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Originally Posted by One320B' post='824236' date='Jun 14 2006, 05:00 PM
I smell a car for sale then... :( Actually, rebuilding a motor isn't tinkering...it's more like an investment into your enjoyment https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR Perhaps. To not stray too far from the topic at hand. Front control arm tips: The rear bushing will need to be split with a hack saw. Clamp it in a vise being careful not to scartch the aluminum. Try to cut length on the bushing. There is a metal sleeve that is cast inside the rubber that you need to split in order to relieve the pressure of the rubber against the aluminum. Once it's split you just peel the bushing off. The front one I managed to find some old fender washers hanging around and placed them between the jaws of the vise and an old bearing rear wheel bearing race. Then I just pounded it a bit with a hammer and that bushing poped out. Rear control arm: The bushing where there is the toe alignment bolt goes through is a bit more intenresting. I drilled around the metal sleeve, many holes. Set it on fire, then I poped it out with a hammer and some pounding. Once you got the main bushing out you gotta make sure yo uhave all the outer sleeve material removed. Use a punch or chisel to knock them out from inside (centre) out. The ohter bushings are pretty basic |
Originally Posted by One320B' post='824194' date='Jun 14 2006, 10:04 AM
The parts in general are cheap enough too... Tie Rods - brand new are about $25 to $45 depending on where you get them and what brand Front Ball Joints - $25 to $35 I noticed Mazdatrix offers a lot of the parts, but they are like $60 plus... bit extreme considering any normal parts store can get you a good OE replacement for half that! I'm only talking about OE replacement parts too, not the bushings, etc... those prices are all over and besides, who wants OE bushings? mazdatrix buys from a dealer, we thought about stealing the account, but its just too far away |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='824487' date='Jun 15 2006, 11:46 PM
mazdatrix buys from a dealer, we thought about stealing the account, but its just too far away Mazdatrix is good site to look up part numbers and compare part numbers to real picture of parts. for example: Mazdatrix part no. 11-5210-N351 Mazda dealer no. N351-11-521 They usually add a zero to the end of the mazda number, then add a dash, then move the first 4 characters to the last. =) I'm not sure why people are so scared about the dealer for parts. I goto the dealer all the time unless I have a large enough order to order from Mazdaspeed Motorsports. atleast every single time I goto the mazda dealership I know I'm going to order a part that fit, and works, and is made in Japan. Not mexico. Nothing wrong with the mexicans but the car parts they make are uber garbage. |
mazda used to add the zero too, somewhere along the line they stopped though.
if you see an 80's parts tag, it would say n351-11-5210 i think it might be a place holder or something yeah i agree, i want the oem part. just beware of any parts with the 9U or 9A at the end, that means mazda went to kragen for you, damn copycats |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='824534' date='Jun 16 2006, 09:48 AM
mazda used to add the zero too, somewhere along the line they stopped though. if you see an 80's parts tag, it would say n351-11-5210 i think it might be a place holder or something yeah i agree, i want the oem part. just beware of any parts with the 9U or 9A at the end, that means mazda went to kragen for you, damn copycats ah fuc! |
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