foopy

Thanks for the feedback mike.



But dammit answers to my questions only lead to more questions. but i guess its the only way to learn.



Synchs are expensive? thas not cool. but i think that would help my gear grinding.



whats the ATF trick?



and why cant i just drop in a turbo engine =( anyone have an extra one btw? i'll take it.



but uh yea, 13ace please give me some feed back with your experience with an engine swap. i really want to make a nice sleeper. but having a N/A makes my sleeper a slow looking car that is slow .....



moving rite along, i'd really appreciate some more info. oh and lastly how much would AN A/C cost to replace? i dont have one. it was taken out for weight reduction. but i dont feel the 25lbs (how much can AC weigh?) of WR is worth sweltering in the 96 degrees of NYC spring weather.

90N/A Rex

ATF Trick



If you wait too long to replace the syncros, you will be replacing the hard parts in your tranny.



As for the AC I don't know how much. Do yourself a favor and get a decent name brand like Four Seasons or AC Delco when you do it. I am sure it is a few hundred dollars for compressor, dryer, orfice and condensor. And retrofit it to R-134 right off the bat.

1Revvin7

it be expensive i know the compressor alone is like $300, u might be able to get one off ebay though, and there are a lot more parts, i know i ripped mine out every bit counts

90N/A Rex

N/A to Turbo Conversion



This should answer most of your engine swap questions.



Mike

foopy

thanks thanks. i got a NEW problem though



This one is really odd. when i put a lot of throttle or when im above 3500 rpm, SOMETIMES my engine will start sputtering. i can hear my exhaust being really jerky, indicating my engine messing up. which then causes my car to jerk. (as if i were tapping the gas pedal) like it skips. it just started to happen, then it goes away, then comes back after i've driven for 15 minutes. i dunno wut it can be. I think it happens when my 5th and 6th ports open up when i aggressively gas, or am at higer rpm. but oddly it only happens after i've driven for 15 minutes or so, not in the beginning.



so i can drive aggressively after i warm up, but after 15 minutes its starts to jerk.



PLEASE HELP!!!!



btw, '87 N/A 120k miles.

foopy

what the heck is a bump start?

foopy

ack, forgot to ask: how do i check break fluid?



I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT CARS!!!

90N/A Rex

Your brake fluid is in the mastercylinder. It is a plastic container with a round cap on it. Make sure the fluid is to the line but not overfull



If you are refering to bump start when doing the ATF trick it is tapping the key on so the rotors spin but doesn't actually start the engine.



About your problem it could be a couple things. The carbon buildup, ignition wires, spark plugs, clogged fuel filter, clogged injector, MAF sensor....etc. Start small like a full tune up with new plugs wires fuel and air filter. Do the ATF trick cause it is pretty much free. Then see if the problem is still there.

Rob x-7

There is a place that sells the OEM addition of A/C for these cars, Mazdaformance.com Yes its formance and performance! A A/c add on kit from them for 89-91 is $499.00, but maybe you can just tell them whats missing. Or try to find a junk yard that has it Thier prices are pretty much what a shop buys the parts for from a dealer.