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I had the same problem on my vert. the pulley system is fucked up in the door, so i had to taken the interior cover off, reach in there and pull the cable off the pulley. Since the motor wont move the window because the cables are so messed up I just have it floating now. I have found that the door provides enough friction to keep the window up when I pull it up, but I can push it down when I get in the car without it going allt he way into the door. However thats because the cable is jammed so it wont go down passed 1/4 way. Without the cable being jammed it will go all the way into the door.
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Originally Posted by Midnightdriver' post='840477' date='Oct 11 2006, 07:47 PM
Ask 1Revven7 his buddy Nick has and fc with manual roll up windows. how would that help? the whole window system is 100% different between rollup and power window systems. kevin. |
Originally Posted by teknics' post='840781' date='Oct 13 2006, 03:09 PM
how would that help? the whole window system is 100% different between rollup and power window systems. kevin. It will help because his windows were power windows before. He converted them. Guess I should have put that in before. |
Arsehats! My windows were fine until youse guys started this thread! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif
My friend and I were out driving today and he puts the pass. window down. We get to the beer store, and it won't go up. Poop! Get home, do an oil change and get out the shop manual. Remove the door panel. There's a two-wire coupler that has the wires for the motor. If you apply 12v. to these terminals, the motor should run the window up or down, depending on the polarity. Window is now up, and the switch is presumed bad. I have yet to run through the (simple) diagnostic on the switch, since I don't have three hands. I gotta find some alligator clips! If you don't have a shop manual, get one! Working without one is like trying to calculate pi*[(sinY*cosX/tanZ^3)^2]-3 with a pencil and paper. In the dark. Under water. |
Update: The problem is with the drivers side switch. The pass. one checks out fine. There was no continuity between terminals a and c, and there should have been. I pulled the switch apart and found a lot of carbon and some wear on the contacts. Cleaning the contacts with a pencil eraser worked okay, but it's still a little flaky. I think I'll be investing in a new switch. Wonder what the dealer gets for them? 100 bux?
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212.65 RETAIL PRICE AT DEALERS
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Originally Posted by 1988RedT2' post='842000' date='Oct 21 2006, 11:03 AM
Arsehats! My windows were fine until youse guys started this thread! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif My friend and I were out driving today and he puts the pass. window down. We get to the beer store, and it won't go up. Poop! Get home, do an oil change and get out the shop manual. Remove the door panel. There's a two-wire coupler that has the wires for the motor. If you apply 12v. to these terminals, the motor should run the window up or down, depending on the polarity. Window is now up, and the switch is presumed bad. I have yet to run through the (simple) diagnostic on the switch, since I don't have three hands. I gotta find some alligator clips! If you don't have a shop manual, get one! Working without one is like trying to calculate pi*[(sinY*cosX/tanZ^3)^2]-3 with a pencil and paper. In the dark. Under water. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif |
Originally Posted by NotalesS' post='842026' date='Oct 21 2006, 06:15 PM
212.65 RETAIL PRICE AT DEALERS Ay Carumba! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif |
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