the injectors are wired right

fuel pump works

the fuel pump is new(verified 2day)

fuel pump relay is good

main relay is good

the afm is hooked up

all vacuums are accounted for

all plugz are pluged

im getting fuel in the lines to the injectors



the car still starts goes up high in idel to about 3k starts falling and then dies. if i keep my foot on the gas during start up it will run about 20 secs. if i start and then take my foot off about 7 secs and patting the gas judt kills it faster.



now i have theory,

my gas gauge does not read, so i took the fuel pump out to check (hince the new fuel pump verification) and almost a full tank. so what controls the gas gauge ? the floater is working and in good shape, is there a fuse, relay, fuseable link, anything for the gauge could that also may control the fuel flow.



its almost as if the car starts but when it fires the injectors stop working. is there a certain fuse or relay just for injectors? i checked my egi fuse and it is still good as far as that goes i just have no more ideas. one thing i did find was a few vac leaks on the air intake, but they are taken care of now.



wits end now

FC= F@#KING COMPLICATED

 

Sounds like you still have vacuum leaks.

 

Sounds kinda like the "Fuel pressure regulator control solenoid" is hooked up wrong... Your issue sounds like a fuel problem for sure!!



I built a engine and forgot to hook up the fuel pressure regulator control solenoid. It would start jump up to like 2500 RPM's and then just die.. It would help the car run a bit longer if I pump the gas a bunch..



I hooked up the vacuum lines and pluged in the connector, Then bam it fired right up and idled...



I have had engines that would still run even with horrible vacuum leaks..

 

Fuel relay could be powering the fuel pump only on startup but not in the run position. Yellow and black relay near the steering column.



Temporarily re-wire it directly to be sure, so you KNOW the pump is running.

 

or take your dash out and check to see if your connection to your cluster is tight it might be loose or disconnected and thats why your gauge isnt working

 

I would just check the fuel pressure with a guage and go from there. As for the guage, just check it according to the fsm and it should be pretty easy to determine whether it's the sender or the guage. Usually tends to be the sender in my experience though.