ColinRX7

Yeah it's a 20 year old motor, a little leak is expected.



I would tear off the front cover, and oil pan, just to reseal them and inspect the front cover stack for signs of wear and check the oil pump chain tension. Replace the front cover O-Ring (since they can fail).



Upon reassembly put it together using a thermopellet as a oil thermostat replacement (give me your address and I'll ship you one), since the oil thermostat can fail and cause serious damage to the motor.



Maybe replace the clutch since you have it apart already, clean up the sensors like you mentioned, maybe have the injectors cleaned.



Catalytic converter technology has been refined, I would ditch everything (rats nest, air pump, etc) and just leave the EGR and get a quality new catalytic converter. Remember, the cat will be 20 years NEWER and better than what was there. It should pass emissions with an EGR system and a new cat, and a quality tune up.



Go new spark plugs (and wires if neccessary), and reground your battery to chassis/coils by stripping the paint off your leading coil mount on the body, cleaning the surface in the same area on the leading coil mount, and adding a ground strap from negative to that location. Then clean the ground up on the trailing coilpack, and maybe add one for the ECU under the passenger side floor panel.





Just some idea-rs

j9fd3s

few things...



the center runners stay clean, because the secondary injectors are always firing, and the intake manifold design "ping pongs" the charge back and forth, the fuel keeps it clean. the outer runners, secondary fuel injectors are only on under load over 3800rpms, the rest of the time its only ping ponging leftover stuff.



2 these engines leak when they get old, actually any 20 year old engine you pull from any car will be oily on the bottom.



emissions: the air pump and air control valve are the KEY emissions parts. the egr does nothing. the cat is important, but it needs the air pump and ACV WORKING to pass smog.



i'd also have the injectors cleaned, and also clean all the grounds and stuff.

gonetomorrow

Thanks. A plan is shaping up but I have a few questions.



First, I was going to have the injectors cleaned and there's a place near by in CT that does it, Marren Fuel Injection.



I hear you on the front cover and pan but what is the "front cover stack?" I'll hit you up for the thermopellet (after I look it up) when I get that far. Hate have one and then have the project get side tracked.



I'll read up on the emissions section of the manual. Perhaps keep the air pump and air control valve, egr and new cat. I suppose I'd have to have an extension welded to the cat or perhaps the aftermarket provides one. I know there are threads on rat nest removal and will read up on it but how much of that rat nest is part of the air pump and acv system. At first glance it looks pretty remote, though I was just pulling off vaccum lines and haven't traced where they were going. More stuff to research.



Oh, and I was joking about the oil grime. I know it's a twenty year old motor.



Thanks for the imput. Can't wait to find some more time to get at it.

ColinRX7

I think I am underestimating EGR design today versus 20 years ago..

j9fd3s

well due to the port overlap and the slow speeds, the rotary already has a lot of egr at low rpms, something like 60%, that teeny little valve on top of the engine doesnt do anything. in fact too much exhaust gas in there, is why the engine misifres, particularly the BP and PP engines. so mazda added the air pump, and has it blowing into the exhaust ports. this actually helps low load ignitability. i recently re read the mazda book 'rotary engine'



http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/files/manu...mamoto-1981.pdf



a normal piston engine is different....

ColinRX7

I've love to try a no emissions, updated EFI rotary engine with a modern cat against an emissions test.



I can see higher hydrocarbon count from burning the oil, but it might be within range.

pvillknight7

I passed with my 87 TII. No emission equipment except a 3" cat from a truck. No air pump. No air line on the cat. They let me do the idle test where you idle test where you hold your foot on the gas and keep the engine at a certain rpm for 30 sec. Passed with 9ppm HC (MD Standard is 220ppm) and 0.00pct CO (MD standard 1.20pct) NOx was recorded as N/A. I ran 1/4 tank of 93 octane with a bottle of gas line antifreeze which is basically denatured alcohol and I pulled fuel from the vacuum portions of my Haltech E6K map from 1k-3.5k rpm. My WBO2 read about 16:1 afr during the test. Reset my fuel curve after the test and refilled my tank and added premix. I'm set for 2 years. The cat lasted about 2000 miles before it broke apart inside. It was so clogged I couldn't go faster than 50mph. Now I'm running 312 SS from the turbo to my RB "y" pipe. Love it.

fc3s4utnv

HAHAHA... when they are old, mine started leaking about 6 months after it was built.

ColinRX7

pvillknight7 - interesting!





Now that you mention it I'm not surprised about the cat being destroyed...



But I knew you could pull it off with the right steps!