Reverse Cowl Hood Finally Painted
11-07-2003, 05:02 PM
#33
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 161
yes i used mold release.......**** didnt work so ive used pva every now and then and the pro ive been talking to said used pva the first time then afetr that stick with wax........im just to paranoid after the wreck i had the first time to not usa PVA at least once on the mold
11-07-2003, 05:16 PM
#34
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,108
Originally Posted by pengaru' date='Nov 4 2003, 01:44 PM
hahahah
wtf are you smoking? Yeah, some people make cheap CF parts with a outer CF skin over a FG structure, but those are cheap pieces of junk
carbon fiber is not the same as glass fiber, they are different materials, why don't you do some research on the subject before you propagate stupidity.
wtf are you smoking? Yeah, some people make cheap CF parts with a outer CF skin over a FG structure, but those are cheap pieces of junk
carbon fiber is not the same as glass fiber, they are different materials, why don't you do some research on the subject before you propagate stupidity.
11-07-2003, 05:52 PM
#35
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: IL
Posts: 2,930
Originally Posted by Cheers!' date='Nov 7 2003, 11:16 PM
[quote name='pengaru' date='Nov 4 2003, 01:44 PM'] hahahah
wtf are you smoking? Yeah, some people make cheap CF parts with a outer CF skin over a FG structure, but those are cheap pieces of junk
carbon fiber is not the same as glass fiber, they are different materials, why don't you do some research on the subject before you propagate stupidity.
wtf are you smoking? Yeah, some people make cheap CF parts with a outer CF skin over a FG structure, but those are cheap pieces of junk
carbon fiber is not the same as glass fiber, they are different materials, why don't you do some research on the subject before you propagate stupidity.
Nobody mentioned using pre-preg carbon fiber. Pre-preg is not the only form carbon fiber fabrics are available in. There is such a thing as wet lay up which can be used just fine with carbon fiber and epoxy resins, and is how most hobbyists will use for carbon fiber, fiberglass, or aramid (kevlar) fabrics.
You, my friend, should read your post again, perhaps it's been too long since you posted, this last post of yours is first mention of dry/prepreg in this thread.
Originally Posted by Cheers!' date='Nov 3 2003, 02:49 AM
carbon fibre is fireglass... they just use a clear epoxy resisn on the last layer and use carbon fibre texture fibreglass weave.
That statement is quite simply 100% false, there are plenty of books available on composites, many tailored specifically for DIY & high performance automotive use. I suggest you go buy or check one out at the library.
11-10-2003, 10:25 PM
#37
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Amityville, New York
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Originally Posted by dltreezan' date='Nov 8 2003, 03:11 AM
what are advantages of using styrene monomer and approximately how long does it take for tooling resin to cure and what are its flexibility properties?
You dont need it to make the mold, or to make a part from a mold, it hinders
the mold making process and slows down curing.
Tooling gel allows a bit more gel to be put into a mold so it wont crack, and its
a bit easier to sand and polish afterwords. Remember you have to polish a mold
to a mirror like finish if you want the parts to come out nice, and if you want
the parts to come out of the mold at all.
You need to stiffen a mold so it wont warp under the heat of curing fiberglass.
You also cannot lay up a whole hood in one shot, too much heat. You stiffen
a mold with some wood or even some cardboard tubes with some heavy duty glass on them.
3 stage lay-up at the least.
Sprayed gel coat with no wax or any reducers added, gel coat guns are cheap, but messy, allow it to cure, apply one layer of 3/4 OZ FG mat, allow that to cure, then you can add 2-3 layers of 1.5 oz mat. I dont know how thick you are making these? How did you make the underside and what did you add to the hood where
the hinges bolt up? Of course you need to steel roller the glass to remove air and excess resin. You MUST use laminating resin by the way.
Please post some pics of the underside.
11-11-2003, 01:44 AM
#38
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 161
as far as the mold goes i did a simple layer of 1.5zoz matting with a layer of coremat and then some e cloth, the thick weave and then backed it up with a wooden backbone and used foam to adhese it, which was a mistake because once its in place it puts a small flex even if there is room for it to move, and i didnt sand or polish anything on this mold as there is no use at this point because it is a clean copy of my NA hood that i only plan on pulling maybe three parts from maximum and then with one of the clean NA hoods ill mod for a plug for my new design and from there i will make the investment of having a kickass clean mold that ill sand the hell out of and spend the extra hundrd dollars reinforcing, plus most people that are getting my products know that the shop is going to prime it anyhow so having the surface 100 percent isnt totaly necesarry for at this stage, its still a hobby and not a profession and i can only build as the money comes in. Now if i was wanting to pull out perfect parts from a mold ready to paint then yes it would be a different story. As far as my lay up process goes im getting **** sick of mat, just soaks up resin with not enough strength so im experimenting. Right now i layed up veil mat with a cloth and then a coremat which i soaked the hell out of, and then cloth on top of that...im trying to see how light i can get with strength, then i take the mold of the partial bottom side (everything except the center) and glas it to the bottom of the skin, then i am going to add the scoop and then use e cloth over the whole gap and was thinking of glassing in rope as reinforcement going across the bottom at certain points to add strength.
