g_dripht-alex

crap im probably gonna have to do this either tomorrow night or sunday during the day...i had stupid court today. i think the gas/coolant/oil reacted in the bucket cuase i felt like i was gonna die last night when i came inside after being in the garage for about 4 and a half hours.

89 Rag

It's really not that hard to remove/install the engine and trans as a married unit. The radiator should be out as well as the ps/ac bracket and components. Jack the front of the car up, support w/ stands. (you'll need the jack in a minute)









Support the rear of the trans w/ jack, then remove rear trans crossmember from trans and chassis. Remove (3) motor mount bolts that run through the pan and the single nut on the plugs side. The chain on the cherry picker needs to be adjusted like this...



At this point the engine can be pulled out and the trans will follow ( with some adjustment to the jack) It can be a one man job and go smoothly with a little patients and, as far as I'm concerned, it beats the hell out of trying to fumble w/ all the damn housing bolts

g_dripht-alex

hell yeah. thats what i was lookin for. thanks alot, i guess the tranny's comin out to. much appreciated...just wondering where did you attach the hoist...

pengaru

I really prefer taking them out seperately, doing them as one can be tough sometimes to avoid scratching things like the torque tunnel... I've never had a major problem with the bolts on the bell housing, I just use a rachet from underneath to get all the bolts except for the top 2 and the one nut on the center top bolt... without trouble.



then on the top two I just use a box end wrench with a second wrench interlocked into the open end for more leverage, it works every time. Last engine I pulled my wife undid the top bolts using this method... if she can do it



just gotta remember to use mechanical advantage, if it's difficult, make the lever longer!

j9fd3s

give me a longer lever and i can move the world? i did that like twice this week, still have all my fingers too

vosko

its easier to put back in with the trans on it....

FrestyleFC3S

yeah but what about all your toes!

89 Rag

The stock engine has two brackets that are usually bolted to the first plate and the last, I have found it's o.k. to move one from the rear to the middle plate so the chain will allow you to achieve the right geometry to get the unit(s) out. The "brackets" will bend a little, just make sure you use some grade 6 or better bolts, better safe than sorry.



It is true, like vosko said, installing is easier than removing, but with an extra set of hands, it should be easy.

g_dripht-alex

i dont even think i have those brackets...cuase i looked in the FSM and it said to do the same thing and i had no clue what it was talking about. could they be removed? possibly the previous owner removed them?

FrestyleFC3S

the brackets are on the front and rear plates for NA cars only





on the turbo cars theyre on the UIM and rats nest elbow on the driver side of the engine



if youve removed your rats nest you have removed one of the brackets





what i did to remove it and drop back in was take a chain and attach it to one of the downpipe studs, and bolt it on there....then on the ps/ac studs where the plate went, bolt the chain there



then adjust the chain at teh top where the hook is on the lift....then level it when you have to