Replacing Brakes - Need Part Suggestions
#11
Originally Posted by spooliNrx7' date='Jun 1 2004, 01:04 PM
I dont know what you guys are talking about when you say that the Hawk HPS pads are quiet...? I had them on my car when i bought it and if i wasnt slamming on the brakes they were screaming and hollering so loud it hurt the ears. I have brembo slotted and cross drilled rotors too if that makes any difference, but i would NOT recomend the Hawk HPS pads.
#13
Originally Posted by FCmaniac' date='Jun 1 2004, 03:47 PM
As long as they're bedded in right per Hawk's instructions, they shouldn't be noisy. I've had 5 autocross days on the HP+ now and they still don't squeal at all. I beat on them too.
#14
Originally Posted by spooliNrx7' date='Jun 1 2004, 03:04 PM
I dont know what you guys are talking about when you say that the Hawk HPS pads are quiet...? I had them on my car when i bought it and if i wasnt slamming on the brakes they were screaming and hollering so loud it hurt the ears. I have brembo slotted and cross drilled rotors too if that makes any difference, but i would NOT recomend the Hawk HPS pads.
#15
K, looking at a set of Brembo rotors. Is slotted really worth the extra $55/set? I know how they work in theory, venting gasses without the stress points of drilled rotors, but does it actually make a difference in the real world? When I really use my brakes, it's generally hard, and usually from a high speed (not all the time, but I downshift to slow when possible, and coast into lights most of the time). Think "Milwaukee highway driving during rush hour."
Anyone have feelings +/- about Brembo rotors?
Also, are stainless steel brake lines worth it? Personally I like a rather stiff brake pedal, which I understand SS lines help with.
-=Russ=-
Anyone have feelings +/- about Brembo rotors?
Also, are stainless steel brake lines worth it? Personally I like a rather stiff brake pedal, which I understand SS lines help with.
-=Russ=-
#16
I know people will argue but I don't think slotted/drilled rotors are necessary at all. Most of todays pads don't release much of the gasses that used to cause the pads to float. The rotor is a big heatsink and the more metal you take away from it, the less it can cool.. thats the reason they crack quicker than regular rotors. I'd just go OE replacement rotors.
#17
when i upgraded my brake system last summer, i put in a new master cylinder (not that pricey, and it was original and i figured it might go soon), changed all lines to stainless steel braided, and upgraded the pads to the bones from rx7.com (rotary performance).
I LOVE MY BRAKES NOW! they are firm and very responsive, but not too touchy. all force you put into the pedal goes into the wheels, with no losses in the master cylinder, and no line flexing, and no pad fade.
if you want a good upgrade, get calipers and rotors off of a GTU or Turbo II. that is one of the best stock brake systems in a car. then, upgrade the lines to SS braided (earl's from mazdatrix.com), and get some aftermarket pads.
I LOVE MY BRAKES NOW! they are firm and very responsive, but not too touchy. all force you put into the pedal goes into the wheels, with no losses in the master cylinder, and no line flexing, and no pad fade.
if you want a good upgrade, get calipers and rotors off of a GTU or Turbo II. that is one of the best stock brake systems in a car. then, upgrade the lines to SS braided (earl's from mazdatrix.com), and get some aftermarket pads.
#18
i might as well add some links and the total cost of my upgrade:
1. OEM replacement master cylinder- $136.06
2. Stainless steel brake lines - DOT approved - $84
3. Bonez Stage 1 4 pistons Front and Single piston Rear Pads - $65 each x 2 = $130
TOTAL COST: ~$350
1. OEM replacement master cylinder- $136.06
2. Stainless steel brake lines - DOT approved - $84
3. Bonez Stage 1 4 pistons Front and Single piston Rear Pads - $65 each x 2 = $130
TOTAL COST: ~$350
#19
Originally Posted by FCmaniac' date='Jun 4 2004, 12:19 PM
I know people will argue but I don't think slotted/drilled rotors are necessary at all. Most of todays pads don't release much of the gasses that used to cause the pads to float. The rotor is a big heatsink and the more metal you take away from it, the less it can cool.. thats the reason they crack quicker than regular rotors. I'd just go OE replacement rotors.
-=Russ=-
#20
Pads make the biggest difference. I think pads and fluid are the most important to avoid fade. You don't want the pads to overheat or the fluid to boil. This causes fade. If you've ever overheated your stock brakes and they fade you know what I mean. They can't handle the heat and they lose bite. The HP+ pads I have feel like they stop better the hotter I get them (to an extent). Drilled/slotted replacement (stock size) rotors for us are cosmetic. Again, just my opinion but read on the net or call Carbotech Engineering and talk to Matt. They're really helpful and know a lot about brakes.