Ok, history of my brakes: did 5-lug swap, bled brakes, replaced booster/mc/p-valve, bled brakes, replaced mc (it leaked) with new, bled brakes, fluid leaked from where mc met reservoir, applied marine sealant, rear caliper leaked, replaced, bled from that location only
ok, now my pedal still goes down quite a ways until pressure is felt. I tried turning the adjustment nut on the shaft that goes from the pedal to the booster, but the wrench started to round out the corners, so I stopped. I tried this with the engine off, then with the engine on (so there was vacuum at the booster). What do I have to do to get the slack out? |
When you had fluid leaking at the reservoir, where exactly was the leak? You can't really seal a hydraulic system with sealant, or was it not part of the pressure system?
Also, when you pump them, say right now, does it seem to build up more pressure or does the peddle pressure stay the same? |
Originally Posted by phinsup' date='Apr 27 2004, 02:45 PM
When you had fluid leaking at the reservoir, where exactly was the leak? You can't really seal a hydraulic system with sealant, or was it not part of the pressure system?
Also, when you pump them, say right now, does it seem to build up more pressure or does the peddle pressure stay the same? When the engine is on, it does not build up pressure when pumped, the pressure comes on at the same point with every pump. And I've been checking my fluid level, it hasn't moved since I installed the caliper. If the level has changed, it's been so little in a week that I can't notice. Next time I'm in my car, I'll pump it just in case I've been fooling myself. That is, if I can get the thing started. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif |
im new to the forum
i have the same problem, this is why i got a name for this forum. i would also appreciate any advice thanks |
you might still have a bad master cylinder leaking internally, even tho it's new it doesnt mean it cant be broken, we get tons of broken "new" parts from manufacturers.
an internal leak would cause no fluid loss but a soft or spongy pedal. i think with an internal leak tho if you pump it the pressure should build. kevin. |
It tried it again yesterday. Sitting at a red light, flat land so I wouldn't roll. I pumped the brakes repeatedly, never built pressure. And I know what that feels like, as you might guess from the "brake history." Thanks for the help, keep it coming.
could any of this be booster related? oh, and during the pumping, my idle kept fluctuating by ~300rpm, guess I need to check out my BAC... |
anybody? what would you do? I guess I could always take it to a brake shop, but I know as soon as I do, someone will tell me how I could've fixed it. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png
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Originally Posted by Baldy' date='Apr 28 2004, 05:38 AM
It tried it again yesterday. Sitting at a red light, flat land so I wouldn't roll. I pumped the brakes repeatedly, never built pressure. And I know what that feels like, as you might guess from the "brake history." Thanks for the help, keep it coming.
could any of this be booster related? oh, and during the pumping, my idle kept fluctuating by ~300rpm, guess I need to check out my BAC... My Jeep did that when the mastercylinder was toast, wouldn't build pressure, well actually it would barely stop at all. |
It wouldn't be the booster, cuz then it would just be hard to press down and then easy. I looked in the Haynes manual and it said either 1. Partial brake system failure (???) 2. Not enough fluid in the MS or 3. Air trapped in the system
Now you said that you already did steps 1 and 2. So could it be your actual MS? Or maybe the problem lies in your caliper cylinders? I dunno, thats weird since all of your fluid is still there. Do you have problems braking at all once the pedal actually activates the brakes? |
Finally found my FSM, it says that its 1.improper adjustment of pedal play 2. worn of abnormal wear of pads. How are your brake pads?
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Pads are almost brand new. Once I hit pressure, they stop great, I could lock up all 4 wheels if I want. Maybe I just need to bleed everything again. I'd hate to round off that adjustment nut for the pedal freeplay.
Or maybe I was looking at the manual wrong. Do I need to loosen something before I do the adjustment? I thought that was only for the brake light switch adjustment, but I'm wondering if I misunderstood it. |
" Loosen the booster pushrod locknut and turn the pushrod until the desired pedal height is attained. Now that the pedal height is set, turn the pushrod (the brake booster pushrod) until the freeplay is within the range listed (4-7 mm)."
Did you loosen the brake light locknut and the booster locknut. It sounds like a stupid question, but theres a nut in front of and behind the pedal. After you loosen the rear one i guess you have to toggle the rod until you reach the desired freeplay. Maybe the rod is too far foward? Good luck! |
You must prime the master cylinder before use and installation. I would check for trapped air in the calipers especially the rears.
If that does't work. I would get another master cylinder, I have seen new parts be bad the first time. C |
Originally Posted by Nan da yo!' date='Apr 30 2004, 06:53 PM
" Loosen the booster pushrod locknut and turn the pushrod until the desired pedal height is attained. Now that the pedal height is set, turn the pushrod (the brake booster pushrod) until the freeplay is within the range listed (4-7 mm)."
Did you loosen the brake light locknut and the booster locknut. It sounds like a stupid question, but theres a nut in front of and behind the pedal. After you loosen the rear one i guess you have to toggle the rod until you reach the desired freeplay. Maybe the rod is too far foward? Good luck! You must prime the master cylinder before use and installation. I would check for trapped air in the calipers especially the rears. I did that, and bled the brakes a couple times after that. After installing the new caliper, I bled from the lower bleed point on that caliper. I'm pretty sure I bled everything correctly, and excessively. Oh, and I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and remove the reservoir. I noticed today that the level had dropped a tad, so I'm sure it's still leaking. There very well could be a crack in the reservoir somewhere, I'm sure it would be hard to see when installed. So I may have to replace it, and bleed the whole system again. My wife's right leg is getting buffed! |
One other thing to check. I have seen many people miss this. There are 2 bleeders on the rear caliper. You have to bleed both to get proper pedal feel.
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Well? Did you adjust that rear rod?
I don't think its a bleeding problem. If it was wouldn't there be no pressure and then it would build up with consecutive pumps? |
Originally Posted by Nan da yo!' date='May 5 2004, 02:35 AM
Well? Did you adjust that rear rod?
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Can't blame ya... gas is googly moogly expensive.
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