2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

Rear Main Seal

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Old 01-13-2006, 11:29 PM
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I have found out the the nasty leak now in my car is oil leaking from the rear main seal. Now I could pay $500 and have the local shop do it or do it myself. I am wondering the difficutly of replacing it. The haynes manuel makes it look very easy. But the shop said it was difficult. I know what I am doing for most of my projects. I must have dislodged it when I replaced my clutch and flywheel two weeks ago. I just want to know if any of you have done this and if its that hard to do. THanks.
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Old 01-14-2006, 12:09 AM
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also, I can't find a rear main seal on mazdatrix. I know they would sell one. Does anyone know where i can buy one from. Thanks.
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Old 01-14-2006, 01:04 AM
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Do it yourself, if you trust urself, never havea shop do it unless you really trust them and you know they know what they are doing.
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Old 01-14-2006, 09:03 AM
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I trust them. They specialize in rotarys. But they are expensive.
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Old 01-14-2006, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by donhayes' post='794091' date='Jan 14 2006, 10:03 AM

I trust them. They specialize in rotarys. But they are expensive.




You have to drop the trans and pull the flywheel. Once the flywheel is out the rear main pops right out and the new one right back in. It's not worth $500 in labor but be prepared to wrestle with the flywheel nut if you not properly prepared with tools.



http://www.mazdatrix.com/b2.htm



Under the section front and rear main seals.
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Old 01-14-2006, 01:06 PM
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thanks guys. I ordered two seals just in case and Hopefully it stops the leak.
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Old 01-14-2006, 05:12 PM
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It's very easy to install.. Just use common sense..



Drop the transmission, support the back of the engine, pull the flywheel nut and pull the flywheel.



It's not too bad really, but you'll need an impact gun on the flywheel nut. 1/2" drive one will zip it off no problem. Just use adapters for the big socket. The flywheel can usually be a pain to slip off the shaft (don't lose the key either during the process), but the best way to break it free is not to reef on it with wood or anything to pry it, just shock load it on a non-friction surface. Hit it with a hammer a few times on the casting surface and it will usually pop right off. Like literally, so watch yourself. You won't believe it will pop off like that if you've been struggling to pry it off and it won't budge. After that you can just pry the old seal out with a screwdriver. Clean the area decently, line up the new one and gently tap it in circles with a rubber mallet slowly putting it into place. Don't let it get ****-eyed too much or else you will ruin it.



Seal replacement itself takes seconds and is very easy. Pretty much all you have to worry about is dropping the transmission and removing the flywheel.



Just remember to retorque the nut to spec. And DO NOT overtorque the flywheel nut. More torque on it is not neccessarily better, it will throw the engine balance off... I'd use the lowest spec in the book with some blue loc-tite, myself.
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Old 01-14-2006, 07:34 PM
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I figured out of all people you would know how to work on engines.



Just goes to show.
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Old 01-15-2006, 04:25 PM
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you see, I've never torn apart my engine. But my brothers truck, well I helped him drop in a new 3.4l V6 that we built. Sorry to let you down.
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Old 01-16-2006, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by donhayes' post='794050' date='Jan 14 2006, 12:29 AM
I must have dislodged it when I replaced my clutch and flywheel two weeks ago. I just want to know if any of you have done this and if its that hard to do. THanks.


Did you try to heat the nut to get it off? Overheat clutch from slipping? If you did, that could have killed the seal.



Anyway, now that you have taken the F/W off already, it should be easy.





And change the pilot bearing if you havnt recently..
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