New Guy/Rebuild posssible in near future
03-30-2010, 04:34 PM
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Hattiesburg, Ms
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Hey guys im new to this forum... And seeking a little advice from some guys more exprienced than my self. My 88 gtu sat for about a year i replaced the leading coil and got it running again. But i gotta load the motor up with tranny fluid to get it to start. I have been driving like this for about six months now and every time i have pop the hood and squeeze tranny fliud down a vaccum line. When it cranks it smokes horribly because of the tranny fluid but after that it runs fine and if i dont let it sit longer than about twenty mins or so it will crank back up with no fluid assistance. Any ideas other than 750 buck rebuild kit and lord knows how many man hours to rebuild it my self... A guy at atkins told me the seals were probably frozen up from carbon build up. He suggested that i put a lil tranny fluid on the rotors via spark plug holes and turn it over by hand every couple of hours for 24 hours before i tried to crank it again... I did just that and it had no effect i had to actually put more fluid in it just to get it to start back up... If you guys have any good ideas for me let me know... Thanks
03-31-2010, 10:28 AM
#3
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Transmission fluid does nothing to dissolve carbon. Ive left rotors in a bucket of it for over a year, and it didnt do a damn thing to the carbon on the rotors.
Ive seen low compression motors, and even motors with a blown seal on a rotor be able to start right up. They just dont hold idle. If your motor is holding idle fine but not starting, you could have more problems than just a low compression motor.
Are you running stock cats? If so, they are almost certainly all clogged up from dumping oil in the intake to start it every time for 6 months. Throw them away. Replace with a new cat if you need to for emissions, otherwise a test pipe will work great.
Ive seen low compression motors, and even motors with a blown seal on a rotor be able to start right up. They just dont hold idle. If your motor is holding idle fine but not starting, you could have more problems than just a low compression motor.
Are you running stock cats? If so, they are almost certainly all clogged up from dumping oil in the intake to start it every time for 6 months. Throw them away. Replace with a new cat if you need to for emissions, otherwise a test pipe will work great.
03-31-2010, 01:21 PM
#4
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i've had one with low compression that would only start cold or if you dumped trans fluid in it. It was a VERY low comp engine though due to a rotor wobble allowing the rotor to contact the side housing and eat the side seals.
If it were me... i'd look for a used engine to swap into it and then tear down and rebuild yours as you have time/money. It's a rotary, you will end up needing that extra engine eventually.
If it were me... i'd look for a used engine to swap into it and then tear down and rebuild yours as you have time/money. It's a rotary, you will end up needing that extra engine eventually.
03-31-2010, 02:22 PM
#5
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03-31-2010, 02:35 PM
#6
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Hattiesburg, Ms
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Transmission fluid does nothing to dissolve carbon. Ive left rotors in a bucket of it for over a year, and it didnt do a damn thing to the carbon on the rotors.
Ive seen low compression motors, and even motors with a blown seal on a rotor be able to start right up. They just dont hold idle. If your motor is holding idle fine but not starting, you could have more problems than just a low compression motor.
Are you running stock cats? If so, they are almost certainly all clogged up from dumping oil in the intake to start it every time for 6 months. Throw them away. Replace with a new cat if you need to for emissions, otherwise a test pipe will work great.
Ive seen low compression motors, and even motors with a blown seal on a rotor be able to start right up. They just dont hold idle. If your motor is holding idle fine but not starting, you could have more problems than just a low compression motor.
Are you running stock cats? If so, they are almost certainly all clogged up from dumping oil in the intake to start it every time for 6 months. Throw them away. Replace with a new cat if you need to for emissions, otherwise a test pipe will work great.
Nope no cats got rid of them shortly after i got her back up and runnin... Stock manifold straight pipe and stock cat back... So thats not the problem i know im gettin good fuel cuz if i try to much to crank it the fumes roll out my exhaust... I got rid of the air pump, a/c and clutch fan but have not put a block off plate on the lower manifold air control vavle is still there... Is there any sensors that would not let it crank like w/o the tranny fluid assistance? It idles right above 1200 rpm right now but i gotta build me a checker light and adjust my tps... and the mian idle screw on top of the manifold is all the way in... and i dont think my fast idle cam screw is releasing like it s supposed to...
03-31-2010, 02:44 PM
#7
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i've had one with low compression that would only start cold or if you dumped trans fluid in it. It was a VERY low comp engine though due to a rotor wobble allowing the rotor to contact the side housing and eat the side seals.
If it were me... i'd look for a used engine to swap into it and then tear down and rebuild yours as you have time/money. It's a rotary, you will end up needing that extra engine eventually.
If it were me... i'd look for a used engine to swap into it and then tear down and rebuild yours as you have time/money. It's a rotary, you will end up needing that extra engine eventually.
Ive got a spare engine... I bought an engine and tranny out of an 87 GXL from a buddy of mine for 100 bucks but he said it wouldn't even crank with tranny fluid.... But when i got the motor home and started tearing all the stuff off the block i noticed the main part of the wiring harness had been chopped and spliced back together so he might have had a lot more problems... But the motor is also extremely easy to turn over by hand and the timing chain has a lot of slack in it from what i can tell so really dont know what kind of shape it is really in and have not a clue as to the mileage of the engine either....
04-21-2010, 10:50 PM
#8
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Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 2,467
A cut wiring harness doesn't really matter on a back up engine, the one in your car should be fine so long as the back up engine is from an 86-88 RX.
You don't really need a compression tester if you don't have one or can't source one, with the spare engine in a fixed position with no plugs in or exhaust on, rotate the e-shaft clockwise, you should get six "pops" of nearly the same tone as you rotate the assembly, the faster you can spin it the better, if one or more sound dull like a thud rather than a pop you probably have seal issues. Im guessing the engine in your car now has carbon build up which causes all kind of headaches, a rebuild wouldn't be a bad idea and the experience is almost required if you own one of these cars.
You don't really need a compression tester if you don't have one or can't source one, with the spare engine in a fixed position with no plugs in or exhaust on, rotate the e-shaft clockwise, you should get six "pops" of nearly the same tone as you rotate the assembly, the faster you can spin it the better, if one or more sound dull like a thud rather than a pop you probably have seal issues. Im guessing the engine in your car now has carbon build up which causes all kind of headaches, a rebuild wouldn't be a bad idea and the experience is almost required if you own one of these cars.
04-22-2010, 03:10 PM
#9
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Hattiesburg, Ms
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A cut wiring harness doesn't really matter on a back up engine, the one in your car should be fine so long as the back up engine is from an 86-88 RX.
You don't really need a compression tester if you don't have one or can't source one, with the spare engine in a fixed position with no plugs in or exhaust on, rotate the e-shaft clockwise, you should get six "pops" of nearly the same tone as you rotate the assembly, the faster you can spin it the better, if one or more sound dull like a thud rather than a pop you probably have seal issues. Im guessing the engine in your car now has carbon build up which causes all kind of headaches, a rebuild wouldn't be a bad idea and the experience is almost required if you own one of these cars.
You don't really need a compression tester if you don't have one or can't source one, with the spare engine in a fixed position with no plugs in or exhaust on, rotate the e-shaft clockwise, you should get six "pops" of nearly the same tone as you rotate the assembly, the faster you can spin it the better, if one or more sound dull like a thud rather than a pop you probably have seal issues. Im guessing the engine in your car now has carbon build up which causes all kind of headaches, a rebuild wouldn't be a bad idea and the experience is almost required if you own one of these cars.
There is no intake or exhuast on the spare motor i have turned it over buy hand and it just spun almost freely no popping no nothing
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