I really want to go thru the suspension and replace all the old bushings with sometheing a bit stiffer to tighten up the handling a bit (and hopefully get rid of some of the damn squeaks... there this one really annoying one from the pass rear wheel...) I know Mazdatrix has a kit, and so does Energy Suspensions (altho mazdatrix includes the rear sway bar to frame bushings and ES doesnt seem to). What other kits are out there?



Once I get it, what tools or other things will i need (beyond a socket set and some wrenches)? What are some of the sticky or otherwise difficult parts to it?

The front control arm bushings were the hardest for me, I ended up taking them to a shop that has a press. A torch is good to burn the old rubber out.



I think part of the reason I had trouble with those is that a few of the stock bushings have a metal sleeve around them that you have to remove. I burned out the rubber, but didn't realize I left the sleeve in there, before taking it to the shop.

It's quite a bit of work. You need an alignment afterwards. I tried to mark the alignment settings using white out and it didn't work in the end. Since you are going to all teh trouble of replacing bushings make sure the following are good too:



1.) Rear suspension Tie rods

2.) Front control arm ball joints

3.) Steering ball joints

4.) Inner Steering pivot arm that goes into the rack

5.) Diff bushings

6.) Subframe bushing

7.) Rust?



I spent 3 time the money and 4 times the time since I replaced everythhing and repainted everything.



good luck.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who goes through EVERYTHING on their car Cheers!



I got the Prothane kit from corksport. I have used Energy suspension as well though. They used to (not sure if they still do) offer two kits..red or black. The red ones were tighter and were more for "track" use as they would squeak a bit more... the black was a dif compound i think and didn't squeak as much, but it wasn't as tight either..it was more of an OE replacement.



The biggest thing like Cheers & Baldy said is you'll need to check everything else while your under there, it's one of those things that it's just easier to do while you have everything apart, and its not expensive!



You'll need a good hammer too, on top of the torch. If you have access to a press, even better....

i just checked the prices on the stock front bushings, and they are cheap! for a mazda bushing, $20 each.

I use the MAzda Factory Service tools in a press, come out like butter

The parts in general are cheap enough too...



Tie Rods - brand new are about $25 to $45 depending on where you get them and what brand

Front Ball Joints - $25 to $35





I noticed Mazdatrix offers a lot of the parts, but they are like $60 plus... bit extreme considering any normal parts store can get you a good OE replacement for half that!



I'm only talking about OE replacement parts too, not the bushings, etc... those prices are all over and besides, who wants OE bushings?

Nothing wrong with the OEM stuff on our cars, I would love to have another "STOCK" car and replicate the way it felt fresh from the factory.

I too wish the same thing.



I did not have the luxury of the mazda tools and a press. Everything was done via hammers, saws, and fire. I had to get a pair of 86 to 88 control arms as one ball joint on my 89 car was bad. The 89+ ones can not replace the ball joint on the front control arm. The 86 to 88 ones you can. They are a direct fit if you were wondering.



I did buy all new mazda things. I have a deal with a local mazda dealership for 25% off list, as long as you prepay for it and don't biotch about it when it's 2 weeks late. Else it's mazdaspeed motorsports for me. As for the poly bushings, I used the energy suspension black ones. Make sure you don't skimp on the lube. DO NOT SKIMP!



hrm.. what else... the price for things is cheap, but it's a lot of labour. Don't forget to budget in the alignment afterwards. No point upgrading a suspensino to have a car wandering around at speed.



Right now after blowing up my engine I'm not sure what to do. I put in a lot of effort, but i'm also ready to mvoe on my life and get a condo and stop tinkering day in and ady out.

I smell a car for sale then... :(



Actually, rebuilding a motor isn't tinkering...it's more like an investment into your enjoyment https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR

Perhaps.



To not stray too far from the topic at hand.



Front control arm tips:

The rear bushing will need to be split with a hack saw. Clamp it in a vise being careful not to scartch the aluminum. Try to cut length on the bushing. There is a metal sleeve that is cast inside the rubber that you need to split in order to relieve the pressure of the rubber against the aluminum. Once it's split you just peel the bushing off.



The front one I managed to find some old fender washers hanging around and placed them between the jaws of the vise and an old bearing rear wheel bearing race. Then I just pounded it a bit with a hammer and that bushing poped out.



Rear control arm:

The bushing where there is the toe alignment bolt goes through is a bit more intenresting. I drilled around the metal sleeve, many holes. Set it on fire, then I poped it out with a hammer and some pounding. Once you got the main bushing out you gotta make sure yo uhave all the outer sleeve material removed. Use a punch or chisel to knock them out from inside (centre) out.



The ohter bushings are pretty basic

mazdatrix buys from a dealer, we thought about stealing the account, but its just too far away

Mazdatrix is good site to look up part numbers and compare part numbers to real picture of parts.



for example:



Mazdatrix part no. 11-5210-N351

Mazda dealer no. N351-11-521



They usually add a zero to the end of the mazda number, then add a dash, then move the first 4 characters to the last.



=)



I'm not sure why people are so scared about the dealer for parts. I goto the dealer all the time unless I have a large enough order to order from Mazdaspeed Motorsports. atleast every single time I goto the mazda dealership I know I'm going to order a part that fit, and works, and is made in Japan. Not mexico. Nothing wrong with the mexicans but the car parts they make are uber garbage.

mazda used to add the zero too, somewhere along the line they stopped though.



if you see an 80's parts tag, it would say n351-11-5210 i think it might be a place holder or something



yeah i agree, i want the oem part. just beware of any parts with the 9U or 9A at the end, that means mazda went to kragen for you, damn copycats

ah fuc!