2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

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Old 11-16-2002, 04:07 PM
  #21  
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also to go PP you must upgrade your stock internals to race gears and stationary gears,bearings and so forth, but its defenately worth it,,,brapbrapbrapbrapbrap
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Old 11-16-2002, 04:21 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by mazdaspeed7' date='Nov 16 2002, 07:25 PM
And the higher rpm's dont induce that much extra wear.
Do you have any actual definitive references to back this statement up?



Wheres your peripheral ported motor power band? The stock internals are not going to be happy going to 10k, even performance internals arent going to be too happy, and I doubt any of the people in this thread who are talking about doing a peripheral port are interested in buying expensive apex seals that can use uprated springs to keep from floating > 8500 rpm.... what about the stationary gears, gotta get those hardened to keep from twisting up there too. Gotta remember clearancing the rotors also... since they start wobbling at that rpm .... ecccentric shaft flex and all, some people like the two piece eccentric shaft to help eliminate that problem, but thats a $1400 part alone.



Oh you've also gotta consider a scatter shield for safety revving that high, everything needs to be balanced.. sounds like a pain in the *** to me, and if you don't do it all, and just stick some big assed ports in the rotor housings and leave the rest stock, that motors gonna need a rebuild real soon, especially if you're driving around town in the power band all the time.... if you can even get up there with the stock apex seals and springs.



I've researched the subject a bunch, because I originally intended to build a 10k revving motor for street use. You start hitting alot of bottlenecks which need to be addressed to do it, reliably at least. I didnt even mention anything beyond the mechanical limitations in the 13b... what about fuel, spark, ecu, intake, exhaust...



maybe Judge Ito can chime in on this and set things straight, apparently he builds high revving motors.
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Old 11-17-2002, 12:43 PM
  #23  
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I never said a PP was cheap. I said it was relieble, and drivable on the street. Aside from the 2K rpm idle if carbed, or 1500 rpm idle for fuel injection, its very drivable. It has more power everywhere than a side port n/a.



I have talked to CJ from the other forum, and he had a pineapple racing PP in his 90 GTU, and drive it on the street for a while. He said the drivability or reliability was no worse than a side port n/a.



I prefer to base my opinions on people who have first hand experience, rather than "he said, she said" bullshit. Thats how misinformation gets spread all over forums. And I hate seeing people say something like "well I heard from someone sho heard from someone that if I did this, my results will be this." And then they back it up, even when people with personal experience tell them thats not how it is.
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Old 11-17-2002, 12:47 PM
  #24  
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BTW, stresses and wear are two different things. High rpm motors are stressed A LOT more. But the wear on the seals(witht he exception of side seals in a BP motor) is not disproportionally higher due to the higher rpms. The wear on the seals at 9000 rpm is roughly double what it would be at 4500 rpm. But the stresses on the motor at 9000 rpm are much higher than double.
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Old 11-17-2002, 01:16 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by pengaru' date='Nov 16 2002, 03:21 PM
Do you have any actual definitive references to back this statement up?



Wheres your peripheral ported motor power band? The stock internals are not going to be happy going to 10k, even performance internals arent going to be too happy, and I doubt any of the people in this thread who are talking about doing a peripheral port are interested in buying expensive apex seals that can use uprated springs to keep from floating > 8500 rpm.... what about the stationary gears, gotta get those hardened to keep from twisting up there too. Gotta remember clearancing the rotors also... since they start wobbling at that rpm .... ecccentric shaft flex and all, some people like the two piece eccentric shaft to help eliminate that problem, but thats a $1400 part alone.



Oh you've also gotta consider a scatter shield for safety revving that high, everything needs to be balanced.. sounds like a pain in the *** to me, and if you don't do it all, and just stick some big assed ports in the rotor housings and leave the rest stock, that motors gonna need a rebuild real soon, especially if you're driving around town in the power band all the time.... if you can even get up there with the stock apex seals and springs.



I've researched the subject a bunch, because I originally intended to build a 10k revving motor for street use. You start hitting alot of bottlenecks which need to be addressed to do it, reliably at least. I didnt even mention anything beyond the mechanical limitations in the 13b... what about fuel, spark, ecu, intake, exhaust...



maybe Judge Ito can chime in on this and set things straight, apparently he builds high revving motors.
:bigok:
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