question about the TB mod
11-25-2002, 07:44 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: IL
Posts: 2,930
I paid $35 to a local welding shop to have them TIG weld a bunch of holes in my intake parts, included were the holes left from double throttle removal from the TB, the hole I created in the TB primary bore when porting (visible in the link in above post..), the oil injector holes in the LIM, another hole i made in the LIM primary port runner (one of them) where there was a bump to clear a bolt for the ACV which I grinded off... and the aux port actuator holes. Oh, and not to mention the holes in the UIM for the sub-zero cold start assist.
Next I get to dremel all the welds and blend it all in like the holes were never there. $35 is relatively cheap for something that is never going to flake/chip from the gas/oil/heat... I strongly recommend finding a good local welder.
Next I get to dremel all the welds and blend it all in like the holes were never there. $35 is relatively cheap for something that is never going to flake/chip from the gas/oil/heat... I strongly recommend finding a good local welder.
11-25-2002, 09:42 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 10,906
Originally Posted by pengaru' date='Nov 25 2002, 08:44 PM
I paid $35 to a local welding shop to have them TIG weld a bunch of holes in my intake parts, included were the holes left from double throttle removal from the TB, the hole I created in the TB primary bore when porting (visible in the link in above post..), the oil injector holes in the LIM, another hole i made in the LIM primary port runner (one of them) where there was a bump to clear a bolt for the ACV which I grinded off... and the aux port actuator holes. Oh, and not to mention the holes in the UIM for the sub-zero cold start assist.
Next I get to dremel all the welds and blend it all in like the holes were never there. $35 is relatively cheap for something that is never going to flake/chip from the gas/oil/heat... I strongly recommend finding a good local welder.
Next I get to dremel all the welds and blend it all in like the holes were never there. $35 is relatively cheap for something that is never going to flake/chip from the gas/oil/heat... I strongly recommend finding a good local welder.
11-26-2002, 02:15 AM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Lynnwood, WA
Posts: 3,097
Originally Posted by hayas-fc' date='Nov 25 2002, 09:10 PM
do you have to remove the shaft? or is it ok to leave it there? i took out the 2ndary butterflies this weekend but didnt have time to remove the shaft, can i leave it or will it mess something up?
11-26-2002, 06:31 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: IL
Posts: 2,930
Just have the holes TIG welded shut from the inside and you can grind it down smooth & seamless.
1revvin7:
I have pictures, but they are still on the camera, I will download them when I get to work and post a url... They are of the unfinished welds though so it's nothing pretty, the welds are nice and heavy so it should turn out nice after I attack with the dremel.
TurboII:
The car is coming along, I'm just waiting on one more tension bolt from mazdatrix, they sent me two M bolts on accident (mazda mispackaged one of them), so I have to swap one when it arrives. They are also sending me the competition torrington bearings... after end play is set it shouldnt be much longer before the motor goes into the car, unless, of course, the car is buried in snow :rant: ... oh and if I decide to order an ECU before the car goes in, I'll be removing the CAS gear from the eccentric shaft... which will probably require going back to that machine shop and having them make me a sleeve to take the gears' place on the shaft... which I'm sure will put me right into winter... so I'll probably hold off on the computer for spring.
1revvin7:
I have pictures, but they are still on the camera, I will download them when I get to work and post a url... They are of the unfinished welds though so it's nothing pretty, the welds are nice and heavy so it should turn out nice after I attack with the dremel.
TurboII:
The car is coming along, I'm just waiting on one more tension bolt from mazdatrix, they sent me two M bolts on accident (mazda mispackaged one of them), so I have to swap one when it arrives. They are also sending me the competition torrington bearings... after end play is set it shouldnt be much longer before the motor goes into the car, unless, of course, the car is buried in snow :rant: ... oh and if I decide to order an ECU before the car goes in, I'll be removing the CAS gear from the eccentric shaft... which will probably require going back to that machine shop and having them make me a sleeve to take the gears' place on the shaft... which I'm sure will put me right into winter... so I'll probably hold off on the computer for spring.
11-26-2002, 06:36 AM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: IL
Posts: 2,930
Originally Posted by hayas-fc' date='Nov 26 2002, 04:10 AM
do you have to remove the shaft? or is it ok to leave it there? i took out the 2ndary butterflies this weekend but didnt have time to remove the shaft, can i leave it or will it mess something up?
http://yp.yahoo.com
input your zip code & search for welding
11-26-2002, 07:12 AM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 10,906
Originally Posted by Geoffman72' date='Nov 26 2002, 03:46 AM
Yes, for sure buy the plugs and tap them. Ive heard stories of people who used JB Weld sucking them into the engine 
