RotaryRocket219

Anybody have a link to removing the power steering pump and lines....and looping or capping them (I've heard so many different ways.



Hears what I've heard:



Remove pump, and all ines to rack...turn the rack from stop to stop both ways with wheel so most of the fluid will come out...then just cap off the lines. What do you cap the lines of with? Where? At the rack inself? Any help is greatly appreciated.



Thanks

RotorBalls

I need to do this removal alsol. Mine is leaking again and I'm not paying tons of money to have someone replace it like I did years ago. So any info anyone could provide would be beneficial to me as well.

FCmaniac

Pengaru can answer this one... I just ended up switching to manual (actually half way done).

cymfc3s

I used a manual rack when i removed my PS. If your going to keep the stock lines all you need to do is loop the lines so the fluid has a place to go when you crank the wheel over.

RotaryRocket219

ive read that capping the lines works fine too....as long as your turn the wheel a bit form side to side with the lines open...to get most of the fluid out. Im doing this w/the motor in the car by the way.

pengaru

hah, thanks fcmaniac :P



I just removed the pump, all the lines, the PS cooler line included etc... and then took one of the lines that go along the rack and bent it around to go into the hole at the other side of the rack, the fittings are the same at both ends... so it works fine.



Then I cut off the ends of the lines removed from the rack that went to the pump previously, and used a small torch to weld shut the ends of the lines (I left like 1.5 inches of line just so the fitting would still work/seal)



on the two banjo bolts I welded the hole at the ends shut, and put em back in with the banjo left on them but the line hacked off.



everythings sealed up, no leaks, and it steers like butter.





you can try forcing all the fluid out then plugging the holes, but I doubt you will get all the fluid out, and there will probably still be enough in the rack for a good seal between the piston and the cylinder... so you will be compressing air when you steer, and eventually it will probably start leaking somewhere. Even if you could get every last bit of fluid out making it a possibility for the air to pass around the piston (still not optimal), you will now have outside air in the rack before you plug it up, which will contain moisture. And since you somehow managed to get it all dry, the moisture will cause corrosion. This is just a bad way of doing it.



It's better to just loop it, you don't even have to buy anything if you have a torch, some line wrenches, and a hack saw or pipe cutter. I've also read of some other modifications people have done to the valve to make the mod more reliable, but I'm not sure how necessary it is.



PM me if you need more details, I can probably take some pics.



BTW, in case you didnt already know, the PS rack has a quicker ratio than the manual rack, so there is some benefit to doing it this way over switching to the manual... although it requires more effort, especially in parking lots. But it is definately easier to turn than it will be just removing the PS belt or plugging the holes.

RotorBalls

great info Pics would be cool :bigthumg:

vosko

my old TII has a manual rack in it

j9fd3s

i find the manual rack a tad slow and its a one hander even while parking



mike

cymfc3s

the manual rack in the yellow car is one of the 10 best mods i did.