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I was wondering what everyone recomends oil wise for my 89 vert. Also where can i get the best oil filter?
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the best filter is the oem mazda one, b6y1-14-302. the usa made one is ok b6y2-14-302.
i took a fram apart yesterday and theres not much in it |
OEM Mazda or Mobil 1. I personally run the Mobil 1 filter.
I also run the Mobil 1 synthetic oil. A lot of ill-informed people around here will tell you not to do it because of the OMP, but theyre beind the times. A lot of gains have been made in the field of synthetic oils and now theyll burn cleaner than conventional oils. |
im not sure the metering oil is supposed to burn anyways.
i have seen some synthetics swell up the rotor oil seal o rings though |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Feb 16 2004, 03:47 PM
i have seen some synthetics swell up the rotor oil seal o rings though
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Feb 16 2004, 03:47 PM
im not sure the metering oil is supposed to burn anyways.
i have seen some synthetics swell up the rotor oil seal o rings though End of story. People always say not to run synthetic because it doesnt burn as clean and will leave more deposits. Fact is, synthetics burn cleaner now. |
synthetics don't have the imperfections that dinosaur oil does and therefore does not make the oil control seals swell to fill the void that wear causes.
I use castrol gtx 20w-50 in my turbo, and 10w-30 in my n/a. I also use a 1973 rx3 oil filter that is twice the size of the stock filter. If you want to be good to your engine, just change your oil more frequently. I used dinosaur oil in my turbo and changed it every 2000 miles and it lasted running strong for 215k miles. |
Originally Posted by adamlewis' date='Feb 17 2004, 04:01 AM
Oil injected into the combustion chamber is going to burn...
End of story. People always say not to run synthetic because it doesnt burn as clean and will leave more deposits. Fact is, synthetics burn cleaner now. |
just change it, no need for synthetics
I did run Mobil 1 in my 1985 RX-7 GS for 3 years that I had it, and I beat the hell out of the car and never had a problem, but I wasnt paying for the oil so I figured why not? |
I Use the K&N oil filter and run mobile 1 synth. The car runs better than ever. But an oil leak seemes to be coming from the oil preassue sender or the oil filter pedestal and is throwing the **** all over the place. A quart evert 2-3 weeks is getting kinda expensive. Damn oil leak.
To not post another topic, Can any one offer me any help on what is causig an oil leak big enough to go all the way to the middle of the car. |
the oil pressure sender and the oil filter base o rings both can leak
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I use castrol GTX 20w50, change it every 1k miles, change filter every 2k.
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Originally Posted by adamlewis' date='Feb 17 2004, 04:01 AM
Oil injected into the combustion chamber is going to burn...
End of story. People always say not to run synthetic because it doesnt burn as clean and will leave more deposits. Fact is, synthetics burn cleaner now. Castrol is my brand of choice, and I run 1 baldwin filter w a bypass filter as well |
Originally Posted by adamlewis' date='Feb 16 2004, 12:40 PM
I also run the Mobil 1 synthetic oil. A lot of ill-informed people around here will tell you not to do it because of the OMP, but theyre beind the times. A lot of gains have been made in the field of synthetic oils and now theyll burn cleaner than conventional oils.
We can agree on that flash points are generally higher for synthetics, right? That implies that synths are "harder" to burn, which makes your statement of "burning cleaner" not necessarily true. We've had HORRIBLE experience with Amsoil 20W50 synth running with the stock oil metering injection. They left nasty deposits next to the spark plugs hole which showed apex seal chattering marks. This CANNOT be good, period. This has NOTHING to do with burning cleaner - this stuff just doesn't BURN and magically turn into smoke on surface areas which cannot even come close to the flash point of the (synth) oil. REMEMBER, coolant and oil keep these surfaces cooler down to the 200F to 300F range, which is WAY below the flash point of most ALL oils, synth or not. Mineral oil has shown NOT to cause any lubrications problems, so running synth oil is a waste of time and money, period. You're paying for peace of mind for your paranoid self, but don't tell everyone running synth oil is the end-all solution... -Ted |
Originally Posted by RETed' date='Feb 18 2004, 12:42 AM
You know, making ignorant statements like that will not make you look good.
We can agree on that flash points are generally higher for synthetics, right? That implies that synths are "harder" to burn, which makes your statement of "burning cleaner" not necessarily true. We've had HORRIBLE experience with Amsoil 20W50 synth running with the stock oil metering injection. They left nasty deposits next to the spark plugs hole which showed apex seal chattering marks. This CANNOT be good, period. This has NOTHING to do with burning cleaner - this stuff just doesn't BURN and magically turn into smoke on surface areas which cannot even come close to the flash point of the (synth) oil. REMEMBER, coolant and oil keep these surfaces cooler down to the 200F to 300F range, which is WAY below the flash point of most ALL oils, synth or not. Mineral oil has shown NOT to cause any lubrications problems, so running synth oil is a waste of time and money, period. You're paying for peace of mind for your paranoid self, but don't tell everyone running synth oil is the end-all solution... -Ted All I was saying is that GOOD synthetic oils will burn cleaner ( they are man made and dont have all the crap that cant be completely taken out during refinement of conventional oil ) and are engineered to be the best lubricant out there. If you want to run that stuff through your engine, be my guest. But Ill stick to the oil thats less likely to coke on my turbo, less likely to leave deposits behind in my combustion chamber, and was specifically engineered to lubricate better than other oils. |
Originally Posted by RX7 13B 4 UR AZZ' date='Feb 17 2004, 11:34 PM
I Use the K&N oil filter and run mobile 1 synth. The car runs better than ever. But an oil leak seemes to be coming from the oil preassue sender or the oil filter pedestal and is throwing the **** all over the place. A quart evert 2-3 weeks is getting kinda expensive. Damn oil leak.
To not post another topic, Can any one offer me any help on what is causig an oil leak big enough to go all the way to the middle of the car. O-rings are leaking. O-ring leaks are common. |
Originally Posted by Dramon_Killer' date='Feb 18 2004, 12:07 AM
I use castrol GTX 20w50, change it every 1k miles, change filter every 2k.
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i use the same dino as dramon...you dont need to change it every 1k .... i change it 3k
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I change my oil/filter twice a year, but I put less then 1000 miles a year
on the car, I just dont like the oil in there that long |
i used a fram on my car and we all know what happened to my car. lesson learned. fram has ancient voodoo curses on them that make cars blow up.
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Let us not forget about all the asphaltines, paraffins, and ash that will always remain in conventional oils. I know that I for one just love to have that stuff getting left behind after my dino-oil gets injected through my combustion chambers [/sarcasm] All I was saying is that GOOD synthetic oils will burn cleaner ( they are man made and dont have all the crap that cant be completely taken out during refinement of conventional oil ) and are engineered to be the best lubricant out there. If you want to run that stuff through your engine, be my guest. But Ill stick to the oil thats less likely to coke on my turbo, less likely to leave deposits behind in my combustion chamber, and was specifically engineered to lubricate better than other oils. If you use good quality mineral-based engine oil in your rotary (even turbo ones) and stick with a 3,000 miles oil and oil filter change interval, you are fine. The majority of people responding to this thread support that, so I guess I'll file you under "paranoid"... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png -Ted |
Ted have you ever opened a motor that ran SYN premix w/o an omp?
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Originally Posted by RETed' date='Feb 18 2004, 07:58 PM
First time I've seen those words...where doy ou find info on such data?
Synthetic engine oil was never meant to be burned. Can you give me a refererence on where they specifically state a synthetic engine oil designed to "burn cleaner"? Sure, my engines have had zero lubrication problems running Castrol GTX 20W50 and now Shell Rotella-T 15W40 - both are mineral-based engine oils. I have suffered zero oil problems with the turbos, as I don't do assine things as shut the engine off after boosting 15psi for the last 10 miles - this is what I use my EGT and oil temp gauges for. You do know that the water cooled center section (on the stock Mazda turbo) was design to minimize oil coking, right? I can't even remember when some FC turbo owner complained of a bad turbo due to oil coking. Don't get me wrong, I've seen scored center shafts on turbos, but this was because of owner neglect with no oil changes. If you use good quality mineral-based engine oil in your rotary (even turbo ones) and stick with a 3,000 miles oil and oil filter change interval, you are fine. The majority of people responding to this thread support that, so I guess I'll file you under "paranoid"... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png -Ted As for your second question; Why dont you go ask Amsoil? I guess they must just be wasting money trying to research how to make their 2 cycle synthetic burn cleaner. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png Yes Ted...I do know the center section is water cooled. Now...You do know I dont run the stock turbo, right? I said Ill run the oil thats less likely to coke on MY turbo. Sorry if you made an incorrect assumption. If you use any oil and change often and regularly, chances are, youll be fine. However, why take a chance? Why not run the oil thats better in the first place and still change it often? Just makes sense to me. But hey...What do I know. Seems like I just make up words and talk a lot of noise. |
Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='Feb 18 2004, 03:17 PM
thats a bit overkill unless your putting 2000 miles a year on the car
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I think regular oil changes are more important than what type of oil one is using. And I like the Mazda filters as well. Plus, you can usually pick up a Mazda filter for the same price as one of the aftermarket offerings.
I changed my oil in my FD every 200 to 300 miles, using Castrol GTX 10w30 and 20w50. It saw less than 1,000 miles every year. As far as I know, when oil is heated it starts the break down process. I think that is typically why most oil manufacturers recommend every 3,000 or 3 months. Call me "paranoid." :] About that guy's leak, the sythetic oil probably isn't helping things, as it is most likely a thinner consistency. But switching oils is just a band-aid. :] |
Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Feb 18 2004, 05:05 PM
Ted have you ever opened a motor that ran SYN premix w/o an omp?
1988 Turbo II with 20,000 original miles purchased around 1996. The owner immediately switched to Amsoil 20W50. At 35,000 miles about 2 years later, the engine blew and we got to see the insides. -Ted |
I dont know Ted...Maybe I found some of the data at Petronas? Why even bother asking such idiotic questions. Youve got a computer just as I do. Why dont you use Google yourself? Its not hard. I promise. As for your second question; Why dont you go ask Amsoil? I guess they must just be wasting money trying to research how to make their 2 cycle synthetic burn cleaner. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png Yes Ted...I do know the center section is water cooled. Now...You do know I dont run the stock turbo, right? I said Ill run the oil thats less likely to coke on MY turbo. Sorry if you made an incorrect assumption. If you use any oil and change often and regularly, chances are, youll be fine. However, why take a chance? Why not run the oil thats better in the first place and still change it often? Just makes sense to me. -Ted |
ted vs adam.
go ted, adam's an ass. kevin. |
Mobil 1 15W50. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png And K&N oil filters.
Cost for oil and filter:35 dollars Cost for a blown engine due to **** oil and oil filter:1500(just a guess,don't flame me and say you can get one for a grand,i will just give you a pat on the back since you are better than us) The look on some jackasses face cause they just ate your dust:Priceless. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png If you have not noticed, i am a smartass. Thank you come again. -J |
This is just an age-old debate...
We'll all go blue in the face trying to push our side. We all have our opinions, and we have the right to express them. I've got nothing against the pro synth argument; I do get annoyed when they tell you to shut up though. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png -Ted |
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