ok so i have this problem
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 14
From: MS
ok i got a 88 gxl n/a i bought for 500 bucks and drove it for about 2 weeks ok im pretty mechanically inclined so a project is right up my alley i had an injector stuck open and also blew a water jacket? well i bought a engine from a guy who rebuilds them as he used to be mazda certified to work on the rotary when they first went into production i think the engine is from a 84 or so because there is no egr holes anyway i swapped the engine and while i was at it i removed the emissions a/c air pump and p/s well after i got everything buttoned up it wouldnt fire off so i checked the timing and the trailing coils fire every orange mark and the #1 leading fires every other yellow mark and the #2 fires twice per rotation i called the gut for some tech support and he said i needed to pull it in second after shooting trans fluid in the engine to build compression am i missing something obvious?
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 22,465
From: California
Originally Posted by pistons=ha' post='925077' date='Aug 2 2009, 05:48 AM
no distributor coils read all around .6 ohms and i never touched the wiring for the coils i was trying to check the timing while turning it over ie not starting just turning by starter
timing is not on the marks when the key is in 'start' the FSM says 5btdc
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 14
From: MS
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='925125' date='Aug 3 2009, 11:29 AM
timing is not on the marks when the key is in 'start' the FSM says 5btdc
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 22,465
From: California
Originally Posted by pistons=ha' post='925128' date='Aug 3 2009, 09:33 AM
yeah i think i just need to pull it down the road in second to build compression
if you wanna get close, put the motor on the L mark, and there is a little plastic cap on the CAS. take it off, and the BIG CAS tooth should be basically centered in the hole.
do that and its close enough to not be a problem
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 14
From: MS
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='925169' date='Aug 4 2009, 12:06 PM
if you wanna get close, put the motor on the L mark, and there is a little plastic cap on the CAS. take it off, and the BIG CAS tooth should be basically centered in the hole.
do that and its close enough to not be a problem
do that and its close enough to not be a problem
actually i lined the mark and notch on cas and lined up L mark the big tooth is just at the rear edge of the lower pickup
btw thanks for the input
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 16
If i recall starting a new motor requires accessive cranking and low compression to start with untill a few miles or so(haven't built one yet but have read from various forms). If you can't start it i would say spray starter fluid untill it starts and keep on untill it holds its own.
