Baldy

Ok, history of my brakes: did 5-lug swap, bled brakes, replaced booster/mc/p-valve, bled brakes, replaced mc (it leaked) with new, bled brakes, fluid leaked from where mc met reservoir, applied marine sealant, rear caliper leaked, replaced, bled from that location only



ok, now my pedal still goes down quite a ways until pressure is felt. I tried turning the adjustment nut on the shaft that goes from the pedal to the booster, but the wrench started to round out the corners, so I stopped. I tried this with the engine off, then with the engine on (so there was vacuum at the booster). What do I have to do to get the slack out?

phinsup

When you had fluid leaking at the reservoir, where exactly was the leak? You can't really seal a hydraulic system with sealant, or was it not part of the pressure system?



Also, when you pump them, say right now, does it seem to build up more pressure or does the peddle pressure stay the same?

Baldy

Fluid looked like it was coming out where the stems of the reservoir met the rubber gromets (the rubber was new with the MC). Then after applying sealant there, fluid seemed to be coming out between the rubber gromets and the metal of the MC. Since this thing was new, I didn't know what else to do, and I thought that that portion was not part of the pressure system.



When the engine is on, it does not build up pressure when pumped, the pressure comes on at the same point with every pump. And I've been checking my fluid level, it hasn't moved since I installed the caliper. If the level has changed, it's been so little in a week that I can't notice.



Next time I'm in my car, I'll pump it just in case I've been fooling myself. That is, if I can get the thing started.

onelife2stories

im new to the forum



i have the same problem, this is why i got a name for this forum. i would also appreciate any advice



thanks

teknics

you might still have a bad master cylinder leaking internally, even tho it's new it doesnt mean it cant be broken, we get tons of broken "new" parts from manufacturers.



an internal leak would cause no fluid loss but a soft or spongy pedal. i think with an internal leak tho if you pump it the pressure should build.



kevin.

Baldy

It tried it again yesterday. Sitting at a red light, flat land so I wouldn't roll. I pumped the brakes repeatedly, never built pressure. And I know what that feels like, as you might guess from the "brake history." Thanks for the help, keep it coming.



could any of this be booster related?





oh, and during the pumping, my idle kept fluctuating by ~300rpm, guess I need to check out my BAC...

Baldy

anybody? what would you do? I guess I could always take it to a brake shop, but I know as soon as I do, someone will tell me how I could've fixed it.

phinsup

That's bizarre, you've replaced the mastercylinder right?



My Jeep did that when the mastercylinder was toast, wouldn't build pressure, well actually it would barely stop at all.

Nan da yo!

It wouldn't be the booster, cuz then it would just be hard to press down and then easy. I looked in the Haynes manual and it said either 1. Partial brake system failure (???) 2. Not enough fluid in the MS or 3. Air trapped in the system



Now you said that you already did steps 1 and 2. So could it be your actual MS? Or maybe the problem lies in your caliper cylinders? I dunno, thats weird since all of your fluid is still there. Do you have problems braking at all once the pedal actually activates the brakes?

Nan da yo!

Finally found my FSM, it says that its 1.improper adjustment of pedal play 2. worn of abnormal wear of pads. How are your brake pads?