Cheers!

Ok symptoms are:

-revs climb like mad in 3rd gear whenever approaching Boost

-starting to slip in 2nd at WOT

-i hear whirrling noise when clutch pedal is depressed

-i have hard time getting car into 1st at times, to solve this i have to throw it a bit into 2nd and then push forward into 1st

-sometimes when coming to stop sign and i leave car in 1st gear and coast to stop with clutch pedal depressed, car will almost want to stall, i pull the shift lever and try to get neutral, but shift lever needs force to get of first, even with clutch pedal all the way down,

when i finally get into neutral i hear clunk sound as tranny disengages 1st and into neutral.

-somtimes when shifting into 3rd gear the tranny will have like a hiccup grind, but most of the time it goes in smoothly.

-clutch pedal squeeks when moved up and down

-clutch has high engagement point

-car shudders/shakes when moving frmo a stop





-so to combat all these problems:



-new clutch is being isntalled

-FD flywheel machined (i have s5 tII, yes it will work!)

-new pilot bearing

-new release bearing

-new front cover

-new tranny seals (front and rear)

-new tranny cross member

-new tranny mounts (mazdatrix competition stiff)

-new clutch master cyl

-new clutch slave

-new clutch hose



I know the above will solve my clutch slipping problems, but will it solve my problems of shifting... the tranny doesn't grind...



i thinking that my clutch release fork is FUBAR, should i go ahead and replace that too? or are the "OTHER" problems associated with the need to rebuild my transmission?



-Jason

Cheers!

what are the chances of the clutch release fork being bad?

vosko

i think you got eveything



make sure you get a SS clutch hose from corksport etc

pengaru

the other problems sound like just a tired high mileage tranny, an overhaul may be in order... sycros are probably showing their wear, and if you hear that whine in neutral with the clutch engaged you may need bearings too, how does the trans sound on deceleration (in gear, clutch engaged) if it whines loudly, it's likely you need bearings.... you could get anothe trans from a junk yard and have someplace overhaul it while you use the tired one, then just swap them one day.

Baldy

after reading this, I'm thinking my trans might need an overhaul, and my clutch is reaching its limits



my question: what the typical price range for an n/a tranny overhaul?

j9fd3s

almost zero. its more likely to be a clutch hydralic problem. intermittant notchiness seems to be normal, or it might just need fresh oil. the turbo boxes like to get noisy but it doesnt seem to affect anything else.



mike

Cheers!

no whirling noises on decel... it has fresh Redline MT-90 put in just before winter storage last year.



What i did notice is that the clutch fluid (hydraulic fluid/DOT3 fluid is black)



new symptom i'm starting to notice, if i start the car, put in reverse to leave, when i goes into reverse i hear clunk and at the same time a metal to metal grinding sound.



It scares me... it has only does this 3 times... at first i thought i had no pushed the clutch pedal all teh way before selecting reverse, but this time i was sure i stepped on the clutch pedal fully

j9fd3s

there no synchro on reverse, and the tranny guts are still spinning when you go to put it reverse. solution, 1st has a synchro, so put clutch in put it in 1st to stop the guts ofr the tranny and then go for reverse



mike

Cheers!

but if you look on page J2-3 of the 1989 Mazda Rx-7 Factory service manual

it says in the table:



Item/Transmission Model:

Sunchronization Mechansim



then the next column reads



R-Type:

Forward: Syncromesh

Reverse: Syncromesh



?????

j9fd3s

oh, i cant remeber when they added it, i was thinking fd, it still acts the same though



mike