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Let us not forget about all the asphaltines, paraffins, and ash that will always remain in conventional oils. I know that I for one just love to have that stuff getting left behind after my dino-oil gets injected through my combustion chambers [/sarcasm] All I was saying is that GOOD synthetic oils will burn cleaner ( they are man made and dont have all the crap that cant be completely taken out during refinement of conventional oil ) and are engineered to be the best lubricant out there. If you want to run that stuff through your engine, be my guest. But Ill stick to the oil thats less likely to coke on my turbo, less likely to leave deposits behind in my combustion chamber, and was specifically engineered to lubricate better than other oils. If you use good quality mineral-based engine oil in your rotary (even turbo ones) and stick with a 3,000 miles oil and oil filter change interval, you are fine. The majority of people responding to this thread support that, so I guess I'll file you under "paranoid"... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png -Ted |
Ted have you ever opened a motor that ran SYN premix w/o an omp?
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Originally Posted by RETed' date='Feb 18 2004, 07:58 PM
First time I've seen those words...where doy ou find info on such data?
Synthetic engine oil was never meant to be burned. Can you give me a refererence on where they specifically state a synthetic engine oil designed to "burn cleaner"? Sure, my engines have had zero lubrication problems running Castrol GTX 20W50 and now Shell Rotella-T 15W40 - both are mineral-based engine oils. I have suffered zero oil problems with the turbos, as I don't do assine things as shut the engine off after boosting 15psi for the last 10 miles - this is what I use my EGT and oil temp gauges for. You do know that the water cooled center section (on the stock Mazda turbo) was design to minimize oil coking, right? I can't even remember when some FC turbo owner complained of a bad turbo due to oil coking. Don't get me wrong, I've seen scored center shafts on turbos, but this was because of owner neglect with no oil changes. If you use good quality mineral-based engine oil in your rotary (even turbo ones) and stick with a 3,000 miles oil and oil filter change interval, you are fine. The majority of people responding to this thread support that, so I guess I'll file you under "paranoid"... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png -Ted As for your second question; Why dont you go ask Amsoil? I guess they must just be wasting money trying to research how to make their 2 cycle synthetic burn cleaner. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png Yes Ted...I do know the center section is water cooled. Now...You do know I dont run the stock turbo, right? I said Ill run the oil thats less likely to coke on MY turbo. Sorry if you made an incorrect assumption. If you use any oil and change often and regularly, chances are, youll be fine. However, why take a chance? Why not run the oil thats better in the first place and still change it often? Just makes sense to me. But hey...What do I know. Seems like I just make up words and talk a lot of noise. |
Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='Feb 18 2004, 03:17 PM
thats a bit overkill unless your putting 2000 miles a year on the car
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I think regular oil changes are more important than what type of oil one is using. And I like the Mazda filters as well. Plus, you can usually pick up a Mazda filter for the same price as one of the aftermarket offerings.
I changed my oil in my FD every 200 to 300 miles, using Castrol GTX 10w30 and 20w50. It saw less than 1,000 miles every year. As far as I know, when oil is heated it starts the break down process. I think that is typically why most oil manufacturers recommend every 3,000 or 3 months. Call me "paranoid." :] About that guy's leak, the sythetic oil probably isn't helping things, as it is most likely a thinner consistency. But switching oils is just a band-aid. :] |
Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Feb 18 2004, 05:05 PM
Ted have you ever opened a motor that ran SYN premix w/o an omp?
1988 Turbo II with 20,000 original miles purchased around 1996. The owner immediately switched to Amsoil 20W50. At 35,000 miles about 2 years later, the engine blew and we got to see the insides. -Ted |
I dont know Ted...Maybe I found some of the data at Petronas? Why even bother asking such idiotic questions. Youve got a computer just as I do. Why dont you use Google yourself? Its not hard. I promise. As for your second question; Why dont you go ask Amsoil? I guess they must just be wasting money trying to research how to make their 2 cycle synthetic burn cleaner. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png Yes Ted...I do know the center section is water cooled. Now...You do know I dont run the stock turbo, right? I said Ill run the oil thats less likely to coke on MY turbo. Sorry if you made an incorrect assumption. If you use any oil and change often and regularly, chances are, youll be fine. However, why take a chance? Why not run the oil thats better in the first place and still change it often? Just makes sense to me. -Ted |
ted vs adam.
go ted, adam's an ass. kevin. |
Mobil 1 15W50. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png And K&N oil filters.
Cost for oil and filter:35 dollars Cost for a blown engine due to **** oil and oil filter:1500(just a guess,don't flame me and say you can get one for a grand,i will just give you a pat on the back since you are better than us) The look on some jackasses face cause they just ate your dust:Priceless. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png If you have not noticed, i am a smartass. Thank you come again. -J |
This is just an age-old debate...
We'll all go blue in the face trying to push our side. We all have our opinions, and we have the right to express them. I've got nothing against the pro synth argument; I do get annoyed when they tell you to shut up though. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png -Ted |
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