04-17-2002, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='April 17 2002,07:09
I have had a Sears Die-Hard Gold battery in my car for years, I have no flooding/starting problem, this winter I let the car sit almost 2 months withouth starting it, and it fired right up, and the alarm was left on the whole time as well. I used to run a Exide 1000, but the quality of them has gone down in my opinion since Exide was sold a few years back. Besides, the Sears battery has a 3 year replacement, and a 96 month warranty, I believe its somewhere around 900 amps.
My car starts up fine all of the time, but I just want a stronger spark to make low RPM driving a little smoother. I also need to either get a new exhaust gasket or start on my 4" exhaust system, because my car now sounds like my neighbor's motorcycle.
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Old 04-17-2002, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='April 17 2002,07:09
I have had a Sears Die-Hard Gold battery in my car for years, I have no flooding/starting problem, this winter I let the car sit almost 2 months withouth starting it, and it fired right up, and the alarm was left on the whole time as well. I used to run a Exide 1000, but the quality of them has gone down in my opinion since Exide was sold a few years back. Besides, the Sears battery has a 3 year replacement, and a 96 month warranty, I believe its somewhere around 900 amps.
That proves it again. Using stronger batteries would probably solve a flooding problem but there's still one thing left though, if the weakness is the igniters, when running you don't need that strong battery anymore because you get the same voltage as the 'standard' battery (alternator is there). So the best improvement would be the igniters, most likely with turbos if they've got the same igniters as NA (there's more pressure at ignition). But a good battery is still important for easy starting anyway and probably much less expensive.



How much does it cost for a Bosch igniter kit like that? I'd be interested if it's not too expensive. ???
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Old 04-17-2002, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Powerpack' date='April 17 2002,08:59
[quote name='Rob x-7' date='April 17 2002,07:09']I have had a Sears Die-Hard Gold battery in my car for years, I have no flooding/starting problem, this winter I let the car sit almost 2 months withouth starting it, and it fired right up, and the alarm was left on the whole time as well. I used to run a Exide 1000, but the quality of them has gone down in my opinion since Exide was sold a few years back. Besides, the Sears battery has a 3 year replacement, and a 96 month warranty, I believe its somewhere around 900 amps.
That proves it again. Using stronger batteries would probably solve a flooding problem but there's still one thing left though, if the weakness is the igniters, when running you don't need that strong battery anymore because you get the same voltage as the 'standard' battery (alternator is there). So the best improvement would be the igniters, most likely with turbos if they've got the same igniters as NA (there's more pressure at ignition). But a good battery is still important for easy starting anyway and probably much less expensive.



How much does it cost for a Bosch igniter kit like that? I'd be interested if it's not too expensive. ???[/quote]

I don't know how much the Bosch igniters are. My friend got them used as part of a Haltech deal.
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Old 04-17-2002, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 13BAce' date='April 17 2002,06:56
I don't know how much the Bosch igniters are. My friend got them used as part of a Haltech deal.
Is it just igniters or the coils are included, because the weakness is more likely to be the coils. Are we supposed to get more HPs or fuel economy with these? We should be able to find some specs or some sort of comparisons with the stock ones, on the web. Anyway if you try them let me know the final results. :notify:
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Old 04-17-2002, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Powerpack' date='April 17 2002,10:14
[quote name='13BAce' date='April 17 2002,06:56']I don't know how much the Bosch igniters are. My friend got them used as part of a Haltech deal.
Is it just igniters or the coils are included, because the weakness is more likely to be the coils. Are we supposed to get more HPs or fuel economy with these? We should be able to find some specs or some sort of comparisons with the stock ones, on the web. Anyway if you try them let me know the final results. :notify:[/quote]

You just get the igniters. http://www.fc3s-pro.com has information about upgraded coils. My curiosity got the better of me, and I bought an MSD 6A this morning. At first it didn't seem to do anything, but that was because I forgot to plug the coil back in. After I plugged it in the idle seemed smoother, and the car revved a little easier. I could see that the spark was alot stronger when I pulled the plug boots off of the coil.
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Old 04-17-2002, 03:58 PM
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Wow, that's a beast

You're gonna blow your plugs!

As it draws about 10 amps, it's probably connected directly to the battery, or you're using the same wiring? I saw the specs and it sounds great (45000 volts). Since we needs 2 coils, did you have 2 of them? and how much?

If you get great results, I'm buying.
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Old 04-17-2002, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Powerpack' date='April 17 2002,16:58
Wow, that's a beast

You're gonna blow your plugs!

As it draws about 10 amps, it's probably connected directly to the battery, or you're using the same wiring? I saw the specs and it sounds great (45000 volts). Since we needs 2 coils, did you have 2 of them? and how much?

If you get great results, I'm buying.
Yes, you wire it directly to the battery. The leading ignition only has 1 coil, but the trailing has 2. So if you do the leading you need 1. If you do the trailing you need 2.
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Old 04-17-2002, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Powerpack' date='April 17 2002,16:58
Wow, that's a beast

You're gonna blow your plugs!

As it draws about 10 amps, it's probably connected directly to the battery, or you're using the same wiring? I saw the specs and it sounds great (45000 volts). Since we needs 2 coils, did you have 2 of them? and how much?

If you get great results, I'm buying.
Yes, you wire it directly to the battery. The leading ignition only has 1 coil, but the trailing has 2. So if you do the leading you need 1. If you do the trailing you need 2.
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