i just finish putting together my motor and its a s4 turbo2 motor bridge ported with 9.4 compression it in a s5 chassi and i was just wondering how many of you have done this ...and what is your set up....what injectors are you using and how do you guys think i should tune it or what i should do...i mean i just want it to be quick and i want to kill some hondas(b18's).....i was thinking of using a safc and the 550cc injectors with a 3rd gen fuel pump. and of course 3" exhuast with headers... but i wana know what you guys think. ....please dont tell me that bridge ports are over rated cuz i really dont wana hear that

550cc injectors? and you want to tune a bridgeport with an safc?



WOW.



i cant even make stuff like this up.



kevin.

s4 non turbo rotors in a bridgeport https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif

im not trying to be an ******* but if you think your gonna get by with 550 injectors and an fd fuel pump you have completely No idea what you are "trying" to get into...

no way in hell an fd fuel pump is enough as well as 550's.<---a friend of mine witha bp-t is running 720 primaries and 1680 secondaries

I VERy highly suggest you contact someone such as BDC who can help you with your setup

oh and you dont mention what turbo you wanna use? i really hope you didint plan on using the stocker but you probably did https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.gif

i think you need to get a stock engine in their and work with that.

you have absolutely no CLUE what your doing.-

and ive never personally done a bp turbo but i personally know people who have and their setups and i can confidently say you need a LOT of help.

and if your Only goal is to be b18's you dont need anything Near a bp-t

your setup makes no sense to me https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/happy.gif

if you wanted to run a bridgeport n/a you would use s5 n/a rotors.

if you wanted to run a bridgeport turbo you would use turbo rotors.

YOU used s4 n/a rotors https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif

all i can say is contact BDC and ask for some advice.

He'd probably tell you to do what i said earlier, just get a stocker in their and work with that for now.

you are not ready for a bridgeport because you do not realize what you are doing and the supporting mods needed to Correctly utilize its full potential.

oh and yeah you didnt say if/what turbo you'd be using.

i hope not a stocker because guess what... a true full bridgeport turbo would utilize a VerYlarge turbo (T66 or above) as a matter a fact a good friend of mine who helped build my engine has a fbp w/ a full bridge utilizing a BB T66 and was told by Jim Mederer @ Racing Beat it was too SMALL https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.gif

so think about it....

sorry, thats my favorite part....



some one help me think of the funniest way possible to ask this guy how hard it was to bolt that turbo to those headers, https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif

i think he wants to run it non turbo. 4 port block?



550/550 with an fd fuel pump should be enough fuel, safc isnt optimal, but i should run

SAFC=band aid

IM TRYING TO GO ALL MOTOR

WOW YOUR BEING A COMPLETE ASSWHOLE ...DUDE YOU NEED TO SHUT THE **** UP....IF YOU DINT NOTICE I WAS ASKING FOR ADVISE BITCH.....

THANK YOU MAN ... YOU UNDERSTAND....YES THATS WHAT I MEAN ITS AN S4 ....T2 PLATES WITH 9.4 COMPRESSION .....AND IM USING 550CC INJECTORS

I USED TH3 S4 ROTOR BECAUSE THATS WHAT I HAD AT HAND AND I DINT WANA CHANGE EVERY THING...PLUS I WAS TRYING TO ASK FOR ADVISE IN THE PROPER TO GET WAY A NA BP SETUP RUNNING ...AND DUDE , I THINK PEOPLE HATE ROTORY GUYS LIKE US BECAUSE OF PEOPLE LIKE YOU

STOP YELLING ALL THE TIME!!!!!



Jeebus.

IM NOT YELLING THE CAP LOCK KEY BROKEN

what do you mean safc isnt optional....you dont think i should an safc.....i should i try something different

With what you want to do a standalone is the only way to go.

yea just like the car you just blew up a few weeks ago, with this setup you ALSO NEED A STANDALONE...otherwise your motor will again last 2 weeks... maybe.



kevin.

O-P-T-I-M-A-L not optional.



yes i think you should run a stand alone, but you should be able to get it to run ok with the s-afc

"I THINK PEOPLE HATE ROTORY GUYS LIKE US BECAUSE OF PEOPLE LIKE YOU"



well i think the Rotary Engine/ Rx7's have a bad reputation because People Like YOU keep blowing them up left and right or dont get good power results because you dont know what your doing and then blame it on the engine/car itself



if you think your gonna do what you wanna do with an safc you deserve whats gonna happen to you...





you asked for advice and i gave it, then When i give you Honest advice you take it personally and call me an *******?



if your not doing your setup the RIght way then its been done the Wrong Way plain and simple, you wanna take shortcuts with your engine & car fine. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/unsure.gif



but dont come on the forum whining when your engine fails do deliver as expected IF it delivers anything at all with the setup you plan on.



the truth hurts dont it.



learn to take some honest criticism and use it to help yourself. if You dont think BDC could help you with your setup and if you dont think BDC is more knowledgable then You (AND I ) when it comes to Bridgeporting then your not only ignorant but delusional.



but hey, you wanna go on with your band aid bridgeport setup. be my guest.-



i wish you the best of luck https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif

your plans of a 3" exhaust with headers are not sufficient to maximize power in a BP 13b

you Must use True DUAL Exhaust system like the one RB sells (or you can custom fab of course) to effectively utilize the flow from the bp.

how do i know? I asked Jim Mederer @ Racing Beat thats how. and in case you dont know who JM is, he's been engineering RE's since before both of us were born.



so do it the right way or dont bother cuz if you dont do it the RIGHT way you wont make the power you want.

Your sig pic implies that you are a 'tuner' yet you want an SAFC?

nah true duals loose out because they dont collect. they work on a stock port. the mazda factory, and even racing beat havent run true duals since the early 70's.

umm. ok j9 if Racing Beat hasn't run duals since the early 70's when their weren't even rx7's how exactly did they r&d all the rx7 n/a stuff? answer me that.

all I know is when I talked to JM he told me (just as their website says*) that the collected is for streetable and the road race (dual) is for racing applications.

and i know for a FACT that a true dual system gives more high end power than the single how do i know?

because i have friends with both and have compared both cars and the dual definetly without a doubt had more at the topend.-=

my own .02

but maybe others have had different results.....

http://racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm



i dont know where you got your info j9 but everything you stated is the complete opposite of whats on RB's own website.-

besides the fact it goes against what ive personally experienced but hey .......

http://www.racingbeat.com/gallery/RX3%20Drag.1.jpg



how many exhaust pipes come out of that? 1 or 2?

that is drag racing. drag racing and road racing/circuit racing are two completely different things.

Holy crap, what an awesome pic, look at the lack of shirts! And the beards! The massive hair!

massive hairdos ftw https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

i like all the people covering their ears in the stands

sorry if i came out to sound like an ass too....dint mean too...and yeah my old motor blew up but that was because i was inpatiant ....so true duals is the first thing i should look for i guess..so 3" is no go? i mean racing beat does not make 3" duel na exhuast...i think its like 2" ...i understand you guys think an safc is trash....what do you think of an ultimate emanage....... i really dont wana spend 1500 on a standalone...just for 200 hp

Thats the thing, with a standalone, expect to get more than 200hp.



Look into Megasquirt. They are inexpensive, and work well. Or, since you are S4, Rtek 2.0.



You can get a Haltech or Microtech all day long for under $1k.

I have to agree w/ j9 on the collecting exhaust debate.



I've run both true duals and collected. My personal preference, and the setup i plan to run on my 12A NA big bridge is uncollected until AFTER the presilencers... this should give the best torque at midrange (coming off corners) and not sacrifice too much top end on the straights.



True dual does give the best all out top - but unless your racing at revs above 8K in 4th gear all around the track - who needs that top end. I'm all about the mix of good midrange torque and plenty of top end left before the next turn.







My opinion on the ECU setup - megasquirt for the cost would be your best bet, but you can run the LT8s cheap too (just get a newer model, we've had issues with the older ones not adjusting timing AT ALL)...

check ebay and the forsale forums here frequently individuals sell Haltechs already wired up for rx7's https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif (taken off their own car)



oh, and like the other guy on here said, Done Properly Your Gonna Be making more than 200 hp

the motor is an 88 s4 but the chassi is and 89 s5....i was at the racing beat website and i think the true duel exhuast is meant for a 6 port motor not a bridgy 4 port

back to the collect vs. uncollected

Look at the header for the MFR PERIPHERAL Port and tell me whether its collected or dual...thats right its Dual , now think about it. the PP housings flow way more then conventional rotor housings , so



also i dont think its matters whether your running a 6p or 4p bridges, because as im sure you know the rotor housing exhaust pattern is the same anyways.-0 and regardless you will Never flow more than the diameter of the round tubing on the headers , look @ your exhuast port.-0 my own .02

And where is the powerband of a PP?





Now, where is the average enthusiast RX7 driver going to spend the MAJORITY of his time? 8k+ rpms? Or between 3000-7000?



Maximize the powerband where you are going to spend your most time. If this is a track car that will spend the vast majority of its time at very high RPM then tune your exhaust for that. If its not then mid-rpm power is where you should be tuning for.



BC

the MFR system (from 1979!) is collected. it collects by the rear axle, not by the engine. http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=16422

http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/files/manu...x7_comp_man.pdf



longer the collector the lower and broader the power band



the shorter the higher and peakier the powerband.

first of all if i remember corrrectly the first gen cant do and true dual system due to the placement /size of the stock gas tank.

so using that example sa a comparison doesnt work. the pic of you racing beat exhaust exactly LOOk at the Racing Beatone for the second gen that i posted!!! we are talking about second gens where there IS room for dual muffler exhaust!!!

1st gens cant run dual (stock straight) thru anyways so Of course they are ALL collected!



the guy is driving a 2nd gen! with a Bridgeport engine (not a streetport)

dont forget that.



(not a 1st gen with a streetport, theres a big difference)

http://racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm

cut & pasted from the true dual exhaust stystem for fc. (RB)



Racing Beat offers a true dual exhaust for all models of 1986-92 non-turbo RX-7s. This complete bolt-on system utilizes all of the stock hangers and hanger positions. Although this system can be used on "street" applications, maximum performance benefits will be realized from cars with intake, ECU or porting upgrades





now if You guys wanna argue with racing beat you can call JM and tell him what youve Researched lmao

read it in Their own words.

*notcie where is says for MAXIMUM BENIEFITS with Porting and ECU upgrades!," how much cleared do you need it j9! lmao



have a nice day.

class is dismissed.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/cool.gif

theres plenty of room in a 1st gen for a dual, ive seen a few of em.

Hate to tell you Villian, but you're wrong. For maximum power on a NA bridgeport or a Periport. you want a collected exhaust. A properly setup collected exhuast uses the exhaust pulses to suck the exhaust and scavange out the next pulse. I think in a 2" primary exhaust you want them to collect after 82" or something. On racingbeats website they state that the true dual is only for street port or stock port systems. Pick up Mazda's factory tuning manual from the FB periport days and you'll see they even used a collected exhaust. You're plenty wrong if you don't think a FB cannot run a dual exhaust. You really need to read up on exhaust velocity, scavaging, and flow charictoristics before you go and yell at people.