j0rd4n

My water pump and housing replacement (thanks RotaryVillain for the link! ) is on its way now, and I figured I could pull off the old one right now since I'll have a few hours each night over the next few days I could spend if I needed to before it came in.



I'm looking at the FSM, and it all seems pretty straight-forward, but I'm wondering if they're ignoring some things which are obvious to them which I might not understand...



Removal and installation:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. (pretty straight forward)

2. Turn the eccentric shaft so that the top mark of the pulley is aligned with the indicator pin. (is the pin easy to see? is it as simple as just turning it by hand?)

3. Drain the negine coolant from the radiator drain plug. (easy enough)

4. Remove in the sequence shown in the figure. (do I need any special tools other than my socket set and some wrenches? Is pulling off the belts a really tough job?)

jwteknix

dude its all very easy and u should not have a problem tackling it ur self

j0rd4n

Well thanks for making me feel better about it. :-) I feel like I'm mechanically inclined enough when it comes to stuff like this (building PC's, doing maintenance/support for in-house tester equipment we use to test pumps and stuff where I work), but when it comes to something new I'm always treading lightly because I don't want to do what I did to the first computer I tried to update (overwritten BIOS=trash unless you have the skills to solder a new chip in yourself ;D).

teknics

turning the eccentric shaft requires like a 19mm socket and a ratchet. Also be sure that you turn it clockwise (when looking at the motor head on)



you want to align the yellow mark on the pulley with the little needle thing sticking out (its directly on top of the main pulley, sticking out of the front cover, cant miss it).



the reason for this is you cant take the WP pulley off without taking off the main pulley. To take off the main pulley just remove the (4) 10mm bolts DO NOT REMOVE THE 19MM BOLT YOU USED TO TURN THE PULLEY.



after that its simple as pie.



kevin.

j0rd4n

DUDE, WHY DIDN'T YOU SAY THAT BEFORE, hahahaha



I WAS HAVING TO TURN IT BY HAND! loosening the fan bolts were soooo tough, cause i couldn't figure out an easy way to stop it from turning. eventually i got it by using the other bolts on it as leverage.



removing this stuff was pretty tough in the dark (flashlight only), but i finally got the air pump, alt, water pump off, just had a few questions for you guys



first, what are these 4 red line things that are screwed in the area under the water pump? i had to unscrew them to be able to get the water pump out (the lower rad hose hookup was hooked on it, and i couldn't get it around any other way). they were oily...



second, now that i've already pulled the air pump and stuff, is it worth my while to just order a set of block-off plates and do the rats nest removal? i live in NC, which i'm told has one of the better laws on emissions for pre-96 cars, and the car passed inspection last may, so i would think that it would still pass with the rats next removal?



so yea, i'm learning a LOT about cars by doing all this work. i wish i could find my camera, you should see this water pump neck, the corrosion is...not good

teknics

i think the oily 4 things youre speaking of are the OMP Lines (oil metering pump) careful not to break those, very fragile and very important to your motor.



i hate the airpump and rats nest, its the first thing to go on all my rotaries, its a personal choice, but it simplifies the car so much when you do it that you wont regret it.



kevin.

j0rd4n

while reading the rats nest removal writeup, i can def see how you'll need a double-belt pulley because you can easily tell how much easier it'll slip. unfortunately it says i have to remove my cats now if i do the air pump removal, right?



actually, i might want to keep the air pump now because i've got an s5 intake (box to block setup) coming my way (hooray for better flow), and it says i'll need that for proper vdi function. maybe you can correct me if i'm wrong or if there's a way around that

teknics

yea without the airpump your cats will clog pretty quickly.



yea the s5 setup requires the airpump for 6-port actuation.



oh and congratulations on doing the waterpump and waterpump housing, make sure you get all the air out of the system before beating on it to be safe. Basically fill it with coolant and let it run for a while and itll suck the coolant down, then add some more, etc, im sure you read about it already.



sit back and have a beer or vice of your choice for a job well done, and on a side note, the rotary bug has you now prepare to empty your wallet



kevin.

j0rd4n

haha, thanks. the way i figure it is...my wallet always seems to be empty, so why not put that money towards something i really enjoy



got the new waterpump and housing in today; gotta say it's in really good shape compared to my prior one. i'll be putting it on tomorrow after work.



i guess i'll be re-attaching the air pump since i don't have the parts needed (straight pipe plus welding skills, heh) to remove the cats just yet. i might start looking into an electronic signal, of sorts, for the s5 intake actuation. we'll just see how it goes. my first priority is to get the water pump back in and running, of course.

j0rd4n

does anyone have a specific autozone/adavance auto parts part number that i could use as a replacement for the coolant bypass hose? i had to cut it when removing the water pump as i was unable to remove it, even with the rest of the pump moved out as much as possible (i don't believe it's ever been replaced, it had the stock tension-style clamps on it, and it was worn in that even when i squeezed them, it wouldn't come out of its groove...). so i need to get that back on before i get the water pump on and everything



oh yea, and the water thermo sensor connector that's next to it? yea, well the housing was cracked and missing half of it, so i'm not even sure it was plugged in!!! is this linked directly to the water temp gauge? i'm wondering if that's why i had spotty temp readings at times