Seppuku

It was posted up in gen d in a topic called cool avatar or something like that. I just snagged it.

pengaru

why not just rebuild your NA motor, street port it, get hardened stationary gears, do some oil modifications and such, then just make a bad little NA with some weight reductions? Would be cheaper than doing a TurboII swap. And after that just concentrate on improving the suspension, get some light wheels and tires...



There are plenty of modifications desirable on both NA and TurboII's, like the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate, suspension, wheels/tires, weight reductions, electric fan, porting, PS, AC, and emissions removal... SS oil cooler lines, aluminum radiator, fuel system (this one is alot more elaborate on the TurboII's too)...



choosing to swap in stock TurboII components FIRST will just add a bunch of time to your buildup, and increase the overall cost, if you want to do the above modifications also (most of which you are probably interested in)



If you just rebuild the NA and port it, you can keep your ECU, and your trans etc. And move on to the rest of the things and in the end have a much more complete/refined car. Unless you have tons of cash, and can afford all the mods in addition to FMIC, POV, BOV, jspec + rebuild + port, TurboII trans, driveshaft, rearend and axles... possible turbo rebuild kit or new turbo, TurnboII aftermarket exhaust parts. Which would certainly be a faster car, but the pricetag is much higher. I personally feel one could get a much more refined and better overall performing car going the NA route instead of the TurboII conversion route, for the same amount of money (presuming the amount of money is reasonable and enforces spending limits)



just my $.02



not to mention you're alot more likely to blow up if you go Turbo. Even if you take all the necessary steps, **** happens. injector fails, air in the fuel line (low tank of gas? no, it's not likely that 13 year old fuel gauge isnt accurate ) maybe that used TurboII harness you bought had a bad connection and an injector didnt fire under load, oops.



you get the point i'm sure.

Racer X

Ultimate NAHeres a NA thread for him.

1988RedT2

That's good to know, but it still leaves the question of the mysterious gook in my coolant. I don't know how old the stuff was, but I've never seen coolant look that color. But I guess if it was oil, it would have floated on top of the coolant, and not have settled out like it did.



Where's the best place to buy a jspec? I like the idea of having a spare engine just laying around for when this one blows. Oh wait, I'm only drag racing the car. It'll probably never blow.

j9fd3s

That's good to know, but it still leaves the question of the mysterious gook in my coolant. I don't know how old the stuff was, but I've never seen coolant look that color. But I guess if it was oil, it would have floated on top of the coolant, and not have settled out like it did.



Where's the best place to buy a jspec? I like the idea of having a spare engine just laying around for when this one blows. Oh wait, I'm only drag racing the car. It'll probably never blow. [/quote]

that gook can be a couple of things. its either burned up coolant, or the waterpump seal, bits of the hoses etc. its kind of normal to see black stuff in old coolant



mike

cymfc3s

might also be some stop leak someone put in there at some point in time

Baldy

I want to go this route. After I do what's in my sig (and suspension), I'd like to eventually rebuild the engine in another s4 I have rotting away in my yard, then do a swap. What kind of price tag goes on a d.i.y. rebuild, with street port done elsewhere? I get antsy just thinking about it. I figured if I had an engine that is blow-upable (tii), I would, without a doubt, blow it up.

pengaru

I want to go this route. After I do what's in my sig (and suspension), I'd like to eventually rebuild the engine in another s4 I have rotting away in my yard, then do a swap. What kind of price tag goes on a d.i.y. rebuild, with street port done elsewhere? I get antsy just thinking about it. I figured if I had an engine that is blow-upable (tii), I would, without a doubt, blow it up. [/quote]

Iit depends, if you want someplace to street port your used housings, I'm not sure who will. I believe mazdatrix wants new housings when they do porting. Check out pineapple racing, maybe judge ito can port your housings for you, there are some other web sites you can check out (rx7.com) etc... If you choose to get new housings the cost skyrockets.



It's like $900 already for just rotor kit and gasket set for a 13B from mazdatrix, that gives you all new springs and seals (apex, side, corner, oil etc) and gaskets for the rebuild. Assuming your housings, rotors, eccentric shaft, stationary gears, and bearings are all in good shape... then this would be the cost not including the street porting, presuming you are doing the rebuild yourself. There are also other costs, like supplies, hylomar, tools, cleaning solvents and tools... assembly lube.. it adds up.



In the NA motors when you port them you are basically shifting the power band into higher rpm, so it's a good idea to increase the oil pressure, get hardened stationary gears, and maybe run better apex seals with uprated springs, depending on your budget. You will probably also want to get the rotating assembly balanced. These things all effect high rpm performance and reliability. Without these additional mods you're likely to break prematurely or just not be able to take advantage of the full potential of the porting... stock apex seals start floating ~8.5k, and the stock stationary gears will start twisting past that point too.

Baldy

thanks for the info...that's something to look forward to (that's not sarcasm)