NoPistons -Mazda Rx7 & Rx8 Rotary Forum

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-   -   Power Steering Removal (https://www.nopistons.com/2nd-generation-specific-17/power-steering-removal-11343/)

RotaryRocket219 01-28-2003 01:11 AM

Anybody have a link to removing the power steering pump and lines....and looping or capping them (I've heard so many different ways.



Hears what I've heard:



Remove pump, and all ines to rack...turn the rack from stop to stop both ways with wheel so most of the fluid will come out...then just cap off the lines. What do you cap the lines of with? Where? At the rack inself? Any help is greatly appreciated.



Thanks

RotorBalls 01-28-2003 11:41 AM

I need to do this removal alsol. Mine is leaking again and I'm not paying tons of money to have someone replace it like I did years ago. So any info anyone could provide would be beneficial to me as well.

FCmaniac 01-28-2003 11:45 AM

Pengaru can answer this one... I just ended up switching to manual (actually half way done).

cymfc3s 01-28-2003 11:55 AM

I used a manual rack when i removed my PS. If your going to keep the stock lines all you need to do is loop the lines so the fluid has a place to go when you crank the wheel over.

RotaryRocket219 01-29-2003 01:48 AM

ive read that capping the lines works fine too....as long as your turn the wheel a bit form side to side with the lines open...to get most of the fluid out. Im doing this w/the motor in the car by the way.

pengaru 01-29-2003 01:56 AM


Originally Posted by RotaryRocket219' date='Jan 29 2003, 07:48 AM
ive read that capping the lines works fine too....as long as your turn the wheel a bit form side to side with the lines open...to get most of the fluid out. Im doing this w/the motor in the car by the way.

hah, thanks fcmaniac :P



I just removed the pump, all the lines, the PS cooler line included etc... and then took one of the lines that go along the rack and bent it around to go into the hole at the other side of the rack, the fittings are the same at both ends... so it works fine.



Then I cut off the ends of the lines removed from the rack that went to the pump previously, and used a small torch to weld shut the ends of the lines (I left like 1.5 inches of line just so the fitting would still work/seal)



on the two banjo bolts I welded the hole at the ends shut, and put em back in with the banjo left on them but the line hacked off.



everythings sealed up, no leaks, and it steers like butter.





you can try forcing all the fluid out then plugging the holes, but I doubt you will get all the fluid out, and there will probably still be enough in the rack for a good seal between the piston and the cylinder... so you will be compressing air when you steer, and eventually it will probably start leaking somewhere. Even if you could get every last bit of fluid out making it a possibility for the air to pass around the piston (still not optimal), you will now have outside air in the rack before you plug it up, which will contain moisture. And since you somehow managed to get it all dry, the moisture will cause corrosion. This is just a bad way of doing it.



It's better to just loop it, you don't even have to buy anything if you have a torch, some line wrenches, and a hack saw or pipe cutter. I've also read of some other modifications people have done to the valve to make the mod more reliable, but I'm not sure how necessary it is.



PM me if you need more details, I can probably take some pics.



BTW, in case you didnt already know, the PS rack has a quicker ratio than the manual rack, so there is some benefit to doing it this way over switching to the manual... although it requires more effort, especially in parking lots. But it is definately easier to turn than it will be just removing the PS belt or plugging the holes.

RotorBalls 01-29-2003 10:14 AM

great info https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif Pics would be cool :bigthumg:

vosko 01-29-2003 10:19 AM

my old TII has a manual rack in it

j9fd3s 01-29-2003 12:08 PM

i find the manual rack a tad slow and its a one hander even while parking



mike

cymfc3s 01-29-2003 01:15 PM

the manual rack in the yellow car is one of the 10 best mods i did.

RotaryRocket219 01-29-2003 07:34 PM

ok..i have my pump out...and i can see where all of the lines are...you know how there are the two lines that go to the pump from the top, and the one at the bottom...can't you just loop the two lines together at the bottom part (where are the lines are) and plug that third one. Isnt the one under the pump (3rd one i mentioned) the cooler line.

RotaryRocket219 01-29-2003 07:37 PM

Ok...I have my pump out...and have the 3 lines remaining that were on the pump. The two ones on top (feed and return?) and the third one on the bottom (cooler line or something?). Cant i just remove the hose all the way where it goes down to the steering arm guy (where it meets the rack) and loop the two lines together with the hose?? And then I've read you can just cap the third one? Will this be reliable etc? PLEASE give me some good responses or ways. I want the most reliable and EASY to do method since hte motor is still in the car. I need to get my 7 going again.

pengaru 01-29-2003 07:48 PM


Originally Posted by RotaryRocket219' date='Jan 30 2003, 01:37 AM
Ok...I have my pump out...and have the 3 lines remaining that were on the pump. The two ones on top (feed and return?) and the third one on the bottom (cooler line or something?). Cant i just remove the hose all the way where it goes down to the steering arm guy (where it meets the rack) and loop the two lines together with the hose?? And then I've read you can just cap the third one? Will this be reliable etc? PLEASE give me some good responses or ways. I want the most reliable and EASY to do method since hte motor is still in the car. I need to get my 7 going again.





http://pengaru.com/~swivel/cars/rx-7/psdiagram.jpg



ok, looking at the picture, what you want to do, is remove all the lines basically. Then you want to plug all the holes on the steering gear housing (#5)



There are two holes you need to loop, they are the ones on the rack. You can use one of the lines that go from the rack to the steering gear housing to loop the holes, you just have to carefully bend it back around and line it up properly into the other hole (the fitting is the same at both ends)



Now, to plug the holes on the steering gear housing, I took the other line (one from the pair that went from the rack to the steering gear housing) and cut the ends off, with enough length left to keep the O ring flare and fitting, and then used a small torch to weld the end of the line (where it's cut off) shut. This turns it all into a plug. You do this to both ends, and use them as plugs in the two holes that used to go to the lines that went to the rack.



Now you have one oddball fitting that goes to the 'cooler' loop, you can cut this one too the same way as the others, and weld it shut.. then just reinstall it.



Now, for the two that are banjo type... These are the lines that go up to the pump also... I removed the bolt, and welded the end shut, then cut off the lines from the banjos and reused them as spacers on the bolts. You can also weld shut the holes on the banjos that are left where you cut the lines off... (this is the best way to ensure no leaking) but it's not necessary as it's not going to see any pressure, so the plugged hole at the end will likely do the trick.



This is how I did it, it worked fine, and cost nothing because I had a torch etc... If you choose to do it differently ... you're on your own, or perhaps others here have a different suggestion that doesnt involve any welding. (may require visits to the hardware store to buy some plugs or what not)



good luck.

Jerk_Racer 01-29-2003 08:24 PM

There has to be fluid in the rack to keep it lubed. I've heard too many horror stories of racks going bad from doing this. I'd like to keep mine working fine. So I just yanked all of my stuff out recently and capped the lines. Why? Because I'll use the power steering reservoir to hold extra fluid. Why? I didn't just want to loop them. Being different makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. :redface:

RotaryRocket219 01-29-2003 10:45 PM

do you have to remove that whole line assembly..or can u just leep the feed and return like that goes to the pump (after you've got most of the fluid out)? if i can do it that way what do i do with the cooler line?


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