for early this afternoon/ late morning I need to know if a strech of 15 to 20 high way miles will hurt a fresh rebuild. Cause thats the only way I can for-see taking her home on her first offical drive with me behind the wheel. thats exluding the machanic who worked on the car at the shop, he had to test the new brake calipers, the old ones were completely seized up. back to the point.



If it makes any difference I will NOT exceed the 65mph speed limit for the sake of the rebuild of course.



I can garantee I'll get a little turned around if I go any other way since I've never taken the scenic route to the shop. And I'll be on a slightly tight shedule that really doesn't leave more then 15 minutes of lost/ confusion time. Since I'll be needing to get to work, which where I'll be driving her (the car) to. And the other main way has so many confusing backroad detours for the rte 300 way. I've seen locals get messed up casuse of the unclear manner that the detour signs were placed. I don't mean to rip on the road crew but, the road crew wasn't thinking straight on this one .



thanks in advance for the input.

i think you should be okay.. just do the whole warming up of the car first, make sure all the fluids are there.. and then take it slow.. build up speed slowly and get it to 65.. you should be fine.. maybe try not revvin over 3k or even 2.5 k if possible..

the recomendations for breaking in an engine are as follows:



keep the rpms under 4000, and throttle under about 50% for about 600-1000miles

ok, yah I'll take it slow like. It will be like being on a normal 55mph road I'll just keep my 4 ways on till up to speed so that the other drivers get the idea. Plus I'll let it warm up.

Dont be so paranoid.



Just dont go running WOT and you will be just fine

Yea, vary engine speed too if you can...while keeping it below 4K...so swtich between 5th and 4th gear...just keep it on the move for the most part. It's recommended to not maintain a constant engine RPM for a long period of time on a new engine.. but I think you'll be just fine..your not going from VA to TX on a new engine,lol..

Not according to vosko

thanks all. Shes home home now. Everything went redictuloulsy smooth at the insurance place and the dmv. So I had more time work with. I varied 4th and 5th and once I got off the exit I took the back roads which gave me no choice but to vary between 3rd and 4th.



One problem to report though. The clutch stuck to the floor once. Couldn't use my foot to get it back up so, I pulled over and pulled it up with my hand. Then I tested it with my foot. it came half way up twice then then returned to normal. I was having a bit of trouble before with the clutch slave cylinder, so the machanic will take a look at it when I go to get it inspected.

break it in with a burnout, thats the best way.





no im joking, listen to everyone's suggestions. vary rpms, keep under 4k, no WOT preferably around 50%, etc.



kevin.

your clutch problem sounds like the slave cylinder or clutch hose problem. Check your clutch fluid and make sure its full. ive had that happen to me 3 times already. i finally changed out the slave and master cylinder and hose. I bet you are running low on fluid that since you jsut got a rebuild and it wasnt filled up like its supposted to be.

This past june my father and I put the car in his garage and tryed to problem solve ourselves. We replaced the slave with a rebuilt one from British Victoria, and I bought a brand new line for between the master and slave. After i posted to day I felt brake fluid when I placed my hand under the slave cylinder. I made a decision to drive the car and take some fluid with me. The slave cylinder was 3/4 full when I checked.

Any how I drove the car to work, back home, to a meeting, and then back home again all of which I did after the clutch problem. I did this by only depressing the clutch down to the point where it's free and no farther.

Another interesting thing occured. When I first left the garage every thing was fine. But when I was leaving my job my drivers side blinkers were flashing rapidly and the front was dim but still illumiating. back was bright. Does this occur when a bulb is almost ready to burn out, or could this be a different issue?

why vary the speed? to break in the piston rings?



the other way to break the motor in is just to let it idle for couple hours, boom done

I did that too for three months straight while stupidly trying to figure out the why she would not go into ANY gears. I think its far to say that once the 1000 miles ore on it it will have been well broken in.

This sites author has a very different aproach to engine break-in procedures. MotoMan Although his site is about bikes, he still recomends that every engine be broken in in this way. Hmm... Anyone agree with him?

rotary aint got no piston rings

For pistons, yes.

Although the rotary doesn't have rings it does have bearings. The bearings are the reason for the variation in rpm and speed. They need to be seated just like rings. Also one other reason for keeping rpms and speed low is to keep low stress on things like the oiling system and the coolant system which could be low on fluid or have air in the system.

I definitetly wouldn't rev it up untill I was certain everything else was functioning properly(i.e. temps, fliud levels, pumps, sensors, basic tuning adjustments...ect). I can almost guarantee that every motor/vehicle goes through some kind of high(redline) rpm dyno testing before it leaves the plant. If something is weak or improperly installed, no amount of "easy" running will make it better(hence the name "break-in"). If it doesn't break during break-in, then every thing was done right.



I don't think the point about the bearings needing to "seat" is valid. The only time you can get away with very mild bearing contact is on startup. Once the system is running, any contact would result in a serious problem. After serveral miles(much more than required for normal break-in) the bearings should still look almost the same as when they were put in, with maybe a few spots where metal particles have embedded into the babbit layer. I can see where the high rpm break-in could maybe be even more beneficial for a rotary engine than its piston counterparts. The reason being that the rotors are always spining 1/3 of the e-shaft. 8000 rpm is really 2666.67 rotor rpm. But then again, I'm just a dumby with crazy notions trying to learn, so please don't be to hard on me if you think I'm off my rocker. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/tongue.png

interesting you mention that. Ford's $250,000 supercar, GT40. Lef tthe factory, and the assembly line, and made it into people's driveways with the wrong size crankshaft.......you were saying about dyno testing at high rpms? youd think theyd find that huh?



kevin.

Thank you for enlightening me. I am too naive sometimes. I guess in a perfect world every engine made would be properly tested before leaving the plant. I did find this however... Iconics It claims a certain Ford engine plant in Dearborn, Mich. tests 100% of its 4 & 6 cylinder engines with their testing system...yeah, sure they do...

testing systems probably crank the motor 1 complete revolution.



kevin.

Clutch MASTER cylinder is bad. I'm 100% certain.

,

Ohh, now I want to know what what he said.

You are right its the master cylinder. I was waiting for someone to correct me. I check it all the time. Carry a bottle of brake fluid in the handy bin behind the seat.

i said the same thing as jspec..then noticed he said it and was like "ohh, technical double post"



kevin.