This past june my father and I put the car in his garage and tryed to problem solve ourselves. We replaced the slave with a rebuilt one from British Victoria, and I bought a brand new line for between the master and slave. After i posted to day I felt brake fluid when I placed my hand under the slave cylinder. I made a decision to drive the car and take some fluid with me. The slave cylinder was 3/4 full when I checked.

Any how I drove the car to work, back home, to a meeting, and then back home again all of which I did after the clutch problem. I did this by only depressing the clutch down to the point where it's free and no farther.

Another interesting thing occured. When I first left the garage every thing was fine. But when I was leaving my job my drivers side blinkers were flashing rapidly and the front was dim but still illumiating. back was bright. Does this occur when a bulb is almost ready to burn out, or could this be a different issue?

why vary the speed? to break in the piston rings?



the other way to break the motor in is just to let it idle for couple hours, boom done

I did that too for three months straight while stupidly trying to figure out the why she would not go into ANY gears. I think its far to say that once the 1000 miles ore on it it will have been well broken in.

This sites author has a very different aproach to engine break-in procedures. MotoMan Although his site is about bikes, he still recomends that every engine be broken in in this way. Hmm... Anyone agree with him?

rotary aint got no piston rings

For pistons, yes.

Although the rotary doesn't have rings it does have bearings. The bearings are the reason for the variation in rpm and speed. They need to be seated just like rings. Also one other reason for keeping rpms and speed low is to keep low stress on things like the oiling system and the coolant system which could be low on fluid or have air in the system.

I definitetly wouldn't rev it up untill I was certain everything else was functioning properly(i.e. temps, fliud levels, pumps, sensors, basic tuning adjustments...ect). I can almost guarantee that every motor/vehicle goes through some kind of high(redline) rpm dyno testing before it leaves the plant. If something is weak or improperly installed, no amount of "easy" running will make it better(hence the name "break-in"). If it doesn't break during break-in, then every thing was done right.



I don't think the point about the bearings needing to "seat" is valid. The only time you can get away with very mild bearing contact is on startup. Once the system is running, any contact would result in a serious problem. After serveral miles(much more than required for normal break-in) the bearings should still look almost the same as when they were put in, with maybe a few spots where metal particles have embedded into the babbit layer. I can see where the high rpm break-in could maybe be even more beneficial for a rotary engine than its piston counterparts. The reason being that the rotors are always spining 1/3 of the e-shaft. 8000 rpm is really 2666.67 rotor rpm. But then again, I'm just a dumby with crazy notions trying to learn, so please don't be to hard on me if you think I'm off my rocker. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/tongue.png

interesting you mention that. Ford's $250,000 supercar, GT40. Lef tthe factory, and the assembly line, and made it into people's driveways with the wrong size crankshaft.......you were saying about dyno testing at high rpms? youd think theyd find that huh?



kevin.

Thank you for enlightening me. I am too naive sometimes. I guess in a perfect world every engine made would be properly tested before leaving the plant. I did find this however... Iconics It claims a certain Ford engine plant in Dearborn, Mich. tests 100% of its 4 & 6 cylinder engines with their testing system...yeah, sure they do...