Oil and Oil Filter
01-07-2006, 03:23 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kincardine, Ontario Canada yeah Canada bitches
Posts: 1,068
Most people seem to use Castrol GTX 20w50 for the summer and 10w30 in the winter. Some people recommend that the Mazda filter is the best, but I use the most expesnive Fram I can buy sisnce the last filter I use to use religously was discontinued, Generally one with a Gauze filter media is the best.
01-07-2006, 04:05 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,502
I wouldn't run 10 weight in the winter. Mazda recommends 10 weight of the car sees 0 fahrenheit or lower, so yeah, use it if your car is going to see negative 18 C ambient temp (not windchill). Otherwise, always use 20w50, and always use a mineral oil, nothing synthetic. Rotary engines burn oil on purpose, running synthetic is debateable...
I never had a slow crank problem running 20 weight in the winter.
I cut up a Mazda Canada OEM filter and found it was like fram, which is a garbage filter.. I never cut up a fram top of the line filter but on an oil filter study they weren't any better other than some flashy packaging.. I would hope fram's most expensive stuff had a proper element, not some mass production quantity-over-quality bullshit.
Purolator filters are top notch, at a general auto store, the valvoline filters are made by purolator. Kralinator is another good filter. Fleetguard is good (if you can find one for a mazda application) as well..
Basically what makes or breaks a filter is cheap plastic drainbacks and paper and glue versus actual steel ended filter elements, etc.
The Mazda Canada OEM filter was glued together, and looked like a fifth grader cut the end caps of the element out of construction paper. I stopped using those religiously..
If you are at the store and can't pick between two brands, go with the one that's a little bit heavier, because chances are it has a quality element, not junk.
I never had a slow crank problem running 20 weight in the winter.
I cut up a Mazda Canada OEM filter and found it was like fram, which is a garbage filter.. I never cut up a fram top of the line filter but on an oil filter study they weren't any better other than some flashy packaging.. I would hope fram's most expensive stuff had a proper element, not some mass production quantity-over-quality bullshit.
Purolator filters are top notch, at a general auto store, the valvoline filters are made by purolator. Kralinator is another good filter. Fleetguard is good (if you can find one for a mazda application) as well..
Basically what makes or breaks a filter is cheap plastic drainbacks and paper and glue versus actual steel ended filter elements, etc.
The Mazda Canada OEM filter was glued together, and looked like a fifth grader cut the end caps of the element out of construction paper. I stopped using those religiously..
If you are at the store and can't pick between two brands, go with the one that's a little bit heavier, because chances are it has a quality element, not junk.
01-07-2006, 04:53 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by ColinRX7' post='792676' date='Jan 7 2006, 02:05 PM
I wouldn't run 10 weight in the winter. Mazda recommends 10 weight of the car sees 0 fahrenheit or lower, so yeah, use it if your car is going to see negative 18 C ambient temp (not windchill). Otherwise, always use 20w50, and always use a mineral oil, nothing synthetic. Rotary engines burn oil on purpose, running synthetic is debateable...
I never had a slow crank problem running 20 weight in the winter.
I cut up a Mazda Canada OEM filter and found it was like fram, which is a garbage filter.. I never cut up a fram top of the line filter but on an oil filter study they weren't any better other than some flashy packaging.. I would hope fram's most expensive stuff had a proper element, not some mass production quantity-over-quality bullshit.
Purolator filters are top notch, at a general auto store, the valvoline filters are made by purolator. Kralinator is another good filter. Fleetguard is good (if you can find one for a mazda application) as well..
Basically what makes or breaks a filter is cheap plastic drainbacks and paper and glue versus actual steel ended filter elements, etc.
The Mazda Canada OEM filter was glued together, and looked like a fifth grader cut the end caps of the element out of construction paper. I stopped using those religiously..
If you are at the store and can't pick between two brands, go with the one that's a little bit heavier, because chances are it has a quality element, not junk.
can you look at one and get pics or tell me who makes it?
there are 3 oem mazda filters i know of.
mazdausa now supplies us with a european made filter its b6y1-14-302-9a, seems to be just fine
mazda japan sells a tokyo roki made filter, its very high quality, denser packing (i used to have cut open ones) b6y1-14-302a
mazdausa also had a USA made filter, b6y2-14-302, its made by tennex, we had problems with them screwing on the motor, its basically junk
01-07-2006, 05:19 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,108
right now i'm using those blue mazda canada filters. I bought two dozens for ultra cheap a long time ago. I have about 4 more left I think.
What would you say about using other filters that weren't meant for a mazda application.
I have two 2002 Honda Accord filters. It seems to be high quality and it is made in USA by Honeywell.
I also have a 2003 subaru legacy GT and that filter is a purolator filter from subaru dealership. It too seems like a high quality filter. They both screw into the pedalstal fine and have the same OD, but different heights.
What if i were to use a subaru or honda filter in my rx7? would it work?
What would you say about using other filters that weren't meant for a mazda application.
I have two 2002 Honda Accord filters. It seems to be high quality and it is made in USA by Honeywell.
I also have a 2003 subaru legacy GT and that filter is a purolator filter from subaru dealership. It too seems like a high quality filter. They both screw into the pedalstal fine and have the same OD, but different heights.
What if i were to use a subaru or honda filter in my rx7? would it work?
01-07-2006, 05:36 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kincardine, Ontario Canada yeah Canada bitches
Posts: 1,068
Originally Posted by ColinRX7' post='792676' date='Jan 7 2006, 05:05 PM
I wouldn't run 10 weight in the winter. Mazda recommends 10 weight of the car sees 0 fahrenheit or lower, so yeah, use it if your car is going to see negative 18 C ambient temp (not windchill). Otherwise, always use 20w50, and always use a mineral oil, nothing synthetic. Rotary engines burn oil on purpose, running synthetic is debateable...
I never had a slow crank problem running 20 weight in the winter.
I cut up a Mazda Canada OEM filter and found it was like fram, which is a garbage filter.. I never cut up a fram top of the line filter but on an oil filter study they weren't any better other than some flashy packaging.. I would hope fram's most expensive stuff had a proper element, not some mass production quantity-over-quality bullshit.
Purolator filters are top notch, at a general auto store, the valvoline filters are made by purolator. Kralinator is another good filter. Fleetguard is good (if you can find one for a mazda application) as well..
Basically what makes or breaks a filter is cheap plastic drainbacks and paper and glue versus actual steel ended filter elements, etc.
The Mazda Canada OEM filter was glued together, and looked like a fifth grader cut the end caps of the element out of construction paper. I stopped using those religiously..
If you are at the store and can't pick between two brands, go with the one that's a little bit heavier, because chances are it has a quality element, not junk.
LOL like you know what winter is Colin, but I guess it gets cold in my neck of the woods lol!!
