carluch240

just replaced the clutch/flwheel on an fc and it will not engage...

it is an ACT street/strip clutch plate, heavy duty pressure plate, and a 17lb. ACT flywheel...

also, installed are new master and slave cylinders and stainless steel hydro line...

so everything is back together(what a b*tch), pedal is bleed, free-play is adjusted... but the clutch will not engage, it just keeps slipping as bad as the barely-there original disc... no oil or any such fluid soaked the clutch plate...

after removing the plate at the bottom of the bell housing, i can see that the pressure plate engages/disengages from the clutch plate... the problem is that it doesn't create enough pressure to prevent the clutch from slipping, even from turning the flywheel by hand while in first gear.

the slave cylinder appears to be completely compressed so that there is no pressure on the fork fomr the outside...

the only thing i can think of is that the fork may be bent or hte throwout bearing is too far towards the pressure plate...

i really dont want to take this trans out again, but it is becoming more and more apparent that i will have too...

any advice/ideas/words of wisdom...?

7mech

If your pressure plate is moving then your throughout fork is fine and doing its job properly. That was the good news. Now for the bad news. More than likely you put the clutch disc in backwards. Does the car make any wierd noises when started or when the clutch pedal is depresed? If it makes a high pitched squeal then you have installed one of your bearings wrong. If it just won't engage enough then you probably put your clutch disc in backwards. To tell if this is the problem you need to remove the tranny and clutch and look at the disc. The side that faces the pressure plate should have an identifying mark(paint dots or something). If it doesn't have these marks then the easy way to tell is to see which side the spring stick out more on. Stand the disc vertically and look straight down at it. The side that has more of the spring assembly showing/pertruding is the side that goes toward the pressure plate. If you have that side toward the flywheel then the disc won't come in contact with it and won't work properly.

turbovr6

You knoe Mike, when Jon asked me what I thought was wrong, that backwards disk idea did cross my mind, but I never thought that you would have none that, LOL

1Revvin7

Your probably just going to have to yank it out again.

carluch240

trans is down... clutch disc was on correctly(only fits one way-paint dots to the p.p.), throw out bearing is fine... wtf!!!



could the fork be bent? btw, the previous clutch was half disintegrated 5000 miles after the kid bought the car with the clutch acting fine(slightly spongey pedal)

1Revvin7

and the disc and flywheel are dry?

carluch240

and the disc and flywheel are dry?[/quote]

yup, little burn marks on the pp and fly....

1Revvin7

i don't know what to tell ya man. gotta be a bad pp.

carluch240

ok, well the clutch disc and pp are back on, and there seems to be plenty of pressure on the clutch disc now. tried turning the disc with the alignment tool and vise grips and it did not budge. dont really want to put the trans back up only to find that the problem wasnt solved, cause nothing was changed... everything seems to work as it's supposed to while the trans is down.

vosko suggested that the trans might have something to do with it. possible? barely any play in the input shaft of the trans(less than most of our turbos i bet!)...

im dying here!!!

grips56

does the fork pivot on a fulcrum ( ball), if it does and you can unscrew the ball out, put a lock washer on it and screw it back down, this will make the fork engage alot deeper, this happened to my talon,and it worked, good luck...